2021 - What did you do to your wagon this week?

On the 1994, I had to break into it.  Stopped to fill up with gas at the Co-Op at ~6:00AM, it's 21F outside with a nice 10-15MPH breeze.  Get out, shut the door, start the pump, get back in to warm up, pump clicks off, get back out, put the nozzle away, get my receipt, all doors are locked with the car running .  Must have bumped the lock switch when I got out the last time.  Wandered around and finally found an old 5 gallon bucket lying behind a building that still had the wire handle on it yet.  Straightened it out save for the hook at one end - was able to pull the passenger front door out a bit get my leatherman pliers wedged in there to pry it out further.  From there I was able to get the wire around the door seals and down to the unlock button on the door and press it.  There was ~3/4" of the wire left sticking out of the outside to manipulate - barely enough!


Found some old pink fiberglass wall insulation that was being thrown out, ~8 feet long and ~6" thick.  I used 4 pieces of this to fill both rear body cavities to try and get rid of some of the road noise since it's all rusted through back there.  It helped quite a bit so that was cheep and easy.


On the 96, I got a lot of little things done, finally feel like I'm in the home stretch with this project. I finished the trailer wiring, save for replacing one damaged connector and locating the brake controller once I get the interior all back together.











The plan was to use circuit breakers in place of the fuses so if the trailer has an issue, there's less things to deal with.  Unfortunately, I didn't consider that these wouldn't fit in the OEM fuse block due to the fact that they're thicker than the standard ATM fuse.  I considered (briefly) trying to widen the groove in the fuse block, but decided not to go down that route.  We'll just use the fuses that are in place - Fix Until Broke strikes again





I was also able to get the frame behind the grille modified and installed.  I was expecting this to be a much bigger deal than it was given the intercooler that's in there, but all in all, it went pretty easy.  I've more pictures to take of the secondary hood latch release lever and such (next time I'm in the shop).  All I really had to legitimately modify was the back side of the frame itself so it wouldn't hit the intercooler.  I cut off the excess that's behind the grille and that's really it.


Here's the before picture - this is the bottom of the frame closest to the bumper.  You can see on the right where it mounts to the triangle brace on the hood and everything (above in the picture) beyond that was cutoff square.


Here's (the other side) cutoff


And the result of how it fits with the intercooler




More pictures next week of a few more modifications and the finished product with the grille.


There are a bunch more things that aren't really picture worthy (yet) that I worked on.

Foam between the intercooler, condenser and radiator so all the air has to go through them instead of sucking in through the sides
Electronic Leveling Suspension brackets were de-rusted, painted and installed with the sensor - Link to control arm coming next weekend
Updated all the schematics for the wiring modifications so it's all in one place - This has been essential when troubleshooting or adding circuits like the trailer wiring.
Tightened the inner and outer tie rod ends to take out some play in the steering
Front inner and outer fenders were messed with a bunch to try and get some more tire clearance.  This ended in frustration with marginal (if any) improvements.  I'm considering going to a 255/55/20 tire instead of the 265/50/20 that is on there now.  It's 3/4" narrower tread and 1/4" taller in diameter.  The taller diameter is no problem (desired actually), but the extra ~3/8" on the outside will make a huge difference in clearance to the inner fender.

If anyone has tips on how to push these fenders up/out, I'm all ears.  I tried rolling the fenders with a piece of pipe between the tire and fender and all it really did was make wrinkles in the inner fender .  Not sure how the guys with 26" rims and frame dragging on the ground do it - Maybe they don't have inner fenders?  The outer fender actually has plenty of room for the tire, but the inner gets in the way since it goes in more than it goes up.

I really need to get on those wipers...and those ABS rings with 33% more teeth.

Wow. Wiring and upholstery are my two weakest automotive practices.

But, I did replace the right front ball joints and bushings on my 94 RMW while parked at the curb. Had a string of 4 days of sunshine.

The other thing I found, that the 160K miles I was thinking I had, not so. I'd replaced the instrument cluster with one I bought from Silver Fox because of issues with the speedo not working. Found that wasn't the problem, but found the original cluster - 284,657 miles.

No wonder stuff looked a little shabby. Might explain that front cover seal leak, too!

