android stereo

Loving my new stereo.  From Pumpkin, although there are a ton of other resellers and mfg out there on ebay, ali, and amazon.  
Installation was a bit complex, there are a ton of wires compared to most stereos, gps antenna, usb cords,microphone etc.

To get it all the way back like stock I had to lose a small bracket that connects the upper and lower dash behind the radio that seemingly did nothing, and lose the tabs back there too.  I do not believe it will create any problems removing them.  It could be mounted without doing that, but it would have stuck out the opening a lot more than I liked.
Also, the radio surround built into the big dash cover piece had to be trimmed to fit.  I got a little overzealous on the cut on the left side and had to add a small bezel that I may paint to match, but the black does not look that bad.

In the short time I have used it, I could recommend everyone gets one of these.  It also came with a backup camera that I need to take a pic of, that works awesome.

oh, and the buttons light up any color too, I forgot to have the headlights on to show that. I found a color that matched perfectly with the rest. I do need to address the common problem of no dimming on the climate ctl. panel, I'm not sure what method I will take to do that yet.

Looks pretty cool.

Thanks! I really liked the original stereo, I had the cd/tape combo and loved the big display and volume knob. Unfortunately, it would not eject cd's and did not play tapes or cd/tape adapters. This was cheaper than buying a new one with the aux in mod, which was option #2 since I liked it so much. This new one really brings the wagon up to todays standards and feels very modern making phone calls hands free while navigating, or streaming music or video.

I'd also like to request a little help on this too.
My background is cool but..
It would be cooler if it was a woodgrain background with the roadmaster text emblem.  Anyone good a photoshop or something like that?  800x480 display...  I can change to any pic I load.

like this, but not covered in snow and dirt and maybe more effectie if that's a word :

I had considered getting one of these for my GF, but I figured putting one of these touch screens in a Honda, even a cheap one, would just be too enticing for thieves. So I just got a Kenwood media receiver that does bluetooth and whatnot.

MalibuSSwagon wrote:

I had considered getting one of these for my GF, but I figured putting one of these touch screens in a Honda, even a cheap one, would just be too enticing for thieves. So I just got a Kenwood media receiver that does bluetooth and whatnot.

I agree It's a target now. Add to that thieves love hondas, I might have considered the same in your situation. With that said, any good thief should steal some new oem setup worth a ton more than one of these.

If you want a good name-brand stereo that should mount without a lot of cutting, you might try the PIONEER AVH-X4700BS Double Din CD/DVD Receiver Touchscreen 7" Car Stereo, which is what I put in my TrailBlazer.   I'd thought of also putting one in my Roadmaster I like it so much.   It's fully-touch screen, hands-free Bluetooth, back-up camera, XM, all the bells and whistles.  You can change the backlit colors too to exactly match the Roadmaster dash.





One of the big plusses for our B-Body wagons is the dimmer can be set to come on and shut off at a specific time of the day, which as you know was always one of the "gotchas" with putting an aftermarket stereo in our cars.   A neat feature!    And the face of these is the correct size for the 95-96 Roadmaster dash opening.

Just an idea!  Love mine!

-Mike

81X11 wrote:

One of the big plusses for our B-Body wagons is the dimmer can be set to come on and shut off at a specific time of the day, which as you know was always one of the "gotchas" with putting an aftermarket stereo in our cars.   A neat feature!    And the face of these is the correct size for the 95-96 Roadmaster dash opening.

Just an idea!  Love mine!

-Mike

That stereo looks good in there, I have had some reliable pioneer units over the years.  I cannot live without a volume knob.  It was one of the main reasons I chose the model I did.  I could have had a 7" screen If I didn't have the need for knobs. Maybe it's a quirky thing of mine.

The roadmaster dash opening for the stereo has quite a bit of radius at the edges of it. that was the most interfering part.  I suspect a lot of radios may have a problem with that.  the sides top and bottom needed like a mm shaved, but that may just be Chinese stereo tolerances.

