ABS problems

OK, here we go again...I have been in my comfort zone for so many years..playing with older cars....these "newer" cars are a different ball game..

My 92 Caprice Classic sets off the ABS alarm. When I checked the OBD system it tells me code 45 and 55. According to the shop manual "LF solenoid valve fault" and "rear wheels solenoid valve fault".

The flow chart in the shop manual finally ends up in replacing the EBCM....any suggestions here?

Thanks,

I'm also more comfortable with older cars, including driving them.
Is there a thread on here somewhere for "ABS Delete"?

If you want, I have the EBCM from my 92 Caprice. I'm deleting the ABS on mine after my engine swap, so it's collecting dust over here... worked great.

Yeah, I would be more than happy to delete the ABS too..some people think they need all the electronics to drive a car. Anyway, no matter what you do, the warning lamp will still come one.

DMV here will not improve of a car with a ABS lamp - so I need to get it fixed.

ABS delete is fairly simple. I have the info to do it on my computer at home (currently at work), so if no one else chimes in before tonight I'll post it here.

Please do...

Norroof:
How are your inspections done?
Of course, I encourage you to strictly obey all laws!

If the ABS lamp is the issue, that would be fairly simple, or at least inexpensive fix.

But if it is throwing codes, and the inspections involve OBD tools, deleting things might not solve your problem.

Here different States have different rules. I don't think my inspector requires OBD prior to model year 1995 where I live, (at least "My Guy" doesn't do one),
and insurance companies used to give breaks for ABS equipped cars, before they figured out it wasn't any safer(again, mine does not).

So my ABS is effectively "Deleted" by virtue of not working.

I'd still like to see a real delete procedure, to just clean all that crap out of my undercarriage, and hopefully eliminate the codes.

If you want/need to fix it, Stingaroo's part is probably the expensive element (I don't know for sure, since I haven't fixed mine).  

I'm afraid all this delete talk has "Jacked" your thread, but I hope someone will jump in and offer help to actually fix ABS.

Okay so....

One solution is to just buy a new set of lines from an 88-90 box Caprice. Bam. Done.

The other is as follows:

What you need:

3/8" brass inverted flare union - Dorman 070670BP x2
3/8-24 brake cross (female threads) - Gates G49314-0306
Flare nuts










Not my pics, but that's what a buddy of mine did.

I haven't touched mine yet - want to pick a line lock first. Might as well do the work once, right?

Stingroo:
How would this impact the ABS Light, or the OBD codes Norroof says he is getting?

No clue, to be perfectly honest. Mine is going to be, well... a bit far from stock when completed.

Thanks,

Perhaps a Moderator should split this thread, so that you can continue helping me, and others, with ABS delete,

but someone expert on ABS can help Norroof get his car inspected.

I plead guilty to throwing it off track in the first place.

Sorry,

802:  DMV here are nazis..and with a ABS lamp glowing I won`t get the car approved. I am still pretty sure Stingroo`s remedy won`t turn off the damn light.
I need to have the car inspected by the state-driven DMV, and with any alarm on the dash they will reject the car.

If you only just want the system to not work, can`t you just remove the fuse?? I guess you guys want to clean up the undercarriage ABS mess too..

Oh yeah, I would never dream of braking any laws...I follow all speed limits, and never inhale when I smoke...

At least nobody here is trying to tell me how unsafe it is to drive a car without ABS..

Norroof wrote:

At least nobody here is trying to tell me how unsafe it is to drive a car without ABS..

ABS is a mixed blessing. It can improve cornering ability under certain circumstances, but it can increase stopping distances under others. Up here, it doesn't have to work, but if it doesn't, the light has to work to let the driver know.

Anyway, back to your problem: as mentioned earlier, it would help to know exactly what their test procedure is. I doubt very much that they are going to scan a 92. There were so many different OBD1 interfaces in those days; each requires it's own expensive tool or adapter and software and ABS usually required a different one -- that is, ABS codes were often not accessible from the ECU interface. That was the driving force behind the OBDII requirement for a common minimum interface.

So, assuming they rely on the dash lights alone, the simplest method to kill the light is to remove the bulb or cut the light green/black wire at pin 29 of the Electronic Brake Control Module (not at pin 11 of the modulator though). Pulling the fuse won't work because fuse 17 runs a few other things, like the check engine light. That would be too obvious.

However, if the inspector is really on the ball, he will notice that the bulb doesn't light in bulb test mode. You might tie the Lt Grn/Blk wire you cut from the harness end to the positive end of a diode. Connect the negative end to the Tan/White wire from the ignition switch. That's the bulb test wire for the brake warning light. Then the ABS warning light will come on in bulb test and go off when the engine starts, approximately simulating normal operation.

(note: The diode would be necessary to prevent the brake warning light from grounding through the modulator circuits, not required if the modulator has been removed, unplugged or disconnected. But the inspector might spot that! )

buickwagon wrote:

However, if the inspector is really on the ball, he will notice that the bulb doesn't light in bulb test mode. You might tie the Lt Grn/Blk wire you cut from the harness end to the positive end of a diode. Connect the negative end to the Tan/White wire from the ignition switch. That's the bulb test wire for the brake warning light. Then the ABS warning light will come on in bulb test and go off when the engine starts, approximately simulating normal operation.