"Oscar73" Jim, did you get the transmission replaced?

Tom

Not yet...a replacement is resting in the rear of the wagon, along with a transmission jack. A 94 sedan showed up at one of the local yards...$108 plus core charge. Snagged it. Drove mine almost 500 miles that weekend...it's now like driving my 56 Special with a tri-powered 322 and Dynaflow with a 2.9 rear gear Ford 9 inch...never really shifts. Just goes.

But, I'm glad my AAA membership is paid up. LOL

But I'm researching trans parts...been reading all of Sherlock's posts over at the Impala site. checking out prices, watched the whole series on You Tube on disassembly and reassembly. And found all my snap ring pliers.

Not sure which one to rebuild...think I'll do the one IN the car and run the used one for a while. It doesn't have 300K on it.

I did find a 91-93 RMW for sale though...asking $1200, metallic blue with blue interior, original aluminum wheels., and a working dual gate. Thinking hard.

But there's that Buick Rendezvous...2004. I've never owned a vehicle built in the 21st century.

Had to replace the radiator in the wife's wagon. Started leaking I think from around the upper oil cooler port, haven't really looked into that much yet. Still have to refill the system, didn't have enough coolant on hand yesterday.
Looks to be the original radiator that was in there, has GM markings on one of the plastic tanks. I got the new one from RockAuto, cheapest one they have figured they are all made in the same Chinese factory anyway...

Got some pics of the old rad.

Date code 3/15/1995


Split in the tank next to the oil cooler fitting



other cracks forming

Ouch.

Fix until broke, assuming it's a Buick. The buicks had as standard and was also on the SS, not sure if Chevy wagons got it too, but after the engine runs for a set amount of time the doors auto lock. Doubt you bumped it.

I saw it happen as a INC event on his SS and head to wait 2 hrs for his brother to show up with spare keys while it ran the whole time.

From that point on I ALWAYS have the window down enough to reach in if I get out with the engine running

I cut a hole in my dash. For a 2x din radio

Not much of an accomplishment but a few steps in the project checked off off my list.
-Removed all of the cooling system hoses. I knew they were old but it appears their may have been some tape that was wrapped around to seal a possible leak. Marked all of the old hoses and paired up with the new. Have to order different upper and lower radiator hoses
-Back pulled the wiring the previous, previous owner had in place for some gauges and for the electronic water pump
-Sprayed down the bolts for the steering box. Intending to remove and sent to Lee for a ratio change and rebuild. Will be pulling the power steering, think it might be leaking. Will have rebuilt and the variable steering removed.

Sprocket wrote:

Fix until broke, assuming it's a Buick.  The buicks had as standard and was also on the SS, not sure if Chevy wagons got it too, but after the engine runs for a set amount of time the doors auto lock.  Doubt you bumped it.

I saw it happen as a INC event on his SS and head to wait 2 hrs for his brother to show up with spare keys while it ran the whole time.    

From that point on I ALWAYS have the window down enough to reach in if I get out with the engine running

Interesting, yes it's a 94 Buick RMW - Never had it lock the doors during other extended idle times (15+ minutes in park). I put a copy of the door lock key on the keyring that is either in my pocket or in my hand just in case this ever happens again.


Why do you have what looks like bamboo in your dash?

After driving around for the last seven months with a giant wad of carpet and insulation in the back of my 94 RMW, I took the plunge and pulled out the seats and sill plates, seat belts and installed the carpet I got out of a 94 RMS Limited.

Other than some rust on some bolts, all went well. And, got an upgrade with the Limited carpet padding. The Wagon padding was the cheap shredded foam composite, and the Limited was similar to the sound deadener in the doors, along with foil padding in appropriate places.

So, yes, you can use sedan carpet in a wagon...yay!

Fix Until Broke wrote:

Why do you have what looks like bamboo in your dash?

It is the Gilligan version, lol. The dash was on my dining room table (glass top). I wood like a bamboo dash though, that'd be cool!


In other news, I'm almost done the 2x Din install, just need to re-install the dash. I also repainted the top of the front bumper cover.

