New exhaust

I wanna put a new exhaust system on my 95 RMW I was thinking of going with the Pypes Xpipes and Flowmaster 40s is there any specific ones I need to get?

Dynomax VT's will be silent on the highway. Flowmasters will drone like crazy and drive the average guy crazy.

The pipes x pipes is a very nice unit. cheap too

I like the Flowmaster 40's nice aggressive sound. Really depends on if you keep the resonators on or not.

muffler delete,. keep resonators,. cheapest bang for the buck,..

with the Xpipe do I have to do any cutting and welding or is it pretty much plug and play?

Also should I buy Headers while I am at it? If so what ones should I get?

Sherlock128 wrote:

Also should I buy Headers while I am at it? If so what ones should I get?

I think you should make the decision whether you buy headers or not,.

phantom 309 wrote:

Sherlock128 wrote:

Also should I buy Headers while I am at it? If so what ones should I get?

I think you should make the decision whether you buy headers or not,.

I was really in love with the idea of headers until I put them on the Formula, now I'm pretty much over it. It's a lot of work, it's hard to keep them from leaking and they really don't do a ton for the car. Just my .02

Sherlock128 wrote:

with the Xpipe do I have to do any cutting and welding or is it pretty much plug and play?

If you want it to work right and stay on the wagon...

All the pypes x pipe does is go from your stock cat location back to a location you can mount mufflers of your choice to. The piece fits excellent, but then you need mufflers, some sort of hangers, clamps or welds, tailpipes, etc.

Its stainless steel, so it won't rust off!

nstg8r wrote:

phantom 309 wrote:

Sherlock128 wrote:

Also should I buy Headers while I am at it? If so what ones should I get?

I think you should make the decision whether you buy headers or not,.

I was really in love with the idea of headers until I put them on the Formula, now I'm pretty much over it.  It's a lot of work, it's hard to keep them from leaking and they really don't do a ton for the car.  Just my .02

And create a lot of heat under the hood...

I have never had a problem with underhood heat with headers.

jasonlachapelle wrote:

I have never had a problem with underhood heat with headers.

shortie's or long tubes,.?

2x SLP shorties (coated)
1x AS&M shorties (coated)
2x tri-ys coated, 1x stainless uncoated

basically I read the exhaust threads on ISSF and didn't buy the ones that are notorious for causing problems.

jasonlachapelle wrote:

basically I read the exhaust threads on ISSF and didn't buy the ones that are notorious for causing problems.

Cleverrrrr

So will any of the headers that fit the Impala SS fit the RMW? and since I can't afford tri-y's what are some good cheap alternatives?

Sherlock128...mechanically basically anything that will bolt onto an SS will also fit on a Roadmaster. You could order a cheap set of headers for a 350 SBC designed for say a 70's Chevelle and they will work. You may have to make a little room by whacking the tubes with a BFH, or do a little trimming but they will go on and work. I suggest you read the exhaust section on the ISSF and/or spend a little time with Google.

If you don't plan on doing any engine modifications, skip the headers and concentrate on 2.5 exhaust pipes and mufflers.

I have had good luck with the house brand exhaust from Jegs. (I'm told its made by HeartThrob). If you order a kit designed for the SS the exhaust shop will have to lengthen some of the pipes as Wagons are longer then Sedans. Or get yourself the Pypes X pipe, and a set of mufflers of your choosing and take those to your favorite exhaust shop and have them make a cat back system for your Wagon.

I assume you either need to replace your exhaust due to age or your after a performance sound? If your looking for performance...save your pennies as just an exhaust on an otherwise stock LT1 Wagon is not going to net you anything...spend your money on rear end gears and a tune.

Big Wagon Guy wrote:

You could order a cheap set of headers for a 350 SBC designed for say a 70's Chevelle and they will work. You may have to make a little room by whacking the tubes with a BFH, or do a little trimming but they will go on and work.

Lt1's have D port heads, so you want to watch out for that when buying headers.

Probably not what you are looking for by the tone of your post, but I don't plan on any track days and like to keep it quiet (That way it's more of a surprise if I do put my foot down ).

Anyway, I bought a pair of Walker "Premium Quiet-Flow Stainless Steel" mufflers in the fall of 2012, looking for factory-like sound and longevity. Back in mid-December, a mere 3 years later, I discovered that while the muffler body may be stainless, the pipe stubs that attach to the rest of the exhaust system are not and had rusted away leaving the muffler hanging in space and useless. (Similarly, Walker's warranty was pretty useless -- it's almost cheaper to buy new ones than to ship them back for examination and exchange.)

I also found that the volume of sound echoing around the inside of an empty wagon with only one working muffler is pretty darn impressive -- possibly louder than the volume outside the car. I don't know how you plan to use your car, but if you will want to converse with passengers, you might want to reconsider the Flowmasters.

buickwagon wrote:

Anyway, I bought a pair of Walker "Premium Quiet-Flow Stainless Steel" mufflers in the fall of 2012, looking for factory-like sound and longevity. Back in mid-December, a mere 3 years later, I discovered that while the muffler body may be stainless, the pipe stubs that attach to the rest of the exhaust system are not and had rusted away leaving the muffler hanging in space and useless. (Similarly, Walker's warranty was pretty useless -- it's almost cheaper to buy new ones than to ship them back for examination and exchange.)

Teneco has exchanged my super turbo mufflers with just photos of the rusted product.

Another option: Keep the stock mufflers.  Keep the stock resonators.  Enjoy the puzzled look on ricer drivers as you stay with them pulling away from a light.

It's all well and good to talk about more bang for the buck, but there's also something to be said for the buck-less bang.