(note: The diode would be necessary to prevent the brake warning light from grounding through the modulator circuits, not required if the modulator has been removed, unplugged or disconnected. But the inspector might spot that! )

Damn. That's some professional avoidance right there - LOL.

Stingroo wrote:

Damn. That's some professional avoidance right there - LOL.

+1 Respect!

buickwagon wrote:

Norroof wrote:

At least nobody here is trying to tell me how unsafe it is to drive a car without ABS..

ABS is a mixed blessing. It can improve cornering ability under certain circumstances, but it can increase stopping distances under others. Up here, it doesn't have to work, but if it doesn't, the light has to work to let the driver know.

Anyway, back to your problem: as mentioned earlier, it would help to know exactly what their test procedure is. I doubt very much that they are going to scan a 92. There were so many different OBD1 interfaces in those days; each requires it's own expensive tool or adapter and software and ABS usually required a different one -- that is, ABS codes were often not accessible from the ECU interface. That was the driving force behind the OBDII requirement for a common minimum interface.

So, assuming they rely on the dash lights alone, the simplest method to kill the light is to remove the bulb or cut the light green/black wire at pin 29 of the Electronic Brake Control Module (not at pin 11 of the modulator though). Pulling the fuse won't work because fuse 17 runs a few other things, like the check engine light. That would be too obvious.

However, if the inspector is really on the ball, he will notice that the bulb doesn't light in bulb test mode. You might tie the Lt Grn/Blk wire you cut from the harness end to the positive end of a diode. Connect the negative end to the Tan/White wire from the ignition switch. That's the bulb test wire for the brake warning light. Then the ABS warning light will come on in bulb test and go off when the engine starts, approximately simulating normal operation.

(note: The diode would be necessary to prevent the brake warning light from grounding through the modulator circuits, not required if the modulator has been removed, unplugged or disconnected. But the inspector might spot that! )

I really don`t need the extra problems ABS involves technically, so cutting green/black wire at pin 29 seems like a great solution. I`m going to try that!

Even if the inspectors are Nazi`s they don`t get into testing the OBD1 system..I am pretty sure that will work!!

So to see if I am following this thread right:

Norroof can try addressing his issues by:
1. Obtain an ECBS from Stingroo and continue attempting a proper fix,
or
2.  Fix his lights using the procedure outlined by Buickwagon

ABS delete can be addressed by:
1. Splicing break lines as in Stingroo's pictures,
and
2. Splicing wires as suggested by BuickWagon


Then I get:
Direct control of my brakes (making my own choice on the safety implications of such control)

No more annoying skittering of the brake pedal during heavy stops

No more annoying warning light from the dash

No one the wiser, except by inspection more detailed than anyone but me should be doing anyway on my OBD1 era car.


Is that about it?

Stingroo wrote:

Damn. That's some professional avoidance right there - LOL.

Yeah, don't buy a used car off that guy, he knows too many tricks.

Actually, for the really pro job, replace the diode with a 555 timer circuit and a ground of it's own so the bulb stays on for 2 or 3 seconds after the engine starts.

Seriously Dwayne,I am impressed.

Buickwagon: I just tried to cut the light green/black wire that runs into the EBCM - and the damned ABS light lit up again.  

It does not light when I start the car, and the car is idling, this is true.  But when driving the car it lights up again. (actually it does blink half a second when I crank it)

Did you mean that the light would not be lit during idling? My impression was that it would turn off the light for good.  

The DMV inspector will test drive the car, so if it comes on during driving, I am just as far as before.

I tried to find out how to remove bulb, but don`t see how that can be done unless I remove the dashpad..

Hmmm. It must be finding enough of a ground through a wheel solenoid valve when you drive. Cut the same wire (light green/black) at the brake pressure modulator.

I cut the wire at the modulator, and that did the trick!!

Buickwagon - you are awesome!!

Many thanks for your great help!

You don't need to remove the dash pad.

Removing the cluster is easy.

Put the car in 1st gear, set the park brake. Tilt the steering column ALL THE WAY DOWN.

Open the glove box. Remove the piece of trim just above it (it clips into place).

Then you can pry (gently) the whole dash face off going forward.

There may be screws along the bottom that hold the portion that covers the steering column. I forget, it's been a long time, but it's very simple and straightforward.

The cluster itself, you'll need to remove a few 7mm bolts from around its perimiter, and one bolt is shared with the radio as well.

Do not forget to disconnect the cable that clips to the bottom of the steering column that works your gear selection indicator. It will break. 100% of the time. Ask me how I know.

Oh.

Didn't see this thread now had a page two.

Welp.

That's fine. Your instructions will live on for those that don't want to cut wires.

A dmv inspector drives the car?

hmm,..

phantom 309 wrote:

A dmv inspector drives the car?

hmm,..

That's what I was thinking.

Glad I live in Florida - LOL

Stingroo wrote:

phantom 309 wrote:

A dmv inspector drives the car?

hmm,..

That's what I was thinking.

Glad I live in Florida - LOL

Yeah, I know...

That is why my second home is.......in Florida..

There are more crazy hoopties in south FL than anywhere else I have been. Took a pic of this gem last week. "There! I fixed it!"