Spectrum Premium fuel pump

I was looking for the PDF of Joel's fuel pump recalibration and found that Autozone sells the SP128B1H complete sending unit with pump for $132. Rock Auto has the 127B1H for $8 less (plus shipping). Question is, are these reliable and are they the same units with store specific model numbers?

I have decided that it is better to just buy new than to risk rebuilding a 16 year old pump/sending unit. that and from what I have read on ISSF, the new unit fixes the known problems with the stock unit.

Although I can't comment on that one, I can say when I bought the Walbro 255 unit, The plasric mounting cylinder had to be modified along with the vibration sleeve.,

My concern is , are you doing mods that will eventually require more fuel than a stock flowing pump can provide?

My fuel gage is no longer reliable and twice this week the car would not start without first "priming the pump". Tank is full and a new(ish) filter installed. Just wanted to recalibrate the sending unit on a spare pump/sending unit when I found the new one locally.

This is a case of "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure".

I am just curious if the sp127 and sp128 are the same unit with OE PSI and flow rate.

Can't comment on the fuel pump part, but installed their sending unit in the Caddy (had a brand new pump already). Totally cured the fuel gauge inaccuracy problems.

Bill

Biggest thing I discovered (the hard way) is not so much having the gauge accurate when it is full, It's making sure it's accurate when it's says empty.

lakeffect wrote:

Biggest thing I discovered (the hard way) is not so much having the gauge accurate when it is full, It's making sure it's accurate when it's says empty.

I agree, and now my gauge won't go below 1/4. Put in 19.5 gallons with gauge showing 1/4... so I KNOW it is off. Also getting 179 miles to the tank so I'm running through the "usual suspects"

I don't see what's wrong with reconditioning an old sending unit, but $132 isn't a lot of money for it. Buy it, ohm it, and if it's good, throw it in. Remember the key - you want to avoid vibration-induced poor connections.

You can fix it for a coupe of bucks, by putting a variable resistor from radio shack .

Here's the part. 10K-Ohm 15-Turn Cermet Potentiometer/Trimmer

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It gets sliced into your fuel sender line that is running in a harness next to your hood release, and to ground. There's a body ground inches below the bolts for the hood release.

After ward you can dial in your empty tank to zero, but for a margin of error, put in two gallons , THEN dial in Zero.

Krzdimond wrote:

lakeffect wrote:

Biggest thing I discovered (the hard way) is not so much having the gauge accurate when it is full, It's making sure it's accurate when it's says empty.

I agree, and now my gauge won't go below 1/4. Put in 19.5 gallons with gauge showing 1/4... so I KNOW it is off. Also getting 179 miles to the tank so I'm running through the "usual suspects"

Can't agree more. Who cares how long it sits on full. I want to know when its time to feed it before it quits.

Exactly the same problem with the Caddy. New sender fixed the problem.

Bill