Key won't turn in tailgate, can't open glass by pushing button or using key fob

The button on my key fob hasn't worked since I got my '94 Roadmaster Wagon 2 days ago so I'm not too worried about that...but now I can't open the hatch glass and I'm rolling out on a road trip in it in a few days.

I could turn the key but then had trouble getting the key back out the few times I opened it. Now I can't turn the key at all and pushing the button in won't open the hatch glass. I pulled the handle on the gate from the inside and it appears to still open the gate...other than the glass stopping it from going anywhere. I presume my problem is actually the lock mechanism in the gate or is it also the hatch glass lock portion too? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

You may be able to induce it to release by rapping the area just below and right of the button quite firmly with the palm of your hand.

I found the internal wiring of the solenoid was prone to corrosion and age. The connections are crimped rather than soldered. I wrote a repair pictorial here.

Rapping the panel near the solenoid MAY make a temporary connection and allow the solenoid to release. If it doesn't, then your only option is to carefully remove the carpet from the inner door panel and cut a hole in the plastic so you can reach inside the door and release it manually. The carpet can then be reattached to hide your sins.

Before tearing into the solenoid, check that it is getting power and ground. There is a switch to interrupt power when the doors are locked, and another to interrupt power when the car is in gear. Also, if you can hear/see the solenoid apply when you push the button, but the glass still does not release, you probably have a mechanical issue with the release and/or the alignment of the solenoid.

James, call me I have several ideas for you.

So here's the latest:
I manually popped the hatch and when I pulled the rear door cover I found a cut wire, any idea what it might go to? I also think something is wrong with the latch for the glass as it looks like that little plastic arm is supposed to hook into the metal tab where the empty hole is? That looks like a pretty shotty design. I'm going to swing by the dealer today to have them cut me a new key from the computer and see if that makes any difference. I need a spare anyways.

Here's a half-assed pic of the mechanical guts. Are all of the links there?

That broken piece of metal is part of the tab that holds the solenoid mechanism. The screw holding the other half of the tab is supposed to be screwed into that threaded hole in the foreground. The broken wire is the 12v wire to the solenoid. Which begs the question: where the hell is your solenoid? Laying in the bottom of the door? This DID used to work electrically at one time, right?

In the picture the metal looks like someone tried to repair the break at some previous time, and the splice in the wire suggests the same thing. That sucker has had an interesting history! I would try to get a replacement solenoid from a wreckers, unless you can weld that piece back on.

Here's what it's supposed to look like:

That is a pretty husky piece of metal, to break like it did. I wonder why it did.

eagle-co94 wrote:

I also think something is wrong with the latch for the glass as it looks like that little plastic arm is supposed to hook into the metal tab where the empty hole is? That looks like a pretty shotty design. I'm going to swing by the dealer today to have them cut me a new key from the computer and see if that makes any difference. I need a spare anyways.

I forgot to add, the plastic arm does NOT go through the hole. It's where it's supposed to be.

As for the key, if it doesn't turn the lock cylinder is probably corroded tight. Removing it and soaking it in a cup of penetrating oil (or diesel or kerosene) for a few days MIGHT free it up, but probably it will have to be disassembled and cleaned by hand. Good change of breaking something in the process, so I would try the oil first. The problem is we rarely use the key since we have remotes and electric releases, etc.

Mine broke the same exact way. No joke.

X2. When I bought my 94 I found it in the bottom. His is just missing...
I had mine welded for a cold beer and knock on wood, 5 years and 76k later it's still holding.

Lemmie dig around, I may have one in the garage

buickwagon wrote:

eagle-co94 wrote:

I also think something is wrong with the latch for the glass as it looks like that little plastic arm is supposed to hook into the metal tab where the empty hole is? That looks like a pretty shotty design. I'm going to swing by the dealer today to have them cut me a new key from the computer and see if that makes any difference. I need a spare anyways.

I forgot to add, the plastic arm does NOT go through the hole. It's where it's supposed to be.

As for the key, if it doesn't turn the lock cylinder is probably corroded tight. Removing it and soaking it in a cup of penetrating oil (or diesel or kerosene) for a few days MIGHT free it up, but probably it will have to be disassembled and cleaned by hand. Good change of breaking something in the process, so I would try the oil first. The problem is we rarely use the key since we have remotes and electric releases, etc.

The gate lock can be removed by first removing the exterior bezel trim, then drill out the two pop rivets. Unless you are a locksmith or watch maker do not open the lock pin area. It is a pin tumbler bar. The pins move with the key, and they allow the bar to move inward, so that the tumbler will rotate. The bar is usually the problem, because it sticks in the extended position. The best way to fix it is to clean it. Soaking it in a good solvent (alcohol) and blowing the dirt out of it is the best way to accomplish the cleaning. Do not drink the alcohol after using it. Dry lubricant is the way to go with a lock, because it does not trap dirt. If all else fails and you want keyed alike locks, I have a full set of 94-96 roadmaster locks keyed alike (glovebox latch is not compatable with Caprice).

