My weekend project, Fuel Rail Covers

Well, I finally decided to tackle this project after hearing nothing but bad things about it. It was a 5 alarm PITA. But I like the result.[img][You must be registered and logged in to see this image.][/img][img][You must be registered and logged in to see this image.][/img][img][You must be registered and logged in to see this image.][/img][img][You must be registered and logged in to see this image.][/img]

looks great!

It was worth the effort Glenn and it matches the outside too!

looks great. what was the biggest problem? did you fill in the corvette name

very nice

I am not going to say anything about the fact he misspelled roadmaster!

Those look great, Glenn.

i like where do i get those

mtrhead79 wrote:

looks great. what was the biggest problem? did you fill in the corvette name

The biggest problem was getting the wiring harness out of the way. Had to tweak the trans dipstick tube and the fuel lines. The Corvette name had been removed when I purchased these. Thanks for the compliments.

Flasheroo wrote:

I am not going to say anything about the fact he misspelled roadmaster!

I was hoping you wouldn't notice Jim.

It was my favorite mod on my 96. Nice work!

You realize that now you have to make everything else under the hood look as great.

Nice job Glen!

Tom

Nick Danger wrote:

You realize that now you have to make everything else under the hood look as great.

It definitely makes other things look like crap. It never ends

Glen...

OUTSTANDING!!! Two wrenches up!

Definitely a unique approach and not the everyday fuel rail covers we see on these cars. I've always thought white under the hood would be a great thing to do and challenges us to keep the engine compartment & engine clean. Plus if there is a problem with leaks, etc. it's immediately obvious. Very well done!

Let's put in that Chrysler 8-speed automatic from the 300 and get the 3.73 gears installed. I actually got an honest documented 19.36 mpg in Polly, the '96 FLT Brougham, on our trip this weekend!

Talk with you soon,

Richard Snipes
4501 Safari in Jax, FL

Looks good Glen, nice headers too.

Dang dog.....

Mike

Now everyone knows why I keep my hood closed when parked next to Glenn.

Tom

200OZ wrote:

Looks good Glen, nice headers too.

Dang dog.....

Mike

I guess you recognized the headers. They work great and I appreciate the good deal on them.

silverfox103 wrote:

Now everyone knows why I keep my hood closed when parked next to Glenn.

Tom

Tom, I wish my wagon was as nice as yours.

As a few suggestion s to clean up a wonderful job, maybe you can find a 90* fitting so that the hose doesn't stick up in the air. Can the throttle and tranny cable be run under instead of over? it would it look cleaner.

Wow looks nice. Do these covers light up like them corvette ones I've seen somewhere before?

Plus one on the 90 for the vacumm hose. I wonder if anyone makes all white hoses? Or paint that you could match to those rail covers and spray all the hoses?

lakeffect wrote:

As a few suggestion s to clean up a wonderful job, maybe you can find a 90* fitting so that the hose doesn't stick up in the air. Can the throttle and tranny cable be run under instead of over? it would it look cleaner.

I will find some way to get the hose to not be so conspicuous. It is not possible to hide the throttle cable with these covers. It is made to go under them.
I know Robert wired his where it lights up. That's the only ones I've seen like that. Mine doesn't have the Corvette lettering or logo in them.

This is the hose you need.

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Where did you get the no logo fuel rail covers?

Glen,
Here's some info for you,

10214035 Corvette brake vacuum booster hose

To use the smaller diameter Corvette brake booster hose from the intake manifold back to behind the engine, where it will turn and then be spliced to the original brake vacuum hose. Both hoses will have to be trimmed in length, and you will have to make up a double ended barbed fitting to splice them together.

Because the Corvette brake vacuum hose is smaller in diameter than the stock hose (11/32" ID compared to 1/2" ID), you will need to change the brake vacuum fitting in the intake manifold from the existing 1/2" hose barb to a 3/8" hose barb type. This allows you to attach the smaller diameter Corvette formed brake vacuum hose. The portion that screws into the intake manifold is 1/4" pipe thread. Use teflon sealer on the threads before screwing the fitting in place. Remove the original fitting, take the 1/4" pipe to 3/8" barb fitting, apply some thread sealer, and screw it into the manifold where the original fitting was positioned.

Attach the Corvette brake booster vacuum hose to this fitting and run it back towards the firewall along the intake manifold valley, and then around behind the LH valvecover. There you will splice that hose to your existing brake vacuum hose with a 3/8" barb to 1/2" barb adapter made up from the brass double female union and 3/8" male pipe to 1/2" and 3/8" male pipe to 3/8" barb fittings. This brass splice can later be covered with the 3/4" convolute plastic tubing for a totally factory look.