The deal with the dimming isn't so much the radio not dimming, it does, and turns the buttons on.  It also has a feature to use time of day.  The problem is the stock radio supplied the dimming function (pwm) to the HVAC panel, which now is not able to dim.  There are ways around it, I have not chose which approach yet.  I'm leaning towards just putting a tinted film sheet over the display, since I really never need it as bright as it is.  Or I'll hack the old radio and hide the board somewhere to keep dim.  Or maybe I'll buy a pwm dimmer that may or may not work.  Idk yet.

This unit supports torque via bluetooth adapter/obdII.  Does the 96 obdII computer play friendly with those obdII bluetooth doodads? It would be kinda cool to have that as well... those adapters are super cheap now.

atlantadan wrote:

81X11 wrote:

And the face of these is the correct size for the 95-96 Roadmaster dash opening.


-Mike

I have the 4100 NEX in my wagon and while it does fit, you do have to notch the HVAC duct in the back in order for it to sit back in there enough

Well, It's good to know that if I ever drop the coin to get a name brand receiver, It should fit the space I've already created back there.

Did you relocate that little brace back there or leave it off?

How did you address the hvac dimming?

that kit is nice looking, and I like your sneaky antenna switch,  I might add one myself somewhere(once I fix the antenna)

I've been hard at work emptying shelves of audio equipment from years past.  It's nice to get it all in a car again.  It has been a long time.

Yesterdays project emptied these boxes:


I hid the amp in the drivers rear wheel well with the sub and orion amp.  There is a lot of wasted space in there.  


I still have this Punch amp, but is it overkill?  I could use it for the front or rear and use the alpine as a 2 channel.  Or just run the alpine as a 4 and call it a day.


The Eq is under the ashtray but not complete yet.

this is the reverse cam they included.  It works


I need to enclose the rear 6x9's somehow, they need a baffle to make any decent noise and add some speakers next.

I am however glad I did not choose my career as an audio installer.  My back is tired and sore from fitting underdash.  And I take too long.

So I have this friend who works for a major name in audio. He sent me this pic, telling me he wants me to figure out how to fit this tweeter in my door. The big one. The smaller two are if I fail to figure it out. The big one can go lower than a typical tweet and should have a big impact on sound.




It looks huge in the pic. It is. 85mm/3.3" a little bigger than stock but way deeper. My mind cannot see this fitting without hitting the window... but we will all see how it goes. that 2" one should be easy, if I fail at the 85mm.

well, got a box of speakers. Should be a fun project, and a great compliment to the new stereo.
These are all Oem upgrades for current vehicles, by a big name in aftermarket/oem sound.
the highs have a pretty powerful neo magnet in them and they seem less huge in my hand than on camera.. I've been told the dust cap in the center is glued on with something that never really hardens so it actually can float at a different rate than the rest of it. Fancy. The lower doors get the mica cone ones, they are really heavy! The rear 6x9s get tossed for the blue ones. Supposedly, they are all water resistant. These are nice speakers to replace the factory concert sound stuff, which I thought sounded good too but its paper from 1996...

This got very interesting.

Thanks! I'll try to take some better pics.
I made some adapter rings for the rears.  After much deliberation about how to mount them correctly I settled on just the adapter as the whole panel is supported by the speaker bracket, and its removal would require a redesign of the whole panel.  So, basically I just mounted the adapter to the stock bracket and walked away from the rears for now.  They sound great as is, and they are really just there for the kids anyways.

I should mention that these pics are from the test fit, my adapter changed shape a little, and all the screws were attached. I lost the tab type mount on the bottom wood and cut straight across to avoid that tab flexing. Just enough to not interfere with the cover panel. there was no reason not to as it added a lot of strength.

Trace some speakers


insert sawing and screwing noises


Insert plastic and metal clicking sound accompanied by fists punching plastic


I need to redo the grille cloth, it was peeling off on that side pretty bad.
Normally, I would have used a thicker adapter, but since the panel/mount is what it is, it should not matter at all.  I may revisit these later and design a carpeted enclosure/panel combo that can replace the whole shebang.

