Charging AC question

Hi,

I bought the little adapter to put R134 in my R12 93RMW.
But not sure where I'm suppose to connect it. The one place that fit is right on top of the AC Clutch.
IS there where I'm suppose to charge the AC?

Thanks.

No. You charge it on the fitting on the accumulator, the big silver can on the passenger side on the firewall. You really shouldn't just put an adapter fitting and fill an R12 system with R134a. Should be evacuated, accumulator replaced, compatible oil added, vacuumed, and refilled.

Juanjo_NY wrote:

But not sure where I'm suppose to connect it. The one place that fit is right on top of the AC Clutch.
IS there where I'm suppose to charge the AC?

On top of the clutch??? The clutch is the bit hanging off the front of the compressor at the fan belt. It spins the compressor when engaged. There is no fitting on the clutch, and if you somehow attached a hose to the clutch you would be in for a world of hurt when it finally engaged.

At the very least, please read This Post. I suggest you review the entire thread, actually.

There should be a blue cap on one of the fittings. It is the low side (red cap is the high side...do not use). If your car has been converted to 134a, the fitting should be a push on, not a screw on. There should also be a placard stating when, and that it was converted. You should also have a gauge to tell you if you have the correct amount of refrigerant in the system. Make sure you flush the air out of the hose before you connect it. Get some knowledge about what you are doing before you start.

UPDATE:

thanks, I put the adapter in that gray cylinder and one of those long cans of 134A, and after few minute the AC clutch was going on and off one second at the time, by the end I had AC blowing cold. NOT super cold and I don't think one can can fill the system, but going to add one more and see if get SUPER COLD!!
Thanks again,

Nope, one can will not fill the system.

Your joy will be short-lived if, for example, the oil has leaked out. Or moisture has leaked in.

Really, consider your can a "proof of concept" -- there are no major leaks or plugged orifices, and the compressor still works. Take the time to do this right and protect the system from mechanical damage. We don't want to see a post from you in the near future that "After putting in 4 cans of Freon, the AC suddenly started making a grinding noise and now it doesn't work anymore."

this is a hot topic,..   

thanks,
actually I just took my daughter to school, 22 miles round trip and the AC was colder than I could handle, even at 70 was still cold enough to put the fan fins pointing away from me.

Don't know if it matters, but I crash into a deer last winter and end-up replacing the radiator and ac-condenser.
Also took the clutch fan off and put an e-fan and added oil and transmission cooler.

Yes, it matters. First, the old condenser held some of your oil charge -- probably around 2 ounces. Second, the system was open at possibly the worst possible time of year, when temperature differences suck air in and out of the system, introducing moisture.

Yes, the system may work for a while, however, the moisture will react with the remaining oil and form acids and internal corrosion. The reduced oil quantity will lead to accelerated compressor wear and premature failure. Don't Ask Me How I Know This (tm).

If you want to keep the system functional, I STRONGLY recommend you recover the refrigerant, change the accumulator (which contains the desiccant), add 6 oz of DEC (Double-end-capped) PAG 150 oil (1 for the replacement condenser, 2 for the new accumulator and 3 for the rest of the system since you switched from R12 to R134a). If you can't get DEC PAG in a 150 weight, you can probably get away with 100, but don't use 46 in a Harrison compressor. Alternatively, you can use Ester oil. Buy the stuff with the UV leak detector already added -- it's only a couple of bucks more.

Then vacuum the system with a proper AC vacuum pump (NOT one of those air-powered venturi pumps). Run the pump for at least 1/2 hour to start. Hold that vacuum, preferably overnight, running the pump occasionally to remove the vapour as it boils out of the oil. Finally, recharge the system with 44 ounces of R-134a.