Thanks very much. Excellent info. I ordered the Corvette hose and I will put it together when it arrives. Thanks again for the information. Glenn

No prob - post up some more pics when its done

gwturbo wrote:

200OZ wrote:

Looks good Glen, nice headers too.

Dang dog.....

Mike

I guess you recognized the headers. They work great and I appreciate the good deal on them.

Those headers have as many miles off a car as on!! Looks nice Glenn.

Looks good.

Looks great! I found that putting a couple of small washers at the bottom of the studs ( mounting studs that thread in) It gives you a touch more height on the covers. Helps them to lay better with the harness.

Chris

brokecello wrote:

Looks great! I found that putting a couple of small washers at the bottom of the studs ( mounting studs that thread in) It gives you a touch more height on the covers. Helps them to lay better with the harness.

Chris

Chris, I had seen your posting earlier on this and did use washers also because of that. It did help. Thanks, Glenn

Glen, Here is the complete procedure thats listed on my clubs website - it should provide you with some more insite.

Although these items can very easily be installed, there are a few modifications and adjustments that must be made, and several different parts are necessary to complete the job. The major appearance change comes from adding the Corvette fuel injector rail covers, and you can optionally also install the plastic Corvette valve covers as well. Since the valve covers are a direct bolt-on, there are no instructions necessary for them, other than what is already contained in the service manual. This text will focus on installing the fuel injector rail covers, which are a little more complicated.

First let's start with the parts list:

GM Parts needed:

10208794 Corvette LT1 Fuel Rail Cover LH ('94+)
10208795 Corvette LT1 Fuel Rail Cover RH ('94+)*
10224936 Corvette LT1 Fuel Rail Cover RH ('92-'93)**
10108672 Fuel Rail attachment studs (you need 4)
10260166 Accelerator linkage Cover
10242904 Accelerator linkage cover Bracket
11505169 Accelerator linkage cover Screws (10)
10214035 Corvette brake vacuum booster hose
8919356 3/4" ID convoluted plastic tubing (15 ft.)
20038997 Clip for Accelerator and Cruise cables (you need 2)

* Use this if you ARE also changing to the '94+ 'vette plastic valvecovers
** Use this if you are NOT changing to the '94+ 'vette plastic valvecovers

Generic or miscellaneous parts needed:

Brass fitting - 1/4" male pipe to 3/8" ID hose barb

Reducer Coupling - 1/2" to 3/8" hose barb
Waxman Nylon #07-832 (Available at Builder's Square)

NOTE: Optionally you can use the following brass fittings to construct a 1/2" to 3/8" hose barb reducer coupling:

- 3/8" pipe double female union
- 3/8" male pipe to 1/2" hose barb
- 3/8" male pipe to 3/8" hose barb

Washers - 3/16 (you need about 10)

Special tools needed:

Fuel Line Disconnect - 5/16" and 3/8" KD Tools #3321
Drill bit - 7/8"
Assorted files

Before beginning the injector cover installation, you will need to disconnect and re-route the power brake booster vacuum hose. To do this you will use the smaller diameter Corvette brake booster hose from the intake manifold back to behind the engine, where it will turn and then be spliced to the original brake vacuum hose. Both hoses will have to be trimmed in length, and you will have to make up a double ended barbed fitting to splice them together.

Because the Corvette brake vacuum hose is smaller in diameter than the stock hose (11/32" ID compared to 1/2" ID), you will need to change the brake vacuum fitting in the intake manifold from the existing 1/2" hose barb to a 3/8" hose barb type. This allows you to attach the smaller diameter Corvette formed brake vacuum hose. The portion that screws into the intake manifold is 1/4" pipe thread. I like to use teflon sealer on the threads before screwing the fitting in place. Remove the original fitting, take the 1/4" pipe to 3/8" barb fitting, apply some thread sealer, and screw it into the manifold where the original fitting was positioned.

Then attach the Corvette brake booster vacuum hose to this fitting and run it back towards the firewall along the intake manifold valley, and then around behind the LH valvecover. There you will splice that hose to your existing brake vacuum hose with a 3/8" barb to 1/2" barb adapter made up from the brass double female union and 3/8" male pipe to 1/2" and 3/8" male pipe to 3/8" barb fittings. This brass splice can later be covered with the 3/4" convolute plastic tubing for a totally factory look.

