Location of '93 Starter

Where's the location of the starter on a '93 Roadmaster?

Let Google help...

Behind the Y pipe. You have to remove the frame brace on the passenger's side to get it out. You can unbolt the ends, and rotate it. You can not remove the center bolt/nut with the A arm on the car. After removing one, you will be inclined to put dual exhausts on the car.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

Behind the Y pipe. You have to remove the frame brace on the passenger's side to get it out. You can unbolt the ends, and rotate it. You can not remove the center bolt/nut with the A arm on the car. After removing one, you will be inclined to put dual exhausts on the car.

Damn that sounds like a pain in the ass to R&R a common failure item.

It is a PITA...big time.

Had to replace the original starter on my 93. Man, that was a learning process. Thought I had it made but the euphoria only lasted two months as the replacement starter gave up too. Fortunately the new starter died while I was at the NAPA store where I purchased it. While NAPA didn't cover the labor cost to remove the dead starter they did hand me a brand new starter and paid the charge for a rollback truck to haul my Roadmaster back to my garage. Not too bad for helping a guy with warranty issues in my opinion. The second replacement starter still spins it over like a champ two years later. What do you guys do about the welded in brace on the 96 models ?

The 96 cars have dual exhausts, and removing the starter is not an issue.

Sweet ! Thanks Fred !

Make a hump in your trans crossmember, remove the auto ride height compressor, and get a muffler mount from the passenger's side of a JY car (holes are in the frame to mount it on the left). If you dump the pipe in front of the axle, you do not have to worry about heat shields for the tank. A set of shorty or long tube headers and duals, no more starter swap headaches. Just make sure the pipes are low enough at the rotating trans shaft so it does not hit in first gear. You may consider some heat shielding at the wiring beside the frame at the trans linkage, and the brake lines. Put the O2 bung on the collector, and make a wiring extension from an old O2 sensor pigtail crimped to the new O2 sensor wire. You also have to rotate the oil pressure sender back and parallel to the side of the engine.

If you need cats, make sure you put a heat shield on the driver's side, or you will get hot feet.

A side benefit is more HP, and I do not know any LO3/5 that does not need a boost.

If you can get a 93 9C1 TBI, cam, and computer, you will get even more power.

Removing the brace is possible with the A-arm in the car, you would need a thin wrench. Fred is right, whoever designed the exhaust is responsible for a lot of swear words.

You can R&R the starter with the brace in place. I've done it twice. Just takes some careful maneuvering.

RedandBlack wrote:

You can R&R the starter with the brace in place. I've done it twice. Just takes some careful maneuvering.

No kidding? I fought with that beast for awhile before I gave up and decided it was just impossible. Good to know that it 'can' be done for those times when it just has to be done right away.