Deep Breath……1996 Roadmaster Wagon Work Done – 122K miles - Pics Down Below

Deep Breath……1996 Roadmaster Wagon Work Done – 122K miles - Pics Down Below

NEW A/C Compressor Hub and Clutch Assembly….(you had to tap it to make the a/c come on lately, and as soon as it tried to cycle, the a/c was done until you tapped it again...)
NEW AEM DRY cone air filter for the K&N FIPK intake. New filter requires no filter oiling…I’d had to clean the MAF a couple weeks ago due to K&N oil tripping the Check Engine light. Just wish the AEM wasn’t RED. Looks “ricey” to me….. The K&N was black.
NEW spark plugs – Bosch Iridium
NEW spark plug wires – Bosch Premium (what a NIGHTMARE those wires are to replace!!)
NEW fuel pressure regulator (star/torx bolt faces DOWN on the backside of the intake/motor…nice design GM!!), BUT car now starts at first turn of the key, cold or hot (leaking regulator made car crank a lot before starting when hot)
NEW PCV valve and hose, (found out hose to PCV was dryed/cracked under Vette fuel rail covers, so PCV valve had been INOP for who knows how long…)
NEW fuel filter under the car
NEW transmission filter kit and pan fluid changed (not a flush, just pan job, last done at 74K miles)
NEW rear axle fluid, limited-slip additive, and gasket
Front Wheel Bearings re-packed
Front Suspension Fittings Lubed

The Optispark was NOT touched. Thing works fine still….and scares me to death.
Car still has original fuel pump. Will change it soon just to be safe…no funds for that or the Opti right now. I most-likely just jinxed myself!

Also found out that while the plug wires were original to the car, the plugs had been done. Had Autolites in it. Yuck.

Car seems to run SUPER now. Projects!

-Texas Mike

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Looking good Mike,I can see your grin from here!

Good work Mike!

Tell me about the AC clutch replacement. The clutch went on my SS, and I was planning to replace the complete compressor.

opti. is easy...even easier if you have the twin electric fans...pop off the water pump, harmonic balancer with a basic puller kit and the opti will be right there in front of you. It only goes on one way so no need to set timing or mark anything before removal. A couple of tips: 1. there is an oil seal behind the opti which the opti slips into (front engine oil seal) replace that while the opti is off (pry it out, tap new one in evenly with a rubber mallet) 2. when installing the new opti. ( i suggest delphi or delco brand new) remove the cap on the opti. so that you can turn the rotor by hand when trying to align and seat the new opti properly. There is a small peg that has to line up on the backside that is a bit tricky.

Or if you are on a budget and want to buy some time, just remove the opti. cap. sand down all of the buildup on all contacts, spray down with brake cleaner, reassemble and enjoy!

ive done it on beater cars...it works!

Not opti, AC clutch

The air gap on the compressor clutch is adjustable,...

I have a 'few' extra optisparks if you need one, i can send you 'some' if yours quits,.

just make sure the vent hoses are working ok,.

Id adjusted the air gap on the compressor. Worked a bit, but still had to tap it now and then, and sometimes when the compressor cycled it would not come back on without stopping, getting out, and tapping the clutch. No fun in traffic. I just bought a hub and clutch from O'Reilly and used a puller to replace the assembly. So far, working fine!

New Opti and fuel pump are on the horizon, as funds allow!

-Mike

Just an update, I put almost 600-miles on the Roady this weekend.   Ran all over Texas in it.   Got just under 19mpg, and that was with a lot of city stop-and-go Dallas traffic, and running at 80mph with the cruise control set and a/c blasting between Austin and Dallas.   I'm happy with it!

As noted elsewhere my power antenna died in Dallas.  Bummed about that.   I have an antenna mast kit, Delco, that I bought for my '88 G-body Cutlass, which I sold before I installed.  Wondering if that mast kit will work on the Roady....   Need to find an interchange guide.  The antenna motor still runs, I can hear it.

The only other issue is the car ran a little hotter on the highway than it used too.   The temp gauge fluctuated between midway for the entire trip, sometimes a little above halfway on the gauge, sometime a little below it.    I'm wondering if the thermostat is not opening all the way.  May replace it just to be safe.   I flushed all the Dex-Cool crap out years ago, and replaced the T-stat and water pump at 80K miles (car has 122K now).

Oh and just an FYI, this was the first trip I've taken in the car since installing those Firestone Pursuit police-car spec tires.    While they are wearing well, and ride smooth on the highway, you can HEAR them more than the Goodyears on the highway, and they do not ride nearly as well on the cracked and potholed roads up in Dallas.   The car banged around a LOT around downtown Big D.   When these wear out, planning to go back to Goodyears.

I don't use the Roady for trips much anymore, it's mostly a weekend cruise-in and car-show toy these days, and a garage queen.  I don't want to wear it out.   But it was fun using it this weekend.  

Love that car!

-Mike

Just an update, the Roady is up in the air again. Developed an oil leak, I'm guessing on all my running around last weekend. Cleaned off under the car and am trying to locate the leak.

Also bought a new thermostat and will replace it as well at the same time.

We're never done with our toys!

-Mike

DANGIT DANGIT DANGIT!! Rear Main Seal leaking. Grrrrr........

Make sure it's not the rear intake seal or the oil pressure sender dripping down! Both are much more likely sources of oil back there than the rear main.

Thanks will check!

jayoldschool wrote:

Make sure it's not the rear intake seal  or the oil pressure sender dripping down!  Both are much more likely sources of oil back there than the rear main.

Had this happen twice. Very common on the LT1. Not a bad job to tackle yourself if you take your time.

YachtDriver wrote:

jayoldschool wrote:

Make sure it's not the rear intake seal  or the oil pressure sender dripping down!  Both are much more likely sources of oil back there than the rear main.

Had this happen twice. Very common on the LT1. Not a bad job to tackle yourself if you take your time.

Oil pressure sender is on the right side and it's leaking on the left. I think it may be the intake. Either way....about to do some major surgery on my baby. Dangit.

like Jay, I'd suspect the intake. Get Felpro 1284, follow the FSM. Not difficult, but it helps to have a 2nd pair of hands to set the intake back down. I think the only special tool you'll need is a fuel line disconnexion tool. If you ever thought about deleting EGR or bypassing the TB coolant passage, now would be the time.

Thanks all. What fun

Concur with Jason. Good time to ditch that stuff - especially the TB bypass with you being in Texas. lol