Door panel info - steering wheels too.

I found a gray RMS at the local pick-n-pull- the steering wheel/airbag was in good shape (horn switch not stuck) and it had a good passenger side door panel which I desperately needed. The driver's side wasn't really any better than what I've got.

I managed to get the door panel off in one piece, which was a very rewarding experience. I like gray since it should be relatively easy to dye it blue to match the rest of the interior, which leads me to-

How hard it it to vinyl-dye these things? I don't care about the carpet color (though I could try peeling off the blue carpet from the old one, I suppose, but doesn't seem worthwhile) The trim is mostly still on the panel, is it easier to remove it and then glue it back on? Steering wheel too. The gray wheel is a bit worn, black is showing through, but in better physical shape than my blue one.

One of the mounts for the door panel clip-things is cracked a bit on the flat-face. I've got plastic weld epoxy, I figure I'd put some on with some fibreglass mat to reinforce it, unless there's a better solution.

The vapor barrier is not sticking anymore, and the duct tape that was holding it on is similarly dry and not sticking anymore. What works for that? RTV?

The window's sliders are both intact, though that window does go up and down really slowly. Should I lube the rails, or go through the process of changing over to the Chevy rollers? (I already have them)

Also, I saw a nice steering wheel from a 1998 Olds, Alero? don't recall now. Though I couldn't get the airbag pad out to check and see if the spline was the same as a 95 B-car. I did look around for some B/D bodies but the wheel in the gray RMS was the best of the ones I could get to. There was a nice Fleetwood there, but the wheel was cut in half. (?!?)
What other wheels fit? I've seen that the Riviera wheels from the same era will also work, but I was thinking in the more generic sense.

Some of the wheels will fit and some will not. Most wheels from 84-98 will bolt up. The question is what you want it to look like.

The vapor barrier can be taped back up. You want to use something that can be removed and replaced in case you have to get back into the door. I think most people just leave them off.

You can clean and grease yours to make them move more freely. I would swap to the rollers if you already have it apart.

If the mount is on the upper part of the panel, it is ABS, and does not work well with anything. If you build the clip up with epoxy and glass mat, it will not work right. Depending on where it is specifically there are a couple of different techniques to fix it. Be more specific on the location, and the material of the panel at that point. The upper and front panel can be repaired with some scrap plastic, and a soldering iron. Keep the profile the same. If you have to repair the lower panel, you can use MEK or MEK replacement. It will melt the plastic together like a model car or airplane kit. You can also add reinforcement to the repair.

You can remove the carpet with a little heat, but be careful with the heat gun.

The SEM paint (it is not a dye, and there is no dye for plastics) works exceptionally well. Clean the surface with a good detergent, and I usually go over the surface with some paint reducer to make sure it is clean. Remove the bezel before painting. It will pry off with some care. There are little pins around the perimeter. It is a lot easier to get the panel to look nice with the bezel off. You can not glue it back on. The screws will hold it in place when you install the strap and insert. You can use your original bezel to keep the color consistant. The steering wheel can also be painted to match. It has been done numerous times. If you do not want to remove the carpet from the door, paint it, and while still wet, use a tooth brush on it. The pile will get a little stiff, so, if you are not going to touch it, you will not notice it.

Here's what you do:  
    1.  Call VinylPro  http://www.vinylpro.com/

    2.  SEM Color Coat #4820 Medium Adriatic Blue. It is a custom mix.

Look at the my signature picture below of my 94 RMW. The console used to be gray.  I've used it for seats and door panels also.  It is a perfect match, not close, perfect!

VinylPro may also suggest you get a few other things like cleaner etc.  I did, job came out great.

Tom

Tom, Thanks for the vinylpro link. I went to my local paint shop yesterday and they quoted me $84 for a pint of custom mixed Dupont Chromabase interior paint! Seemed kinda steep. I'd rather get the SEM anyways as I'm familiar with that product.

Thanks fellas, that's good info as usual. And I think I'll give the re-coloring a try, even though the wife seemed to not care much about the mismatch (gray isn't so horrible with blue, I guess)

Fred - excellent info on the door panel clip retainer issue. The one that's cracked is near the speaker on the bottom half. It's just cracked, not missing. I'm not sure if the bottom is ABS like the top- I would assume so. This plastic weld epoxy stuff seems to stick to it, I may experiment on the old one to see how well it does indeed stick. Chemical welding with MEK is a great idea too.

Reinforcing these things somehow while they're still attached seems potentially worthwhile, since I see what happens on the old one when these things simply break off and you're out of luck.

MalibuSSwagon wrote:

Tom, Thanks for the vinylpro link. I went to my local paint shop yesterday and they quoted me $84 for a pint of custom mixed Dupont Chromabase interior paint! Seemed kinda steep. I'd rather get the SEM anyways as I'm familiar with that product.

Eric these are in spray cans, can't beat SEM. I'm sure you know but, the code for my wagon (LT1 color) is not the same as your's (TBI color). Your's is darker; that code is kicking around this site someplace. Someone will know it.

Tom

lamune wrote:

Reinforcing these things somehow while they're still attached seems potentially worthwhile, since I see what happens on the old one when these things simply break off and you're out of luck.

I reinforce / repair those with a large 3/8 fender washer (maybe 1/2 inch), works great.

Tom

I found the SEM mix sheet on another thread here, found the SEM # for my interior on that sheet. But the guy at the paint shop looked up the color by the OEM code from the SPID.

http://www.semproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/assets/formulas/cc_master_2013.pdf

For some reason the code on my SPID is 20B, but on the sem sheet and the paint guy's dupont system the code is 20BN. just be aware that for some reason they add an "N" on the end of the code. I confirmed this when I looked at another TBI car in the junkyard, it had code "20C"

To find your interior color code -

http://marksautoparts.wordpress.com/2013/01/21/general-motors-service-parts-identification-label-explained/

Tom - where do you put the washer? I assume behind the plastic, then thread the clip in. Otherwise I'd guess you're gluing it on somehow.

How many spray cans of the SEM paint would it take to do a door panel? I'd be surprised if I needed more than one, but I don't know for sure.

I put them on top, have done it many times.  Actually, maybe I have slid them underneath also. It strengthens the split and you would push the "tree" through it.  You would need just a fraction of a spray can.  As you have found out, you have to learn to fix these things, as they are extremely hard to find in decent shape and impossible to find in perfect shape.

tom

Re-did my front door panels here: https://gmlongroof.4umer.com/t3813-maroon-interior-paint-dye?highlight=sem+paint

I like the SEM stuff a lot. Has held up well.

I still yell at my kids and my Dad to NOT slam the doors. Ha!

-Mike

The repairs on the lower portion should be done with MEK or its substitute. You an dissolve some scrap styrene in MEK* and use it as a reinforcement paste. Be careful that you do not build the top of the fastener mount too high, or it could keep the panel away from the door.

The top and front panels need the application of heat and scrap plastic.

It took me almost 2 cans to do a dash. I just bought a can of SEM 4565 today, and the local price has just about doubled in the last year. It was $27 for a 12 oz. spray can this time. A pint of ready to spray SEM is $54, so even with the propellant, it is cheaper to buy the spray can.