Tire noise right after steering parts replacement

Hello everyone my names Eric and im a proud new owner of a 92 custom cruiser . cars pretty solid and i was trying to do some freshening up I've got new tires 235/75r15 and i was collecting parts for my front end rebuild . i replaced the steering components but did not do an alignment yet after because i still am going to do control arms. my concern is this the tires squeal like im driving the bluesmobile just turning in the drivethrus . they did not make this noise until i replaced the steering parts. is this just due to the alignment or possibly something else? Thanks alot !

etizz wrote:

H my concern is this the tires squeal like im driving the bluesmobile just turning in the drivethrus . they did not make this noise until i replaced the steering parts. is this just due to the alignment ?

Yes

Plain and simple lol . thanks for deleting my double topic whoever did that my phone resent the data and posted again. I was just making sure i didn't screw something up with replacing that stuff lol. Ill report back how off my alignment is once i get my control arms replaced lol

Your tires are going to wear rapidly so that alignment is a must once you are finished.

Yeah im aware i just tried to eyeball it one i was done...it drives straight lol im on call driving another vehicle the rest of the week so i won't be driving it until i do an alignment anyways. just wanted some insight on something else to look at when i mess with it again

It probably has some toe in. When you replace steering parts it usually pulls everything closer, and since you have not replaced the ball joints you get toe issues, because the ball joints may be worn on one side more than the other. When you replace the arms, you may find that the toe issues go away. When replacing the driver's side upper arm, it is easier to remove the studs from the frame, so that the arm is easier to remove. You will avoid removing a lot of other parts. Get new nuts for the studs, because they are only supposed to be tightened twice, then replaced. You could install the original ones to take it to the alignment shop, and take your new ones with you for them to install. Mark your shim stack when you take the arms off, and put them back in the same places. It will get you to the alignment shop.

When replacing the lower arms, you may have to use a nut splitter on the sway bar links. The nuts are usually frozen. You can get new nuts, but while you have it apart, you might as well put new ones in. They are relatively cheap. If you can find a 9C1 sway bar, replacing it would make the car handle better. The only caution in replacing the sway bar is: be careful tightening the mounting bolts to the frame. The metal is thin, and it is easy to strip the threads.

Check your speedometer for accuracy. The tires you bought are larger than the OEM tires, and will increase your actual speed by about 3 MPH.