Starting the Black & Tan build

if you are that finickity,. then you should be ordering a 4-7 swap cam,.

Interesting, but I thought this wasn't a particularly practical mod on the LT1, and I'm not sure if the gains would justify the cost. I can't recall much from the lost ISSF files about this mod.
Aside from the basic of swapping the injector and plug wires, I'm pretty certain I'd need to get an actual OBD2 tuner (which adds to the initial cost) IOT tune individual cylinders. One of the issues it creates -not sure if anyone has found a workaround- is that by swapping the 4 and 7 injector plugs across the motor, the O2 sensors are reading and controlling 3 cylinders from one bank and 1 from the other. I'm not sure how well the mail order tuners could nail this one.
Being that the 4/7 swap is somehow related to intake design, I'm not sure what the synergy would be like with the Super Ram. I don't think there are many stock intake LT1s running the swap, much less SR intake LT1s.

jasonlachapelle wrote:

Interesting, but I thought this wasn't a particularly practical mod on the LT1, and I'm not sure if the gains would justify the cost. I can't recall much from the lost ISSF files about this mod.
Aside from the basic of swapping the injector and plug wires, I'd pretty certain I'D need to get an actual OBD2 tuner (which adds to the initial cost) IOT tune individual cylinders. One of the issues it creates -not sure if anyone has found a workaround- is that by swapping the 4 and 7 injector plugs across the motor, the O2 sensors are reading and controlling 3 cylinders from one bank and 1 from the other. I'm not sure how well the mail order tuners could nail this one.
Being that the 4/7 swap is somehow related to intake design, I'm not sure what the synergy would be like with the Super Ram. I don't think there are many stock intake LT1s running the swap, much less SR intake LT1s.

well,.. do what you want,. cos you,re gonna anyway,.right? and let me know how it all works out,.whether reality based or not, i,m sure
psychologically the gains will 'feel' stronger??
The 4-7 swap was to help at high rpm intake reversion yada yada,. with a wet intake,.
super rams are dry intakes,.so yes it would not be a practical mod,. neither would low lift cam with high lift rockers,.(as i said all along)
My point reinforced by your first sentence,.neither mod in my opinion being "practical" for your application.

The ISSF is not an Oracle either,.there has been more than one instance of "forward thinking" being proved a waste of time.
The internet will always give you the answers you want,...........if you look long enough.

The LT1 is still just a small block chevy, even if the water does flow 'backwards"

Running higher ratio rockers with a lower lift lobe won't net any SOTP gains. I fail to see how it's impractical. I can get decent intake lift out of a fairly inexpensive regrind or a comp XE lobe. If I were going to run a lobe like the comp XFI, then yes, I'd stick with 1.6 ratio on each side, maybe 1.5 on the exhaust side. I'm not sure I want a lobe that aggressive for a street-only wagon though.

what cam specs would you recommend ?

Recommending a cam is like recommending a sauce,. everyone has different tastes,.

but with your converter, gears,. i would recommend for you to go with a the XFI 268
it has fast lobes, so good springs for sure,.
A custom cam would be better for the big car,.i,d spec 580+ intake, 590+ ex, 260 in 270+ ex
with 112lsa, you,d never know the cam was in there, strong torque,.still be rev happy,.
I don't mind something a little choppier, but you mentioned you were happy with the baby cam you had, so i figure the 268 for you,.max rpm to 6200, pretty safe setup.
The GM hot cam is a very good street cam,. always poohed on by the "guru's" but works really well,.
and these days is easy to buy, and cheap,.



JMHO,.

Nick

3014/3035 lobes
218/224 duration @ 0.050"
.570/.565" lift w/ 1.6 rockers
113 LSA

No doubt that would be a great cam. I already have the beehives needed to run the XFI lobes, but I'm not sure about long-term valve-train reliability. Might be a non-issue with < .600" lift. The DCR is almost bang on 9.1. Tighten the LSA to 111 and that cam is suspiciously similar to Lloyd Elliot's 2nd mildest cam. Do you see any reason not to go with the 3013 intake lobe (214 duration, .565" lift) ?

