Special Tools Needed to Pull LT1?

It's probably a bad idea in terms of my stress level, but I am considering pulling the engine on my '95 RMW. Why? Well, it has some annoying oil leaks and is filthy. I also have no idea when it last had new plugs, wires etc. I figure it makes sense (sort of) to spend some time on it this summer so that it will then (hopefully) provide me with trouble-free service from fall through spring when I am in school and have no time to do any kind of car work. So, I reckon I'll pull it, clean it, install fresh gaskets, plugs, wires, maybe poke around inside and see what it looks like in there, clean the engine bay, crossmember, and reinstall it.

Do I need any special tools to pull and engine from one of these cars? I have plenty of tools, but if there are specialized things to disconnect fuel lines or take injector out or whatever, I'd like to buy them ahead of time. I've removed and rebuilt several engines before, but all in '60s or '70s Pontiacs.

Thanks for any help.

There are some small fuel line quick disconnect tools, you may also need a waterpump shaft seal installer, if you are changing all the seals, but other than that, it is pretty much bolts and nuts. You can swing the accessories out of the way so you do not have to disconnect them. Remove the radiator.

The only special tool is the fuel line disconnect. A Harbor Freight one works fine.

I just bought one of those little aluminum water pump bullet tools from a fellow on here, thankfully.

As for the fuel line disconnect, are we talking this?
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Or this?
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I can't even tell how they work, never having disconnected a fuel line with anything other than a wrench before.

Also, can the motor be pulled (trans disconnected) with the hood on? Please say yes. I have a hoist and load leveler.

Take the hood off. It's four bolts. Not hard.

Stingroo wrote:

Take the hood off. It's four bolts. Not hard.

It's also, what, 5' wide by 6' deep?  I'm 6'2" and have a decent wingspan but I'm no pterodactyl.  I will most likely being do this solo, so I don't relish the idea of unbolting the hood, steadying it, and then positioning myself to move it without damaging it, my car, or me.

I removed a '77 Grand Prix hood by myself and reinstalled it even, but I was 18, powerful, and stupid.

You push the tool (correct size) into the connector, and pull them apart.

I have removed the hood by myself, and I am only 5'6", Put blankets on the fenders, and a 2X4 across them. You can use another 2X4 to hold the hood open when removing the hinges. there are 6 fasteners holding the hinges to the hood. Two on the sides at the back, and 4 on the bottom. For the install. I like to hook up the struts up first, then put the 2X4 under the hood to hold the front up. Just be careful it does not slip.

Ok, I'm getting the feeling that it's best to take the hood off. I'll see if I can scrounge up my one local car friend to help me. I'll feel better with a second set of eyes and hands so Murphy's Law doesn't have as great a chance of kicking my ass.

I might lean on the members here during this project. A fuel injected Chevy is a far cry from what I cut my teeth on i.e. dead-simple old musclecars.

I believe either tool you list will be fine for the fuel lines. I have the ebay version and it came with two as shown. It should give you up to 8 different sizes if you use it right.

I agree that removing the hood helps a lot. Put a couple of short self tapping bolts into the underside of the hinge. This will be your "memory" for re-aligning your hood. Where are you located, maybe a forum member can help with the hood removal and re-install.

When I replaced my hood, it almost self aligned. If you have the rubber bumpers along the sides of the fenders, they will center the hood. You can bump it back for alignment, and look for the marks the washers left on the hinges. The small screws along the sides of the hood will also align the hood when installed first.

I should update my profile; I'm in sort of west-central Mass, north of Springfield.

Good ideas about the hood hinge reference points. I used to outline the hinges with grease pen or marker, which helped.

Hey Bull.your engine hoist is the perfect tool for removing the hood by yourself.Just use plenty of padding at all contact point and let the hoist do the hard work.

Flasheroo wrote:

Hey Bull.your engine hoist is the perfect tool for removing the hood by yourself.Just use plenty of padding at all contact point and let the hoist do the hard work.

Like with a sling of some kind?

hood doesn't need to come off,.i,ve changed more LT!'s than i care to tell,..

and i sure as hell wouldn't lift one out just for cosmetic reasons,.or to reseal it,.

pull the fans,..

lift it with p/s on,. alt off,.leave the a/c behind, use a couple of bungy's to hold it up,.or a coathanger,.

drop the starter let it hang on a bungy or a coat hanger,.

lift it (motor) to get the rear a/c bracket,.

mark your motor mounts,. they are different,.

bellhousing top bolts are a nuisance, don't forget the trans dipstick pass side,.

trans lines are clipped onto the oil pan too,.

lift it with the exhaust manifolds ,

use a floor jack and some wood to support the trans,.

trans has to come right up to the trans tunnel to give you the height to get it out,.

make sure you chain doesn't crush the fuel rails,.
pulling the intake first makes life easy,.


when you re=install it,. don't pinch any wires between the motor and the trans,.
and remember the trans has to be as high as you can get it,.then lower the two in the hole together,.

i like to put it in with the intake off,. it's easier to manipulate,.and easier to do trans dipstick and top bell bolts,..

but reseal the back intake to block good tho,..

good Luck,.

nick

There are a few members near you. Check the Longroof Locator.

I pulled the exhaust manifolds and had tons of room. Of course I use anti-seize on every thing.
It always comes apart easy. JMHO