Catback install question

I’m looking at the 2.5 inch catback for the Impala SS from Jegs to put on my 94 Caprice wagon. I have a hitch that I need to keep and I want to add new resonators and would like the exit to be in the stock location. I want to install the mufflers and over the axel pipes then have a shop install the resonators and tailpipes. I’m looking for a ballpark on what a shop would change for this. What have others been charged for this?

I do not know how much the shop will charge, but the pipes beyond the axle will need modification to clear the frame. The wagon frame is about 2 inches wider than the sedan frame from in front of the rear wheels to the bumper.

There is a shop here that will do an over the axle and back (does not include mufflers, or stainless tips) for $185 per side plus resonators.

Everything will work fine but the OTA pipes will need some modifying. The pipes themselves should go over the axles just fine and the passenger one will clear the tank and you can do as you please with the resonator and anything else you want. The driver side pipe needs to be cut after it goes over and custom made from there.

Can see the perfectly fitting passenger pipe here.



Can see the place you need to cut on driver side here. This was done hastily on lunch break but worked and I was too lazy to ever correct it since it cleared just fine.



I may have some other pictures on my hard drive.

Going this route gets you perfect mandrel bent OTAs versus the heavily smashed up crap the typical muffler shop will install.

Thanks guys. I spent a lot of time reading all the other posts about this before deciding on the Jegs kit. I looked all over for those $22 OTA walker pipes but can only find one side. I did find two places that showed them on their website but after placing the order they said they only have one side . I looked at the Clear Image stuff too but I don’t really want an x or H pipe because of a specific sound I’m chasing. In the late 60s and early 70s Mickey Thompson made headers called Super Scavengers and they create a unique sound that an x pipe may drowned out. If you haven’t heard them you might be able to do a google search to hear them. Anyway I know a guy who runs a hot rod shop and he is building them so I plan to find a long tube header and send them to him to modify the collector and turn them into Super Scavengers. I’m not sure I will get the full effect with a stock cam but it’s worth it to me to try.

Maybe you know this too:
How much clearance is there with long tubes? The collector on the Super Scavengers is almost a foot and half long, so I’m not even sure they will fit. Again you may be able to do a search and see what they look like.

The sound with the super scavengers will be muted with stock cam.

Yeah I think you are right. Muted is ok as long as I still get the sound. It a good reason to work up a new cam.

sschreiner5 wrote:

Thanks guys. I spent a lot of time reading all the other posts about this before deciding on the Jegs kit. I looked all over for those $22 OTA walker pipes but can only find one side. I did find two places that showed them on their website but after placing the order they said they only have one side .   I looked at the Clear Image stuff too but I don’t really want an x or H pipe because of a specific sound I’m chasing. In the late 60s and early 70s Mickey Thompson made headers called Super Scavengers and they create a unique sound that an x pipe may drowned out. If you haven’t heard them you might be able to do a google search to hear them. Anyway I know a guy who runs a hot rod shop and he is building them so I plan to find a long tube header and send them to him to modify the collector and turn them into Super Scavengers.   I’m not sure I will get the full effect with a stock cam but it’s worth it to me to try.

Maybe you know this too:
How much clearance is there with long tubes?  The collector on the Super Scavengers is almost a foot and half long, so I’m not even sure they will fit. Again you may be able to do a search and see what they look like.

The Walker pipes are what I used by they are now out of production.

Clearance depends upon the header you use. Best clearance is from the header specifically made for the LT1 B Body from Clear Image.

There is a generic header that fits from Summit and a couple other makers but I wouldn't waste my time with them.

Another choice is the Afterburner from Flowtech. They have significantly improved their design and have a nice coated set available. I ran some on a wagon years ago but the sealing was crap due the horribly made flanges. The new ones appear to have fixed that though.

Everything that isn't clear image will interfere with the A/C lines. They can be gently massaged to clear but most end up breaking them, I know I did on mine but was succesful when putting them on an Impala. They fit nicely and the Dynomax intermediate pies I had fit perfectly.

When I sold my 94 6 years ago I expected to be done with these cars so I purged all of my header install photos.

I read all the header threads too so I saw the ac line issue. I like the Clear Image headers but they are more than I want spend since I’d pay to have the collectors modified after buying them. I’ve used the summit brand headers before so I know what you mean about wasting time with them.

94Woody wrote:

Everything will work fine but the OTA pipes will need some modifying. The pipes themselves should go over the axles just fine and the passenger one will clear the tank and you can do as you please with the resonator and anything else you want. The driver side pipe needs to be cut after it goes over and custom made from there.

Can see the perfectly fitting passenger pipe here.



Can see the place you need to cut on driver side here. This was done hastily on lunch break but worked and I was too lazy to ever correct it since it cleared just fine.



I may have some other pictures on my hard drive.

Going this route gets you perfect mandrel bent  OTAs versus the heavily smashed up crap the typical muffler shop will install.

I know this is the wrong thread, but is this a Crown Vic sway bar install? The one thing I don't see is a pice of steel plate between the muffler clamps and the bushing retainers...did you just butt the two together?

Thanks!

Yes, that is a Crown Vic bar, two different bars actually. Correct, you don't see a plate because I didn't use one. A plate would provide a larger, flat area for the bushing to sit but I didn't take the time to make them.

I see that now, black bushings on one, red bushings on the other. I just finished my install this evening, gotta take it out and road test it. 21MM bar, energy bushings and endlinks. I planned it out over the lasr few months, acquiring pieces, and I did make plates, just in case. Have you had any problems without plates?
I kinda fooled myself trying to put the endlinks in that slot in the frame, worked fine on the passenger side, but there's wiring and metal lines on the driver's side. Ended up taking that apart, and popping a couple holes at the base of that brace, where there were already holes. Duh. Now I have to go test drive!

I didn't have any problems with it but I drove it normally so no idea on what hard driving would do.

I sold that wagon 6 years ago (less than 2 years after installing the larger bar) so no idea how it is holding up now. If the member that knows the current owner sees this, perhaps they can update