No doubt the hotcam is plentiful and cheap but the XFI 268 would probably be much better suited.

I installed a large tru-cool auxiliary transmission cooler yesterday to complement the Yank SS converter. The coolant still goes through both in-rad coolers, then into the aux cooler.

The 1st attempt at loading the 94 transmission tables into the 1996 pcm has been unsuccessful, resulting in the '94 trans I bought from Tim still being unable to lockup the TCC.

Just did the BC licence plate mod.  Now that the one time inspection is out of the way, I should be starting the front end rebuild soon, before the turbo regal goes into storage.  

I settled on the colt cams reground stock camshaft.  That will be going in soon too.

I found out the 10" wide oz wheels rub the 2.5"exhaust on the ds because it doesn't have the bend near the shield like the stock ota oops pipes. Rather than spend time and/or money rebending the pipe, I'll put those wheels on Melissa's caprice. I got a "regular"set of oz wheels which will clear with 255 or 245mm tires.

Jason, try changing the TCC apply rate / release rate vs. TPS% tables to 100% / 0% across the board like the '94 tune had, then disable the appropriate TCC PWM solenoid error code.  I used this successfully to get a '94 trans to work in a '95 recently.   Sorry I don't have more detail - PM me and I can look at what I specifically did when I get home tonight.

Joel

Someone pulled a "hit and run" on my wagon, so I need to get take it to the adjustor.

Most likely a high vehicle like a truck: Bent Hood, Bent DS fender, broken clear corner, cracked T84 and scuffed bumper.  No note.

Car was parked on the base.  I always park at the far end of the parking lot to avoid door dings, to the amusement of my coworkers.  I guess it doesn't pay off in the long run.

that sucks

No ****: The car was deemed a total loss. More to follow I guess.

 Sorry Jason.

pix's???????????

Good news: after a lengthy discussion, the third party evaluating the value of my vehicle determined the value was high enough to fix the wagon and not write it off. Pix tomorrow.

A little bit of good news in a lousy situation.

Was there any video surveillance of the comings and goings of base traffic that could be gone through? Seems like there would be cameras everywhere on a military base.

Good luck Jason.

Congrats, buddy. This seemed crazy.

Glad to hear it's getting fixed doesn't sound terrible, just exterior stuff, but still it makes you sick....

I have an appointment on Tuesday to get it fixed. The actual body shop guy said it will be an easy fix and couldn't believe the adjuster wanted to write it off.

I'll have the body shop mix up some extra paint and do a few touch ups on the Caprice at the same time. It needs a bit of love on the hood, roof and front bumper.

Glad to hear they will fix it for you....

Car is fixed. Looks better than it did before the hit and run. They did a great job straightening the hood and fender and the paint looks amazing.

They fixed the rubber molding on the chrome, aligned the headlights and detailed the outside and inside as well. I guess the $300 deductible isn't too bad.

Good news Jason. Pics?

I put the wagon in storage for the "winter" (i.e. rain and wind season). Covered it with a NOAH car cover. from California Car Covers, The cover is well made but it only has one pair of eyelets to tie it down. I will have to have my better half add some next year. The pair of eyelets it does have is well made, with a patch of fabric on the inside to prevent chafing.

I dumped some stabilizer in there so it should fire right up in the spring.

Hope to see some pictures in the spring.

Well, I finally admitted to myself that I will never have time to work on the RMW. I brought it into a local mechanic I know to have the cam/head swap done. I should have it back in the next few weeks.

After pulling it out of storage, I noticed the AC was out of refrigerant, and that the turn signals don't work at all. They have been intermittent since the car got hit (see above), and I seem to have been burning out the small side turn signals (in the cornering lamps) disproportionately frequently. I've gone through 3 since I got hit, in maybe 100 miles. Not too sure where in the wiring to start looking.