Who has a nice 9C1 rubber carpet?

In accepting the fate of my 94 Caprice as a winter rust monster, and dealing with the missing driver's floor footwell, I think that instead of carpet I might want to go with the 9C1 floor cover. Anyone have a decent one that is collecting dust?

Jason.

I have a decent black 9c1 carpet with floor mats

You have the carpet, not the full rubber floor cover, correct?

correct just the black carpet

I need the rubber for the protection!



There you go. Setups don't get better than that. Cue the lols.

There is one in a yard here, and if I recall, it is in nice shape. I won't be able to get to the yard until tomorrow or Friday.

Check it for me. I'd like no holes other than seats, and it needs to be cheap.

Fiberglass carboaard! Cut the carboard to fit and then glass, it's amazing how strong it is and good for about 5-7 years. Biggest issue you have is getting it to set in those temps!

jayoldschool wrote:

Check it for me. I'd like no holes other than seats, and it needs to be cheap.

It may not be expensive, but it will cost you a fair amount for shipping, because it is bulky.

Back in the 90's I picked up a '68 Firebird convertible with holes in the driver side footwell. As an easy, temporary fix prior to welding in new floor pans, I used aluminum roof flashing and self tapping sheet metal screws from the hardware store. Quick and functional.

Sprocket wrote:

Fiberglass carboaard! Cut the carboard to fit and then glass, it's amazing how strong it is and good for about 5-7 years. Biggest issue you have is getting it to set in those temps!

John you sputhern boys think we live in antartica,.when you add catalyst to fibreglass resin,. it sets up regardless of temps,..

And where did you learn the fibreglass cardboard trick from john??

Nick

The fiberglass cardboard "trick" has been around forever.
In my youth I'd use aluminum flashing on the exterior with pop rivets to patch holes, had it halfway up the sides of my '64 Dodge, the sun reflecting off of it would blind people. It's a little thin for floorboards,
some 1/2" CDX plywood plywood with roofing adhesive tar globbed on the back and then smooshed in is what you use for those, as an added bonus it gives gives the interior a nice 1960's big city aroma too.

Al H. wrote:

The fiberglass cardboard "trick" has been around forever.
In my youth I'd use aluminum flashing on the exterior with pop rivets to patch holes, had it halfway up the sides of my '64 Dodge, the sun reflecting off of it would blind people. It's a little thin for floorboards,
some 1/2" CDX plywood plywood with roofing adhesive tar globbed on the back and then smooshed in is what you use for those, as an added bonus it gives gives the interior a nice 1960's big city aroma too.

first off i was specifically asking sprocket,.but thanks for saving him the trouble of replying,.

secondly a little thin as you put it,.would ultimately depend on how thick a piece of cardborad was used and whether it was waxed and wouldn't allow resin to soak in, and how many layers of resin were added etc,. right? I guess if as usual some moron cut the side out of a cereal box and coated it with single coat of resin,. then yes i,d agree it,d be too thin,.

unfortunantly my posts are directed at the guys with enough ambition, and a little common sense,to run with an idea and hopefully put their own twist on it and improve it,.. it,s well known i don't pander to idiots too well, .

and i,m awful tired of hairs getting split on this forum ,. as i,m already bald,.and i,ve none to spare,.

Nick

Have witnessed said missing footwell and even contemplated having Jay cut out the well on Gords 91 before it heads off to the crusher. Suggested he use a piece of aluminum sheet, backed with some roofing "ice shield" and attached it to the floor using some black sealant. That should do him for the winter and he can address a proper repair in the spring.

Jay: Investing in a rubber floor cover now is akin to closing the door after the horses have left. That floor is not going to get any worse over the next 3 months and the normal carpet looks so much better. Just get some Canuck Pneau floor mats to catch the slush.

Last vehicle I had with rubber floors was a 76 Ford pickup. Was handy because you could do an interior detailing with a garden hose and scrub brush.

Bill

Jay where is home for shipping. Tomorrow is the day for the yards.

Fred, I am thinking that shipping will kill it, even if I send it to upstate NY. Hold off for now, and I'll see what I can come up with local.

Thanks, though!
Jason.

If it is in good condition, I may pull it anyway. There are a number of people who would like a good one. It will give me an idea of the shipping costs too.

Ok, keep me posted. We'll probably be in your area when I am in FL in March.

Hi Jason

Saw this, don't know if it meets your needs, but price seemed fair.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=267662


Happy New Year

Tom

jayoldschool wrote:

Fred, I am thinking that shipping will kill it, even if I send it to upstate NY. Hold off for now, and I'll see what I can come up with local.

Thanks, though!
Jason.

I looked at the carpet, and it is not as nice as I remembered. It has 4 major bolt holes on the hump between the seats. It is also in 3 pieces. There is a tear in the driver's side in the rear as well.

NIck, I learned it from my Dad when we fixed all the rust in the 73 Caddy.
I've also used a piece of posterboard as the basis of a home made surfboard fin that made it plainly obvious to me that I needed a few classes in hydro dynamics (but it sure looked cool)

I've been working with fiberglass for probably 25 - 30 years off and on. I have noticed that it does set up a lil slower in 50 degree temps vs 85. I've never explored how low you can go with it and made an obvious bad assumption.

For those not familar: The cardboard is there merely to help it keep it's shape the fiberglass and resin give it it's strength. Also, as Nick mentioned the paper wicks up the resin and becomes watertight if completely covered.

Also used it blend exterior patch panels on cars.....cut out rust, put galvanized backing plate, pop rivet in place and glass over. Sand and fill in holes with body filler sand again, prime, paint, Viola! That was done on my Healey in 1980 and the rust didn't come back until 2010 and still is just some small bubbles.