Remote lock drivers door lock problems

So I've been trying to figure out my remote lock problems and finally getting somewhere. My power locks never worked since I bought the 91 OCC. I replaced the box and now all power locks work from switches in car besides drivers door. It locks but will not unlock with the switch. I also can't get the remote to go into program status (cycle locks). Some reading through the manual says the remote box grounds through the drivers door lock. So I'm believing these two issues are related. I'm going to test for power both ways at the door lock actuator. If that's good I need to find the relay for the locks. Anyone have a pic or know location of it?

The relay is behind the kick panel on the driver's side.

The 91 remote receiver has gray connectors. The 92-93 remote receiver will also work in a 91, and has green connectors. I do not know if the 94-96 remote receivers will work. They have black connectors.

So I test light the door lock actuator and no power on the tan wire when unlocking so its not the actuator. I tried 2 different relays and a second keyless entry module to no avail as well. So I am guessing the tan wire going to the door lock actuator has a break in it somewhere. If I am looking at the manual right it appears the tan wire at the door lock actuator comes from the keyless entry module (not sure which wire color yet). So could I just run a new wire from the keyless entry module (color wire to be determined) straight to the drivers door lock actuator (tan side)? I'm hoping this would complete the circuit and allow the door to unlock and keyless entry to be programmed. Any insight or help would be greatly appreciated. I'm not the best at reading these diagrams but I am trying my best. Thanks!

Check your circuit breaker A. The LH front door is powered separately from the other locks. Start with power to the A pin of C1 on the KEM. The wire is orange/black. It is hot at all times. Check for it on pin C of C1 when the KEM is actuated.

Check for voltage on ckt 1455 pin F on Blue connector black/white wire (goes to the keyless programming connector). If the voltage is not present the module is not working properly.

Diagnosis is on page 9K-9 of the FSM.

What color are the connectors on your keyless entry module?

KEM is blue connector and black I believe. I put it back together to do more research. I'll have to try these another night. Thanks Fred!

Not the connectors that plug into the KEM, the connectors on the KEM itself.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

Check your circuit breaker A. The LH front door is powered separately from the other locks. Start with power to the A pin of C1 on the KEM. The wire is orange/black. It is hot at all times. Check for it on pin C of C1 when the KEM is actuated.

Check for voltage on ckt 1455 pin F on Blue connector black/white wire (goes to the keyless programming connector). If the voltage is not present the module is not working properly.

Diagnosis is on page 9K-9 of the FSM.

What color are the connectors on your keyless entry module?

So I went back out, lol

Sorry, connectors on KEM are gray

A Pin has power

No power to C when unlock is hit on the door switch. Does this activate the KEM as well?

Voltage on pin F is 7.3

Diagnosis chart leads to open in CKT 295 (gray wire from power door lock relay to the door lock motors) or 694 (tan wire from KEM to driver door lock motor)

Since the rest of the door lock motors work am I wrong to assume it is in the 694 CKT and not 295?

If you have voltage at the programming connector, and the module will not program, the FSM says the KEM is defective.

Did you look at the 9K-* pages of the FSM? The diagnostics are on those pages.

I am using the chart on page 9K-9 since all my locks work besides the unlock feature on drivers door. I redid this chart and got all the way to 5 and no light from test light. Solution is short to ground in CKT 694 and if that's good replace KEM. Am I not using the right chart Fred?

So my thinking is run a test jumper wire from C on KEM to tan on drivers door lock.  If that fixes it, I've found the shorted wire and can just run a new one between the two.  If that does not fix it then both KEM I have are no good and I'll need a good one.  Is my train of thought on the right path here?  If both my KEM are bad, do you have a known working one for sale Fred?

did you get the remote unlock module to cycle? have you married the car to the remotes?

Nope. Grounding the learning wire out does not cycle the locks so I cannot program any remotes.

could be as simple as the driver door lock switch is pooched?

Drivers door lock switch tested out good. TrI'd multiple door lock motors and same result on all.

then the jumper wire looks like its next,..just go from switch to module without fishing all through everywhere,.?