The fronts are next, and will need a nice solid mounting, as they are both heavy and strong.  Not sure if I'll get to that till the weekend.

Looks like a clean install.

thanks. Now, I really need to put some back glass lift supports on. They are not good when it's cold out. If that thing hits my head one more time...

I'd also like to mention I got a great power antenna from Fred K. here. Works great thanks Fred!
But a note of caution...
As I was replacing it in a snow bank in the dark, I did not note that the fender liner had 3 bolts with large washers, and 1 is shorter. Well, guess what I did? For reference that front bolt should be SHORT right under the battery. Good news, that battery was 5yrs old and purchased by the previous owner. Bad news, can't return a battery core with a hole in the bottom of the battery. I had to laugh at myself, but that was a dumb mistake and I don't do that very often. I've replaced all the baking soda I stole from the kitchen.

Headaches be gone
Honestly, I've never replaced these on any car I've owned. I'm usually too cheap. So, good for me I guess.

Sweet I need to send my wagon up your way . I definitely use some new speakers and head unit .

Gerome wrote:

Sweet I need to send my wagon up your way . I definitely use some new speakers and head unit .

I'm not a business, just a guy with a spare hour late at night for too many projects. I don't do installs for side work. I'm busy enough.

I will, however have a full set of stock concertsound II speakers that work, and a 96 head unit that cd/tape don't work on otherwise good for sale at some point. I can't imagine why anyone would want them unless an absolutely accurate restoration is what the plan is.

turnofftheradio wrote:

Gerome wrote:

Sweet I need to send my wagon up your way . I definitely use some new speakers and head unit .

I'm not a business, just a guy with a spare hour late at night for too many projects.  I don't do installs for side work.  I'm busy enough.

I will, however have a full set of stock concertsound II speakers that work, and a 96 head unit that cd/tape don't work on otherwise good for sale at some point.  I can't imagine why anyone would want them unless an absolutely accurate restoration is what the plan is.  

I understand what you mean about no time for extra stuff . You are doing some really nice work on you wagon .

turnofftheradio wrote:

Gerome wrote:

Sweet I need to send my wagon up your way . I definitely use some new speakers and head unit .

I'm not a business, just a guy with a spare hour late at night for too many projects.  I don't do installs for side work.  I'm busy enough.

I will, however have a full set of stock concertsound II speakers that work, and a 96 head unit that cd/tape don't work on otherwise good for sale at some point.  I can't imagine why anyone would want them unless an absolutely accurate restoration is what the plan is.  

There are a couple of companies on Ebay that refrib and even update these head units. By update,I mean add jacks for your digital music formats.

Andebe wrote:

There are a couple of companies on Ebay that refrib and even update these head units. By update,I mean add jacks for your digital music formats.

Yeah, I came close to doing the modification on the stock one. I really liked the giant display and big knob. It's a really good design for me. But, by the time I fixed the cd, tape and aux in mod... I should just buy a new headunit. that was my thought process at least.

My Fiero on the other hand will get the aux mod. I have a later Pontiac cd with eq in it that looks just right and is din 1.5. I don't want to chop the fiero opening to 2.0, or lose the pontiac lighting that matches everything so well, and the cd works. so the mod makes a lot of sense there.

Gerome, thanks for the compliment.
My wife is taking the kids out saturday and giving me some garage time so with any luck I'll have some progress on the fronts to show, and hopefully no cracked door panels to whine about. The winter is not my favorite time to remove interior panels.

One word for the Fiero. Northstar.

Andebe wrote:

One word for the Fiero. Northstar.

You can tempt me off topic a little
As my first v8 swap I chose the 4.9. It's no northstar, but it was sort of easy and not too expensive, but with plenty of torque for me.




It joined a nice show last summer as well

Sweeeeeetttttt.

So, I did it.
sorry for not capturing all the details on film, but I had limited time.  It was dark and sprinkling as I was finishing.

weedwhacker fish tape


cut bucket


fix to door


remove tweeter.  difficult.