Started the rehabbing of my cooling system new hoses ,thermostat,and radiator cap . I pulled the reservoir off and I'm working on getting all of the crud out of it .The weather is starting to warm up here in Ohio so this afternoon I'm going to remove the thermostat housing and glass bead it then put everything back together minus the thermostat and give it a super flush using Blue Devil Radiator Complete Flush . I picked up a nice driver side inner fender and now after removing the reservoir and battery it looks like I'll be replacing the passenger side as well .It's got some rot under the battery tray and I am going to have them powder coated so I want nice metal to start with .In Ohio we no longer need to run a front plate so I received one Historical Plate when I registered my car and was left with the black plastic mounting for a front plate .I removed it ,gave the mounting holes a tap with a hammer (they use a self threading screw which leaves a slight raised surface and used M6/16 button head allens and Blue Loctite on the threads to fill the holes . Some clear coat rubbing compound and Mothers Carnuba Cleaner Wax to clean everything up and now I have a nice clean looking front end .

Changed the oil and washed it in. Ready for Daytona.

Drove it like I stole it from NY to RI and back, then put it back in the garage. Got stopped by state trooper in Syracuse who said my inspection sticker had expired (last November when the car went into storage!), but he really just wanted to look at the car. That's the second time I've been stopped by troopers who admitted they just wanted a closer look. He let me go with a warning. Got a new sticker the next day.

Success my reservoir tank is clean ! I tried a few different methods the last being 2 bottles of CLR straight agitated it daily then let it sit and soak for a couple of days but I still had some crud left in it . I tried the ice cubes and small rocks trick earlier but that was marginal as far as what was removed . Yesterday going through some stuff in my garage I ran across a box of bb's thought why not ? Loaded them up ,emptied some of the CLR so that the bb's would agitate and after two good shakes it cleared out the remaining mess .I'm going to soak it in bleach to try and whiten it up then proceed with my coolant system rehab .Replacement reservoirs run between 60 and 100 dollars so for less than 20 and I bit of my time I saved a good buck which I will now use for other things on the wagon

replaced my front shocks with Monroe SS. Much better

On the 1994...
- Replaced all the steering linkage - tie rod ends, sleeves, center link and idler. Nice to have a direct connection between the steering wheel and the front wheels now
-Bled/flushed the brakes at all corners - probably used 1/2 gallon of brake fluid before it cleared up and was bled. Finally have rear brakes now too which is also nice. Guessing there was some air in there?
- Sucked out and re-filled power steering fluid as well - another 1/2 gallon of fluid used. Not clear yet, but much better than the black coffee that was in both the power steering and brakes!
Made list of items to get so brake lines can be replaced (wheel cylinders, hoses, etc)

On the 1996...
- Measured the current on the digital inputs to the BCM for the wiper "converter" system that's coming
- Measured the parasitic drain on the battery - Was ~7mA but seems to have jumped up to ~11mA recently. Only able to let it sit ~30 minutes so maybe it did this before and drops down to 7mA after a longer period of time?

Pulled the Murder Wagon up on jackstands, and pulled off the left front suspension, did the right a few weeks ago.

Cut a coil off the spring to match the coil I cut off on the right hand side. Most trouble, the intermediate steering shaft, that thing is just sticky and the plastic guard just gets in the way.

Ran out of light to pop out the bushings and ball joint on the lower...I'll get it this week.

Gathering parts for the 4L60e rebuild. Down to pillow switches and wiring & solenoids, I want to make Sherlock proud...even got a chair to cut a hole in!

Nothing to strenuous, changed the belt, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Didn't look to terrible but with no history of maintenance I didn't want to chance it. I will be replacing the tired 305 (230k miles) at some point just not today, it's leaking more oil than the Exxon Valdez, had to take a bath in Gojo after.

Spent the last week or so finally stripping and polishing the rest of the aluminum woodgrain surround trim on my wagon. I started on it like three years ago and then just got a little disheartened with the results I was getting, but I'm making better time now.

After that I'm going to get the steel trim off so I can clean up the awful layers of glue the previous owner tried to use to keep the rubber on and then reattach the rubber that all fell off anyway. I think I saw some people on the Facebook group suggest some kind of 3M tape—anybody used it?

