Does anyone have the book hours to rebuild a Rody rear axle?

I'm getting some noise from the rear end of my 96 Roady wagon. I've had 2 different shops look at it, and one was recommended by the shop I use for my regular service needs. Basically they are both telling me ring and pinion are shot. Apparantly the front pinion seal let go (this is a new thing), and the rear end blew out most of the gear lube. They refilled it, and I drove it awhile, but the damage is done. Since its going to be apart anyway, and the additional parts aren't really that much, I'm thinking of having the whole thing re done. I'm talking the whole bearing kit, ring and pinion gears, the works. Basically I'd be leaving the axles, and of course the housing itself. A used rear end, plus markup and labor is in the same ball park as a total rebuild. The estimate is in my car, but I think it was around 13 hours, and with parts and tax it is about $1100.
To me that sounds high on labor, but I don't have any way to check out what it should be. If anyone has accurate labor hours for the total rebuild, and can tell me where you got it, I'd appreciate it. I'm not taking it in until next Monday, so I have a few days to check this out and see if I can negotiate a better price. Thanks.

Ouch........

Mark, you posted you're thinking of getting rid of the wagon, it would be a cold day in hell, before I spent $1100 on a car that you're going to sell.

Get a complete used unit, and have it swapped. You probably can buy it and have it installed for $500. I know there's guys here that have them for $150. I sold the guts of one to a member for $100. I don't think he ever used it, as he ended up buying a whole unit. He may still have it.

The Mrs. won't be happy when you tell her this.

Tom

ok I'd at least upgrade the gear ratio if you're replacing the ring and pinion.

How many miles on this car? I ask because the axles wear too, where the axle seal rides on it. My C10 has 100k miles on it now, I pulled the axles a month ago to check them out when I was changing the fluid, and there was a groove in the axleshaft where the seal rides. So now I'm budgeting for new Moser axles when I have the gear ratio changed.

Tom, I appreciate your comments, but I don't want to risk putting a used rear end in the car. It is a big undertaking to swap one, and it is probably the only used part that can't be tested prior to installation. My rear end was just fine, but it suddenly failed. The car is 20 years old, with 114,000 miles. I looked around, and I found one with 140,000, and another one with only 50,000, but the shipping was a killer. And, you are right, I might be selling the car, but not right away. In the end if it costs me $500 more to have a guaranteed re built unit with a warranty, vs. the uncertainty of a used one, to me that is money well spent. Don't forget, the Roady has to get me back to Pittsburgh in the spring. What I am really looking for is a way to verify the hours being charged. If I can't find it I can certainly ask the shop to show me how he is calculating the time, but I'd rather find it ahead of time.

For some reason I read that as "Does anyone have the book, 'Hours to rebuild a Rody rear axle'?" and thought, there is a book called that?!?! That's crazy!!! I'll see myself out.

I would definitely shop this around. If youre going the rebuild route,Im with Eric,great time for upgrades. Not sure if I can agree with all your hesitation with a used unit. With such a cost savings Im sure it wouldnt cost that much more for an inspection,and fresh fluids. Ive ran several used,for what its worth...

There are standard “Labor Rate” guides published by various companies. I used to have one (PC based) but it seems to have disappeared a couple years ago.

13 hours seems a little high for swapping in a whole used rear, but it can be a time-consuming job to do it right. Removing and reinstalling the axles, brakes, backing plates etc. takes time. And then if the brake lines are rusty on the used housing (they will be) it’s additional work. Installing new wheel cylinders seems like a good idea while the brakes are apart. Add brake bleeding time.

It you are willing to just “roll” the used rear under the car, then it could probably be done in a few hours. I’ve never had a “junkyard rear” that I thought was in good enough shape overall, to do it this way.

Replacing the ring and pinion, bearings, seal, bushing, differential, and side gears and misc. parts should be a far less labor intensive job, although it does require someone who is experienced at setting backlash, bearing preload, and things like that.
I’d guess around 4 hours would be plenty for someone experienced with the process if it’s a “one-sider”. A “posi” will be more parts and labor.

The price I was quoted for for a complete overhaul. I used to be an insurance appraiser, so I am very accustomed to a flat rate manual, and how that whole process works. I was hoping someone (Fred, are you out there?) could reference a flat rate manual price for the job. I didn't question the quote because I don't have the documentation. If no one replies, I'll see if I can find it online, or at our local library. I sure don't want to overpay.

I have spent a life time buying used parts and putting them to work,.
inspecting a used rear is simple,.
Installing a used rear end is very simple,. definitely not worth 1100 to me,..
disconnect the e cables, 1 rubber line,. 2 bottom shock bolts, 4 driveshaft bolts,. 4 control arm bolts,.
IF i was looking for a shop to do it for me,. i would expect labour estimates in 5 hour range,.
which would include time spent making sure the bleeders were not seized, and the park cables not seized,.and the center brake line T was clean and ready to go,.on the donor rear,.
best of luck
I

phantom 309 wrote:

I have spent a life time buying used parts and putting them to work,.
inspecting a used rear is simple,.
Installing a used rear end is very simple,. definitely not worth 1100 to me,..
disconnect the e cables, 1 rubber line,. 2 bottom shock bolts, 4 driveshaft bolts,. 4 control arm bolts,.
IF i was looking for a shop to do it for me,. i would expect labour estimates in 5 hour range,.
which would include time spent making sure the bleeders were not seized, and the park cables not seized,.and the center brake line T was clean and ready to go,.on the donor rear,.
best of luck
I

Nick is spot on. When I swapped mine it took us just over 7 including a few coffee, lunch, bs, and autozone breaks. So I'd imagine a shop could do it a lot quicker without all the faffing about I did.

Well, I checked chilton, and motor labor times. For general knowledge, to R&R entire axle assembly, factory book time is
3.9 HR, motor time says 5.2hr, chilton is 2.7hr. There's no listing for "rebuild all of the rear axle". But the time study for 'R&R axle bearings' where a tech sets the car on the hoist, remove axles, swap bearings, reinstall axles, put wheels on back on is 3hrs. And to replace ONLY the ring and pinion, from start to finish, is 4.6 HR. I'm guessing the guy at the shop, just added all the times together for all the parts that are to be replaced. But it doesn't take 0.9hr to replace the pinion seal, when you are already taking the old pinion shaft out. Because he doesn't know how to properly quote a job, tells me he hasn't rebuilt many rear ends. You could call the shop back and ask how they calculated their labor estimate, or you could try another shop. You wouldn't go to a doctor that you don't really trust, so don't tolerate a mechanic that won't take the time to explain what he's doing. Just my two (ASE certified master) cents