I cut just a little extra for the hole that was already there behind the tweeter and mounted the high there in the door itself.  slightly tapered spacer.  No interference issues.  door is deep to window.
I missed a pic with the panel off.  sooner or later my window slider will break and I ll get a pic then.  You can see the dome back there.


Sound quality is amazing.  
Sadly, my amp is so old, it does not have an adjustable hpf, it is fixed.  I want 200hz to the highs.  I'll find something soon.  In the interim, it sounds stupid awesome, with whatever the hpf cutoff is. no data in the manual what fq they tuned it too.

Did I mention the sub?
blaupunkt 1000w dvc 10"




I still cant believe all the stuff I hid behind panels.  GM could have put 1000 cupholders in this.

I like...love the clean look install. Nice job.

Thanks!  Years ago I would have mounted everything out in the open with some sub array that took up the whole rear area, kick panel enclosures and stuff all over, encroaching on passenger space in the name of sq and db.  Tastes changed for me, and I really wanted to have as little effect on the cabin area as possible, I think the wagon is just comfy as is.  I think I succeeded in that respect.

I should also mention the woofers are not secured as final design in the pic. Pics are from door panel test fit, which obviously turned out fine
I ended up suing something similar as shown, but a bolt rather than the weak flat head screws, along with nuts on the back, and nuts at plastic box, and yet another nut at speaker flange. along with washers as needed. It sounds complicated, but its just a bolt with a few nuts.

FYI if anyone wants to copy me, these same speakers can be found in new wrangler unlimited's with the Alpine upgrade. Sooner or later they will be cheap and easy to get at the yard/ebay I've heard mixed reviews about them from jeep forums, but its a jeep... They work awesome in the RMW

I've just bought an Android stereo... it seems the features are a standard... radio, MP3, DVD, GPS, bluetooth, OBD2, rear camera... mine also has a volume knob. Next weekend i'll try to install it, hopefully it will not require too much modifications... we'll see

Quetzalcoatl wrote:

I've just bought an Android stereo... it seems the features are a standard... radio, MP3, DVD, GPS, bluetooth, OBD2, rear camera... mine also has a volume knob. Next weekend i'll try to install it, hopefully it will not require too much modifications... we'll see

depending on how deep it is, you should not have any big obstacles. The most annoying part was getting those couple of tabs off the rear plastic in the radio pocket. a dremel could cut them off, or a drill bit with a stop to perforate the area and snap the pieces out works too, just don't drill too far...

The radio factory sometimes pins the yellow wire in the wrong spot. double check that it retains memory before you put your dash back together. Mine was correct.

My gps antenna was too short to reach the vista window, but it seems to do well just behind the windshield under the roof. The solar glass windshield will not pass gps well if you have that option.

The mic I stuck up the a pillar at the corner of the roof. My call quality has been good like that.

If you are not using an amp, just leave the whole rca harness off the radio. You can save a lot of room behind it that way.

The metra kit was flimsy. It worked fine, but needed a few minor adjustments to fit just right. I found it best to bolt the dash kit, and the stock brackets that it screws to, to the radio, then install that whole assembly in there.

If you got the rear camera too, I snaked the wire down the drivers side, through the gate wire boot and mounted the cam to the license plate light bolt. I had to remove the trim above the plate to access this. The signal wire I tapped into the reverse light wire that is in a connector right there by the taillight/storage box.

Last but not least... the foam by the vents on the back side of the dash trim will have turned into a black goo that will get all over if you are not careful. so be careful, especially if you are a tan interior. If not, brake cleaner got it out of my carpet very well.
make a post when you get to doing this, I'd love to see how it turns out for you. Good luck!