Once the brake vacuum hose has been re-routed, you will need to disconnect the fuel lines at the regulator in order to re-route the main engine harness behind the fuel lines. First *IMPORTANT* you must relieve fuel system pressure and use several rags around the fuel fittings when disconnecting them. I recommend you do this on a cold engine and have a fire extinguisher (preferably HALON type) nearby. To relieve fuel system pressure, follow the service manual guidelines, or disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector at the rear of the vehicle, start and run the engine until it dies, and then relieve the remaining pressure by depressing the fuel rail schrader valve, using a rag to catch the fuel that will come out.

Then proceed to disconnect the fuel line fittings with KD #3321, and wire or tape up the fuel line ends at the firewall to prevent any siphoning of fuel from the tank or dribbling out of the lines. Use the rags to catch any fuel that might dribble out. With the fuel lines now disconnected and secure, reposition the main engine harness to route behind the fuel rail fittings. Then bend both fittings to align with each other, so they project up at the same angle. I used a small screwdriver inserted in the steel lines to act as a handle for minor bending.

Now get the LH cover, and position it in place the best you can. The purpose is to get an idea of where to drill the holes in the cover for the fuel fittings to pass through. The holes will be much larger than the fittings, so you can easily remove the cover in the future and slide it up on the fuel lines without having to disconnect them. If you like, you can notch the cover later by using a hacksaw to continue the holes towards the rear, but it looks much better with just the holes and the fuel lines passing through them.

Now take the cover and drill two 7/8" holes where you estimate the fuel lines will pass through. It is OK if you are off by a little, as the steel lines can be bent slightly to center them in the holes once you put the cover back on. Now set the cover over the steel fuel lines, and check for fit, bending the lines as necessary so they are centered.

Now install the metal studs in the intake manifold. I found that it was necessary to use some 3/16" washers under the two studs on the LH side to raise them enough to get the cover to properly engage. This is only necessary for the LH cover due to the thickness of the wire and hose bundle underneath it. You will have to do some rearranging and compressing of the wire and hose bundle, to get everything to fit nicely with the cover on. In some cases you will have to file down the metal fuel regulator bracket in order to get the injector cover to seat down properly.

After the LH injector cover is in place, re-attach the fuel fittings. They are quick connect fittings and should just literally snap into place. Reconnect the fuel pump electrical connector at the back of the car and be sure the schrader valve cap is installed, then turn the key on (don't start it yet) which will pressurize the fuel system, and check for leaks.

The RH injector cover is much more easily installed than the LH side. If you are using the '92-'93 style cover (which is required if you are not changing to the Corvette plastic valvecovers), then you may need to trim it in the area where the MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) sensor is mounted at the RH side of the throttle body. Also you will likely have to bend the transmission fill tube to clear the cover at the rear. Bend the transmission dipstick tube back towards the firewall, and to the left towards the wiper motor. After tucking the wires and solenoid down into the intake manifold valley, the RH injector cover should neatly snap into place.

After the injector covers are installed, the plastic cable clips will go into the two holes in the LH cover, and hold the accelerator and cruise cables close to the cover for a neat appearance, and to prevent them from abrading against the hood insulation.

Now you can install the throttle linkage cover. You must remove the splash shield that is currently there, it will be discarded, along with the bolt that held it in. Remove the LH upper throttle body screw and attach the short "L" bracket for the linkage cover underneath it. Set the cover in place and use one of the small screws you bought to attach it to the linkage bracket.

Here's the original thread on doing this project: [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

When I did it, I bought the Corvette brake hose and adaptors and such, but after fiddling with it didn't use it. Instead I went to the local Autozone and got the correct-sized hose for our cars with one agled end, and then just cut the length to fit the best. The hose looped around by the firewall. Worked fine and looked clean.

Details in that tread above.

Again, one of my favorite mods. At the car shows and cruise-in's, it was HILARIOUS watching folks walk by the motor and do a double-take.

-Mike

Glen, Here is the complete procedure thats list on my clubs website - it should provide you with some more insite.

Wow, thanks for all the info. This is why I like these forums so much. Incredibly helpful.

Mike, I like the way you set up your vacuum hose. I wish I had not bought the Corvette hose now.

DAAAAAAAAAANG!!! Those look great Glenn! Nice touch on the throttle body cover too! Where can I snag one of those? I've been playing with the same idea too with the fuel rail covers.... nice work!

MarkH wrote:

DAAAAAAAAAANG!!! Those look great Glenn! Nice touch on the throttle body cover too! Where can I snag one of those? I've been playing with the same idea too with the fuel rail covers.... nice work!

That Buick emblem is off a LeSabre at the junk yard. If you can't find one I think I have several of them and would be glad to send one to you. Let me know. Thanks for the complements. Glenn