How to remove gauge cluster? Worth it to replace lamps?

My odometer is practically invisible at night.

I have my instrument panel pad removed at the moment, because my cabin air temperature sensor was bad (now fixed). I was about to put it together when I said - hey, I bet a few 194 bulbs and my dash would light up like new.

Well, I guess I haven't replaced instrument bulbs in a while because I don't quite know how to do it. So before I break something, now that I have the four screws loose and the cluster somewhat free, I seem to be restrained by the PRNDL cable.

(I read all the gauge cluster posts, and checked the FSM. Apparently everyone else already knows how to do this, haha.)

Is replacing the bulbs a good idea, and if so what's the next step. Thanks for any help.

You probably already know this, but just in case............on the twilight sentinel switch, there is a sliding lever to control the brightness of the dash lights. You'd be surprised how many people don't know this, probably me also, at one time.

Just follow the PRNDL cable, it's probably about 5 inches long. There is a clip at the end of the cable, which clips onto the column. Just open up the clip and slide it off. I've never replaced all the bulbs in any of my cars, but it's 25 years old and probably not a bad idea.

Tom

Aha - thanks. I thought that was a rivet on the end, but it slides right off. It was easier to see once I removed the lower knee-level rectangular pan.

I should have marked where that clip went but I'll figure it out.

Put the trans in park, and align the display in the window. The clip is a lot easier to reinstall when you remove the column hoop.

I was going to suggest marking the spot, but you took it out before I got to post.

Everything is back together. Aligning the indicator was no big deal. Thanks for your help.

The reason I could not see the odometer - the lamp next to it was blue. No idea why. I replaced them all.

PC194 clear were $2 each. Made in China, I thought that was a bit steep. I found the real GE lamps on Amazon for $8. Ultimately I decided to get the thing back together, and have all the same type of bulbs. So I put it together with the China lamps. After testing them and returning one bad one that tested open with my VOM.

I can see all my gauges now, and the odometer too.

Now to see why my rear window solenoid makes a good thunk but does not open the latch . . .

The mounting bracket may be broken. It is a common occurrence.

You are clairvoyant, sir.

It was indeed the bracket. The screw on the right loosened up so the flexing cracked the bracket until eventually the plunger would not engage. I guess you could have guessed that.

A few seconds with the MIG welder and the bracket is back in shape. I put the screws back with loc-tite red. It's ready for the second hundred thousand miles.

Now to find a good used driver's seat to replace the old one that's nearly shot from slide-in-itus.

I have been working on these machines for over 11 years, and have seen a lot of issues.