Thanks... i've planned to place the GPS antenna on the cockpit, near the base of the windshield. The only thing is, my GPS antenna is a rectangular plastic box with an adhesive on one side... i don't know if it has an "upper" side, i mean if i can glue it on the windshield (with the adhesive side up) or on the cockpit (adhesive side down) and if this make a difference.
As for the mic, i must check but i remember it's built-in... so no wires, at least for it
I'm planning to use the built-in amp for the speakers (maybe i will replace them with some hifi parts, but the stock ones are pretty good) and an extra amp to power a sub. I've seen someone put the sub in the rear left side and i think is a good spot, maybe with some soundproofing to prevent bad vibrations.
Rear camera over the license plate is a good idea, but i prefer a more hidden spot... maybe under the bumper, but it can be too much lower and will reduce visibility. I'll check at the moment.
Thanks for the foam advice, yes i've tan interiors and they seems difficult to maintain clean... my gf brother has an Alfa Romeo 159 with tan Alcantara interior and he's becoming mad trying to keep them clean

do you have a link to the model you bought?  

mine has a built in mic on the front as well, but it did have an rca cable to add another mic.  If yours has that capability it might be worth looking into if you plan on using that feature a lot.  I tested it with just the internal one, and it was ok, but I felt like I had to speak to the stereo for it to be clear/loud for the other person, and that felt kinda weird.  Mine did come with the extra mic and camera as a "gift" from seller.

The gps, I put sticker down... I had no Idea what way it was supposed to go either lol

I also realize I did not offer my model number for reference here either.
its a RQ0267E from pumpkin
So it's really a MTCC KLD6 unit running 5.1

That's a good looking stereo!

It is deeper than mine. yours is 165mm, mine is 153.

with that said, I mounted mine all the way to faceplate, which is 173mm, I dont see that measurement in your ad, but I suspect my face it thicker with all the buttons so they might be close in total length.
It helped reduce glare to tuck it as far in as possible.
It may be possible to heat gun that back panel to get a little amount of room if you need more.

I think that it is going to look great in your dash.

I really hope so... i'm just a little scared about placing all the wires and the stuff, i will probably disassemble half the car to install everything
I have an experience with parking sensors in my previous car, i bought a front-rear 8 unit kit, i did all the work in one day... but i started at 8:00 AM and finish at 20:00 PM, with only a little pause to eat something... at one point my car looks like i want to tear apart every single piece... a nightmare

It does look a mess in the middle of the project, but...
I only had to remove:
the lower black plastic cover (no tools, just tabs)
knee panel under steering wheel, and tiny panel next to glovebox (no tools just clips)
the big long vent/ instrument radio cover (2x 7mm screws above speedo, and a bunch of clips)
screws holding the radio in

that was it to get access to anything radio

for the camera line I had to remove the rocker panel trim f&r and the back side panel and the speaker cover. I used a fish tape to get the line up the back wheel hump without taking that panel off. Then tailgate panel off, metal covers behind that off, and plate trim off. thats it.

I spent one day running the camera line back and attaching the camera, then another day fitting the radio, so I didnt have a giant pile of stuff around.

I highly suggest buying a harness adapter. One that plugs into your stock stereo connector that you can solder on to the radio harness, so you can always go back to stock. It will give you a little more wire to work with too.
Try to get as much wire/ rca plugs tucked through the hole on the left side of the radio where the harness passes to get as much room as possible.

THIS is why people must create/register to owners forums... you're great!!!
I'm planning to work at the headlight switch and at the cig lighter next weekend (i've spare time only on saturday afternoon and maybe sunday morning, so no major work involving tearing apart half vehicle is recommended, or i will go to work without a dashboard for the whole next week )

Don't forget to pickup an antenna adapter. Our antenna plug is dinky and does not fit.

