Might be my fault :-/

So I was leaving work this morning.. As I was just about to get on the highway my transmission does not leave second gear and is tacking out like a bastard.. My first thought was my 2000$ transmission took a **** already?!?!?!.. So I did not get on the highway and I pulled off into a nipple off the road. I smoked a cancer stick and took a deep breath and thought for a second.. What could have happend?.. I take a peep under there and sure enough it's a minor minor leak out the driveshaft housing. Now when I installed this thing I did replace the seal but not that brass bushing in the tailshaft housing. Could this maybe because I would need a new yoke or just that bushing?.. Either way I'm replacing that bushing.. Should I get a new yoke as well?.. Oh and when I put fluid in it and over fill it a half quart it runs fine like it did when I installed it. What gets me tho when I checked it before this happen and I check my fluids everytime I gas up. The dipstick read fine. And yes I did check it in both park and neutral everytime. Pain but still did it. 700r4 350 tbi

My transmission guy told me that tailhousing bushings are not normally replaced in a rebuild. I told him I wanted a brand new one, because if there is any sustained driving with any driveshaft vibration, it would almost HAVE to wear, putting unintended stress on the seal. This is the reason I'm not going to ever recommend 3.73 gears on a stock setup. It causes a 'less than perfect' driveshaft to resonate in the mid-to-high 70 mph range; the range I like to drive on the freeway.

Honestly, I replaced those bushings all the time when I was messing around with 4L60Es and 99% of them never had any appreciable wear.

You have other problems if the car won't leave 2nd gear.

well the problem ended up being a missing pin the plastic gear in the govener. THANK GOD!

Good deal! Glad it was an easy fix!

WagonLover wrote:

well the problem ended up being a missing pin the plastic gear in the govener. THANK GOD!

How were you ever able to diagnose that problem,especially with the many
pieces and components of an automatic? ed

^^^Yeah, what he said.

read up on the tranmission problems and started using my brain and just said let me pull out the govner cause its not much of a problem to do that.. sure enought that plastic gear was just free turning.. cause i would have gears when the tranmission was hot.. so what i read from was that when the govner is hot it does not nessarly need the govner.. weather its true or not it was a lucky score..

The governor controls the upshifts for the conventional transmission. Governor pressure has to overcome the throttle pressure for an upshift to occur. The governor contains a spool valve that is controlled by flyweights which is spun when the vehicle is traveling down the road. The governor has a gear on the end of it which is splined to the output shaft/ tailshaft. If the governor is not spinning it cannot move the spool valve to regulate governor pressure and if there is not an increase in governor pressure to overcome throttle pressure no upshift will occur.

As noted by Wagonlover this type of failure is a fairly easy fix. A lot of times the governor gear will strip out and create the same symptoms. On today's electronically shifted transmissions there is no governor, it has been replaced with a PCS (pressure control solenoid). The PCS is controlled by the vehicle computer to regulate mainline pressure.

Replacing the tailhousing bushing is always recommended when the transmission has logged appreciable mileage. Also, avoid no-name, cheapo oil seals as well.

It's a good idea to closely inspect the yoke for wear and in the very least, using a Scotch-Brite pad, clean up the transition area where it was riding in the seal so that dirt/corrosion do not damage the new one.