1996 RMW Replace all woodgrain trim

How hard is it to remove the woodgrain molding on the RMW? I have a set of restored moldings that I need to put on and wondering how to remove the old ones. TIA

No one has any info on removing the woodgrain moldings?

I've done it several times, not that hard of a job.  I would get a plastic putty knife to remove the moldings.  Gently pry up, you are actually prying it from a plastic clip.  It's been a few years since I've done it, but if I remember correctly, look for phillip screws on the back side, on the ends, such as the tailgate, doors etc.  The front spear is a little difficult to get off without breaking the clips.  Go very slow on those and be careful.  Should be able to do the job a half hour.

Tom

use hot water to soften the clips,.

where did you get "restored" trim?

Here: http://www.longroof.info/pdf/woodgraintrimremoval.pdf

brokecello wrote:

Here: http://www.longroof.info/pdf/woodgraintrimremoval.pdf

Some good tips in there, but a few suggestions:

The front fenders are the hardest by far. Leave them alone for now.

Start at the rear quarters, about 2/3 towards the back, learning how to pull the bottom out and rotate the trim out and up to release it, using only your fingers.

Progress forward and do both doors. Then the tailgate, the curved shape makes it a bit harder than the straight pieces.

You don't need the putty knife or removal tool for any of this until you get to the front fenders.

From the above: "You'll find that the end clips tend to stay on the moldings and the other clips will stay with the body."

Yeah. That's probably the understatement of the decade.

If you're pulling white clips off with the trim or leaving beige end clips on the body, you may wish to rethink that career as a autobody specialist.

Lastly, do the front fenders, You need the experience gained on the other trim to help you feel when things are going well, and when to stop and rethink what you're doing.

The fender trim in the tutorial is precariously close to being overstressed because the stud is free and the adjacent clip is still engaged. You can see it beginning to buckle in the photo.

Starting at the door seam, slide the putty knife between the trim and body and begin to pull the end stud out, but stop before it is fully extracted.

Now start releasing the white clips. The idea is to gradually ease the trim away, alternating between the stud and clips until the upper piece can be separated from the nose piece and removed entirely.

The panel tool is best utilized once the trim is already free of the clips to give better control while extracting the plastic pins.

One more comment - leave the punch in the toolbox. To remove the white clips, use a small plastic mallet.

Rest the side of the mallet head on the body and let it slide against it while tapping. You can tape off the body if you are worried about scratching the paint, but once you've done several of them you will be able to take them off with one hit.

- J

Thanks for all the tips guys appreciate it.

theamcguy wrote:

Thanks for all the tips guys appreciate it.

I will ask again,..

"where did you get the restored trim" ??

phantom 309 wrote:

theamcguy wrote:

Thanks for all the tips guys appreciate it.

I will ask again,..

"where did you get the restored trim" ??

Mick Hoglund info@woodgrain4wagons.com not inexpensive about a 3 month turn around but they came back very nice. It is as good as you will find. It is not a perfect factory type restoration he strips and repaints then with a wood grain pattern but they do not have the clear Mylar over the woodgrain vinyl like the originals.