So, as i had my monthly free saturday (i usually work till 13:00 every saturday, except one every month) and i decided to try to install the radio. I've got some troubles regarding mainly the connector... as the radio DON'T have a standard connector, but a load of wires... so i've had to travel all my land in the quest of finding the holy connector... yes, it was like an RPG, as this little plastic thing is quite rare in these times of builtin radios...
Finally I had all I need, then i found that the Oracle's previsions (turnofftheradio ) were true: the radio is too deep and i have to cut something. I've an old pyrograph that i used to cut the three bulges on the back of the radio housing. Also, the frame on the instrument cover has round corners while the radio has sharp ones, so I had to shave corners and also a mm all around, with a file.
The result is this:

EXTRA:
-GPS: i've placed the antenna on the dash, between the central vent and the windshield, and hide the wire under the windshield... enter in the right "door" on the dash side and run behind the three (or four?) bolts that hold the upper dash panel, behind the center vents, and in the radio housing.
-USB: the radio has 2 USB cables, i've used the hole on the right of the radio housing to pass wires and bring them into the glovebox

TO DO:
-"PARKING" cable: don't checked yet, instructions says that if this cable is not connected to the parking brake light, radio cannot play videos. It's a safety measure, but i wonder if this can be "cheated" using a normal +12v cable, in order to play videos whenever i want.
-REAR CAMERA: it was mainly a matter of time... but also i'm not sure where to place the camera. I've seen pictures of the camera over the license plate, but i think this position lets the camera become very dirty with wet roads... i want to try to install inside the car, over the back door, "looking" thru the rear window. The ideal place is near the second door handle (the one that opens the door downward) as the wiper reaches this area, so i can clean the glass if it's dirty, before using the camera. I must only test if the camera LEDS reflect on the glass.
-ehm... load a pendrive with some good music... i hate radio

looks great!! good Job!

parking cable- I did hook this to ground, yours sounds different if it wants 12v. however in the settings menu there was an option to bypass it through the software.

Mounting the camera on the window inside is a neat idea.  I'm interested to see how that works.  Nobody can steal that.

yesterday i was thinking about the parking cable... instructions said if the cable is not connected to the parking brake, video won't be reproduced. The issue is, you CANNOT play videos while driving, as moving images can distract you and may cause danger situations. OK, but... if this cable may bring the consense to play videos, it means it says "OK" when the parking light is ON... and the parking light is a normal 12v bulb, so in the cable will run 12v... and if I wire it to the +12, or the ACC, radio think it's ALWAYS parked and will show videos whenever I want.

But i've left the cable unwired, tried a video and it plays.
I'm a bit confused

PS: i forgot another TO DO...

-buy a OBD Bluetooth connector. Radio has a software that connects to this thing and constantly read data from the car's ECU, both engine errors and normal data as RPM, speed, torque, fuel consumption etc.
Before buying the radio, i was planning buy this thing... http://www.ebay.it/itm/282211657575?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
But the OBD is only one, so i must choose and i think i'll chose the Bluetooth reader ant the radio software.

Quetzalcoatl wrote:

yesterday i was thinking about the parking cable... instructions said if the cable is not connected to the parking brake, video won't be reproduced. The issue is, you CANNOT play videos while driving, as moving images can distract you and may cause danger situations. OK, but... if this cable may bring the consense to play videos, it means it says "OK" when the parking light is ON... and the parking light is a normal 12v bulb, so in the cable will run 12v... and if I wire it to the +12, or the ACC, radio think it's ALWAYS parked and will show videos whenever I want.

But i've left the cable unwired, tried a video and it plays.
I'm a bit confused

PS: i forgot another TO DO...

-buy a OBD Bluetooth connector. Radio has a software that connects to this thing and constantly read data from the car's ECU, both engine errors and normal data as RPM, speed, torque, fuel consumption etc.
Before buying the radio, i was planning buy this thing... http://www.ebay.it/itm/282211657575?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
But the OBD is only one, so i must choose and i think i'll chose the Bluetooth reader ant the radio software.

Funny enough, my software came with the box checked to bypass that brake trigger. Maybe yours did too. I think you need factory password to get to that setting. mine was 126.

Now, I know yours is not mine... but a snip from my manual:

pumpkin car stereo wrote:

Cable Connection

Please correctly connect the cable according to the connection diagram on the top surface of your item.

