Nylon fuel line snapped off in my hand where it meets connector at fuel rail

It is the upper line. Now I have a loose nylon end. How can I reattach this to the fuel rail connector?

For some dumb reason, I cant post the picture

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picture on google photos

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I found this, but there is no little metal clamp on the OEM fitting? I do have a heat gun. Can be set to a low temp

I've repaired those lines before. I bought everything I needed at NAPA.

Tom

I tried heating with boiling water  and a heat gun, total fail, I lost another foot of line. The water is not hot enough, the heat gun heat melt the tube suddenly. Total disaster. I do think a 3/8 rubber hose wil fit on the OEM fuel rail fitting, then what 25 feet of rubber line? back to the tank?

I will look at repair kits. I always despised this nylon crap fuel line.  Which one is broke you think, pressure or return line?

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$20 for 25 feet of rubber fuel line 5/16, not too bad an idea.
I will check what size this OEM crap plastic line is first. The OEM connector has a hump so it can be clamped on.

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about same for 3/8 hoses

Those hoses are rated to 62 psi, and the fuel pump is 47 psi.

What size is the pressure side nylon fuel line, 10 mm or 3/8?

I have been experimenting with the 1 foot cut off section. Heat it with water, you put the fitting on, it gets about 3/8 inch in, and it splits every time. Then I can take the spit end and peel it right off. I think the nylon fuel line is defective due to age and heat. I did find 10 mm fuel line push together connectors, so maybe get some new nylon line, a  short section and slide it on the OEM fitting, do you thing new stuff wont split?

here is 3/8
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I used a heat gun and had great luck with it everytime. I don't think the rubber hose will work.

You can get the correct repair line sections and connectors at the parts store. I had to do that on the lines that connected to the sender on one of my wagons.

jayoldschool wrote:

You can get the correct repair line sections and connectors at the parts store.  I had to do that on the lines that connected to the sender on one of my wagons.

the tube is 3/8 inch wide.

did that today at Oreilleys. 20$ for a new Dorman connector with 18 inch tube already attached.
Dorman tubing connector push style, 8$, holds onto the outer tube, so none of this struggling heating old tubing , trying to insert a big fitting into the tube and having it self destruct.

it is better to not use rubber fuel line hose, as painful as it can be to deal with nylon tubing. You can buy fuel injection rated rubber hose, but it is very expensive. Amazon had a 20 foot roll for $75.

What concerns me is how brittle that nylon tubing is at the engine fuel rail. It snapped clean off. Now imagine it doing that onto a hot engine. Or it stalls, and you unwittingly crank it as it wont start over and over. A lot of gasoline would be pumped out onto a hot manifold.

And do not kink this nylon tubing, it will weaken and may crack.

Honestly I'm replacing the fuel lines in my wagon with new stuff. There are starting to be people losing their cars to car fires because of cracked or rubbed-through original fuel lines.

WOW that sucks!
Sounds like the proper repair kit isn't too expensive and works well enough.

We saw a guy at the junk yard a couple weeks ago pulling the entire fuel line setup out of a Caprice sedan to replace the lines in his sedan. Guessing he had a similar issue...

rcktpwrd wrote:

WOW that sucks!
Sounds like the proper repair kit isn't too expensive and works well enough.

We saw a guy at the junk yard a couple weeks ago pulling the entire fuel line setup out of a Caprice sedan to replace the lines in his sedan. Guessing he had a similar issue...

I am not certain that is a great idea, it is very old fuel line he is getting. A 10 foot roll of new 3/8 nylon fuel line at Oreilly is $13, so new connectors and new end, whole project would be maybe $60 for the pressure line.

or use this rubber fuel line, it has to be 30r9 rated. 25 feet for $75

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yeah I wouldn't try and use an old fuel line either... I would try the patch like you have done and see how that holds up. Then I would find/make new lines if the patch wasn't stable.

rcktpwrd wrote:

yeah I wouldn't try and use an old fuel line either... I would try the patch like you have done and see how that holds up. Then I would find/make new lines if the patch wasn't stable.