Sprocket, LMK what you find. If I can get a solenoid in place and it will only pop with the fob or dash switch I'll leave it alone for now. Fred, I'll let you know about that matched set of locks as that would be my next route if pulling it and cleaning it doesn't work.

If Sprocket can not find a solenoid, I have one.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

The gate lock can be removed by first removing the exterior bezel trim, then drill out the two pop rivets.

I don't recall drilling out anything to remove the lock cylinder. IIRC, it all came apart from the inside.

Quote :

Unless you are a locksmith or watch maker do not open the lock pin area. It is a pin tumbler bar. The pins move with the key, and they allow the bar to move inward, so that the tumbler will rotate.

It's not for the faint of heart, but it's not that bad either. A clean, well lit workspace and some mechanical ability are all that are really essential. I'm no watchmaker but I've repaired dozens of lock cylinders over the years. Also re-keyed a few locks from the wreckers to fit existing keys. Be observant (or take digital photos if you are getting old and forgetful like me!) and watch out for spring-loaded bits, like the pin sets. Don't force anything, be patient.

Quote :

The bar is usually the problem, because it sticks in the extended position. The best way to fix it is to clean it. Soaking it in a good solvent (alcohol) and blowing the dirt out of it is the best way to accomplish the cleaning.

I'm gonna guess you don't live in the rust belt But you raise a good point. I live in the rust belt so I didn't even consider the possibility of ordinary dirt and dust gumming things up. Around here, if something has seized on a vehicle, it almost always means corrosion. The OP will have to evaluate that aspect himself, and decide if he's dealing with dirt alone or corrosion. Alcohol won't free up bits that have corroded together, particularly dissimilar metals. PB Blaster, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, etc. are all good commercial products that can be used, but generally come in a spray can. (WD-40 is not a great penetrating oil). Diesel and kerosene are surprisingly good penetrants if you can leave the part soak for a few days. Heat aids in the process, but be very careful not to overheat combustible liquids or use an open flame!

Do not drink the alcohol after using it. Dry lubricant is the way to go with a lock, because it does not trap dirt. [/quote]
I agree with you completely that a dry lube is much better. I should have mentioned that as part of the cleaning process, the oil would be removed.

If you take the gate tumbler apart you will have to restake the cover. If you have no idea about what you are doing with it, you might want to leave it alone, it is small and the metal tabs used to stake it are tiny, and easy to break off. The disassembly and reassembly are not too difficult if you understand what you have, and the way it is made. I ruined the first one before I figured it out. If you do not have one that is expendible, and you have not done it before, plan on destroying one in the learning process.

There are a lot of suitable cleaners for the mechanism. Dust, metal filings, and maybe oil should be the only things in the lock. Brake cleaner is another option. It has some pressure behind it, but it is still hard to get it into all of the nooks, and crannies inside of the tumbler. You may have to soak it overnight, then blow it out a few times. The OP lives in Florida, and from what I gather the car is a Florida car.

Of the 5-6 wagon gate locks that I have pulled, all have had two pop-rivets holding them to the gate skin under the bezel. The pop-rivets are easy to remove with a drill. You may have to hold them from spinning, the clamping pressure of the rivets is low.

Moved to Electrical.

But isn't this issue mechanical? The mechanism won't work and the key won't turn.

Ahhh, the trouble with having "sections". You can't win 'em all.
This forum is small enough that it really doesn't matter. I read all of the new threads; doesn't everyone?

Hmm... true. I figured it was 'cause the wire was cut that was stopping the thing from engaging the mechanism?


Ah well. I tried. lololol

Give the Roo a little power and it goes to his head.

UPDATE: I got a popper from Sprocket and it works great! Still can't turn the key but as long as my fob and the switch on the dash work, I am set. I doubt I'd use the key much anyways. Thanks Sprocket! I have been on "vacation" in Orlando the last few days so I finally got a chance to install this afternoon.

Stingroo wrote:

Hmm... true. I figured it was 'cause the wire was cut that was stopping the thing from engaging the mechanism

The problem is kind of both, isn't it? Is there a way to leave a pointer in one category and the actual thread in the other?

Anyway, sounds like the OP is happy with the end result.

jimbeau wrote:

This forum is small enough that it really doesn't matter. I read all of the new threads; doesn't everyone?

A "New Posts" button at the top of every page would be handy. There's one next to the breadcrumb trail on some pages, but not others.