Power cable

There are three power wires in the ISO wiring harness, they are red, yellow and black. Please connect red wire with the ignition wire. Yellow wire has to be connected to constant 12V power supply. And black wire is for the negative power.
If your item has steering wheel control function, it should have three steering wheel control wires(except for can bus interface controlled head units) which are also two positive and one negative. Please pay attention not to mix up the power cable and steering wheel control cable, or your item will be burned.

Brake cable

The brake cable should be connected to your car's hand brake. In this way you will only be allowed to watch videos when parking your car. To meet your front passenger's demand of watching videos while you are driving, you can connect the brake cable to your car's negative power. But we strongly suggest drivers not to watch videos while driving.

Audio cable

There are 4 pairs of audio wires in the ISO wiring harness, they are grey, green, white and purple. You need to connect each pair to the corresponding car speaker. For example, connect the white pair of wires to the front left speaker, one for the positive and the other for the negative.
Attention:
Please don’t let the wires touch each other. You can put some insulating tape on them, especially for those unused wires.

Restoration

This item has a RES button (normally on the front panel or behind the front panel). You can press the RES button whenever your item has any system problem, then it will restore to factory defaults.

I really want you to be sure that your brake wire is for 12v. it could get ugly if its supposed to be ground. If its working fine now, maybe I wouldn't go and connect it.

Regarding the OBD, I know there was an update needed to the firmware of the stereo with many of these. Bluetooth was causing a double boot kind of thing. Problem has been solved with update, but yours is new... so its probably ok.
Also, many guys have obd problems with adapter. It needs to have either no pin or settable to 0000 or 1234 I think. Not all can do that. I have not tried this yet, but I have been curious about adding torque/obd I'd love to hear how it works for you.

That Hud is a neat device.

The screen mirroring app is pretty cool if you have not checked it out yet. Anything on my phone... boom right on the stereo. I've been having fun with that recently.

I've done some customization like language, measures, date/time etc. and i've found nothing about the parking cable setting. But logic says videos won't play with no current on the cable (cable not wired/car not in parking), so if i can play videos, this means the option is disabled by factory exactly like your radio... that is a good thing

Regarding the OBD, i've not read the manual yet, if i will buy the Bluetooth OBD adapter in future, i'll read the manual first. This, if i will not decide to buy the HUD instead...

Sunday i was at a car meeting with my club, my T/A is yet in need of a new starter (a ministarter, it's in the trunk... i'm waiting my mechanic find some time to install it) so i came wit the Cruiser hahaha... (OT: my club is all about USA cars, President has a 2004 Mustang with Cervini kit and supercharger, there are also some RAMs, a Dakota, an F150, some vans from Chevy and Ford, and a bunch of Mustangs, plus a Vette, 2 Camaro, 2 Trans Am "KITT", a "General Lee" Charger, a "stock" Charger and some others... the meeting is mainly tuning-oriented, so other cars are like Punto, Smart, Golf and similar, with bodykits and thousand of watt...). While i was there, i've found my radio has some games installed... i tried a game from Angry Birds and it was fun

turnofftheradio wrote:

...The Eq is under the ashtray but not complete yet.

Would you be able to get a good pic of the EQ mounted? I would like to add an EQ and amp to the factory radio but am struggling with where to mount the EQ since that will be the volume control. It must be within easy reach to be useful.

I'm not much of a photographer...
what you cant really see is that there is a vacuum control for the heater that prevents this from being centered under the ashtray.  It is super tight in there but it does fit.  I had to use approx. 1/2" spacer from the dash to the top of the eq, otherwise it would interfere with the ashtray opening.  I did have to cut a little of the under dash plastic liner.  maybe 1x2"





from drivers perspective


I'm sure i could get it more level if I took a little more time

I should mention also... it would fit in the storage tray area... but the tracks and tray would have to be cut out and the front tray panel could be cut to fit the opening.  but the tray function would be totally lost.  I use that tray kind of a lot.

my current issue is that I need a crossover. My amp does a fine job with normal tweeters, but it is a preset cutoff and these tweets can go lower than an normal one. I'm exploring my options...