I am thinking engine heat slowly cooks these lines, further back may be ok.

Well it LEAKS GASOLINE past one of the new slip on dorman connectors. These are NOT quick disconnects by the way, even though says they are, once on very hard to get them apart. I eventually used a vice grip to squeeze onto the tubing mashed down as hard as I could then used a plier as a wedge to force it apart pressing back on the blue ring.
And they dont slip together easily. I did put a little grease on the tubing to help.
Waste of time so far.
I will have to replace 10 feet of tubing, my new roll, and its raining till tuesday.
It is leaking on the lower one and you dont notice it unless you put your finger there, then you can feel the wetness of the gas.
May have to buy another 2 Dorman quick disconnects.

Also having a hard time putting up pics here inline, constant fail on that, maybe you can see this in google photos with this link

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My recommendation just junk this nylon and go with the rubber fuel injection hose. Maybe some people have great times with nylon tubing, not me. I have been working on cars now 45 years. I do not trust any of the OEM tubing under the hood, maybe its better along the frame.

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Shows a DIY tool method to install fittings into nylon tubing. The caulk gun has to be heavy duty.

And the Dorman disconnects, put a piece of tape onto the tubing to mark where it will be when fully inserted/ Otherwise you may think it is all the way together but it wont be. And do grease it.

Horrible job to do this, and I have worked on cars a long time. Got it finished. Buick choose to put these lines in a terrible place, well protected but very hard to run new lines. they run thru the frame and then tuck behind the transmission support member, and the new coil is coiled tight. I pushed a small bike shifter cable, threaded into position behind that trans support, then brought it up close to the frame where the fuel line exits thru a small hole. Then had to insert it into the fuel line a ways, then using needle nose pliers inch by inch dragged the new fuel line past the trans support. It might have been easier having a helper to push the new line in. Also had to use long needle nose pliers to grab the new line to get the guide cable go into it. When you do that, you WILL get rust and dirt in the new line, as it slides along behind the tran support, so blow it out.

AND GM decided to put a coupler in the middle of this line, which made it even harder to get the OEM line out of there.

The other thing, the OEM fuel line is slightly bigger diameter than the 3/8 Dorman line. So the slide in quick disconnects fit very tightly. You probably can not push them together by hand. I cut the old line at the filter leaving about a foot. Marked with tape the insertion depth, greased it up, and could NOT push it all the way home by hand. So I got a small sledge hammer and whacked the other end of the coupler and after a few hits it went together ok. The Dorman line fits easily into the Dorman coupler. Maybe the OEM line is 10mm, I wonder.

Because it is so tight a fit, that is why I could not get the droman coupler to seat by hand a few feet along the old line near the brake cylinder. Which is why it leaked.  So I had to replace 10 feet with new line. 10 feet looks to be about the right length to the fuel filter.

Since no way to fit the new lines in the old plastic holders that hold brake, and both fuel lines, and the brake line was replaced, and it is also not in the OEM position, I plan to tie all the new lines to the brake line.

I also found out both exhaust pipes where they meet the Mufflers have holes, so that needs welding maybe.

I like that trick for putting the fittings in the lines. Diesel trucks use those things and I will try that next time I have a busted fitting.

this might be a little late but i used a caulk gun to attach the fitting on the line works great. you put the line in a brake flaring tool so that enough hose is sticking up out the top so the fitting can go in then place that in the caulk gun then put fitting in the hose and use the trigger to run the round part of the gun that normally pshes the caulk out to push the fitting into the line works great. i found a link with pics.

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mtrhead79 wrote:

this might be a little late but i used a caulk gun to attach the fitting on the line works great. you put the line in a brake flaring tool so that enough hose is sticking up out the top so the fitting can go in then place that in the caulk gun then put fitting in the hose and use the trigger to run the round part of the gun that normally pshes the caulk out to push the fitting into the line works great. i found a link with pics.

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You're not only late, you aren't paying attention. That link was already posted, lol.