Went on a 1400 mile road trip with the AACA to to the mountains of West Virginia two weeks ago. The tour was open to vehicles from 1935-1996, there were about 90 vehicles, mostly 50's and 60's but some 30's and a bunch of 80's and 90's. Beautiful area of the country. We stayed in Canaan Valley and did day trips from there for the week. Some crazy roads with between 6 and 10 percent grades!
We drove to to the top of Spruce Knob, the highest mountain in WV. Went on a coal fired steam train up a mountain is Cass. Two engines on the train and one was built in 1928 and the other was even older. Really neat trip! We drove past the enormous Green Bank radio telescope! Saw a nice water fall on the Blackwater river. Overall a fun time.

On the 1994 - Brakes - Every line replaced with NiCu, all 3 hoses replaced and both rear slave cylinders. Front rotors/pads/calipers were new-ish when I bought the car. Tedious and unglamorous, but necessary.

On the 1996 - Nothing (again) , maybe in July...

Washed it and went to a Celebration of Life for an INC brother who passed from Covid. Jerry had a heart of gold and was always smiling. About a dozen or so INC showed up and his other friends from the Donk and Low Rider community. Great get together.

Did and oil change, then replaced the power antenna for the second time, then replaced the wiper control board for the third or fourth time...

went to The automobile gallery car show, cars and guitars, in Green Bay and between the RMW and my Pontiac Safari wagon had almost 80 people, kids and even some adults that sat in the rear facing seat and had their pictures taken.

rcktpwrd wrote:

Did and oil change, then replaced the power antenna for the second time, then replaced the wiper control board for the third or fourth time...

did you go with drop the inner wheel well method? How big of a PITA is it? I have a new antenna (old one shaft broke). need to do it, but I also need to replace that fender (dented), but the new one is green so I've been putting it all off for now...

Sprocket wrote:

rcktpwrd wrote:

Did and oil change, then replaced the power antenna for the second time, then replaced the wiper control board for the third or fourth time...

did you go with drop the inner wheel well method?  How big of a PITA is it?  I have a new antenna (old one shaft broke).   need to do it, but I also need to replace that fender (dented), but the new one is green so I've been putting it all off for now...

I removed all the bolts holding the inner fender except for a couple in the front and just pulled it back enough to squeeze my hand/arm in there to take the broken one out. This was much easier this time as the antenna was all the way down, first time the antenna was all the way up and I managed to get it out with out damaging the mast, but that was a bit more challenging!  

It helps to have someone helping when you put the new one in place. Fish the assembly into position and hold it while the other person gets the fender nut started. After that is on by a few threads have them get the door jamb bolt started, once both are engaged them you can tighten them all the way. Then fish the wires up to the engine compartment.

I think it took about a half hour or so...

This week?  Drove the wagon from Geneva NY to Franconia NH, and went kayaking on the Pemigewasset River.

Last November I was able to obtain a 96 RMW from a friend that had died in a farming accident two years prior. His wife decided it was time to part with it, and I saw the ad on FB as soon as she put it up. I had wondered what had happened to the car, but wouldn't dare ask. 75K miles on it.
Anyway, I drove it on a 2hour both ways trip a couple of weekends ago and the radiator sprung a leak. I decided that since all of it was factory original, I would replace the whole cooling system. Ordered up all the parts and took it to the shop that does my work since I had back surgery a couple of years ago, and walla! New cooling system.
I also sent a spare PCM off to be programmed for a somewhat performance tune and firmer shift points, and primarily to have the AIR pump deleted, since it was being removed during the repair work.

Since we had Monday the 5th off, I was able to schedule my Dad (80 yrs old) to help me pull the motor and transmission from my RMW.  When we purchased this back in 2017, he flew out to NY with me from MN to pick it up and drive it home.  One little project has changed into much more...mainly by choice.  All in all the car was and is in great shape.  The trans was shifting hard and we believe the rear main seal, or something in that area we leaking so we figured we could pull it all.  The trans is going to a shop to get rebuilt.  While the engine is out, will be changing out some seals/gaskets, prepping for header install (the factory manifolds removed nicely already), installing a new intake along with a cold air intake kit.  Then we will start putting it all back together.  

That is a great way to spend the day!

Was a couple of weekends ago but I finally installed the new blower motor that I bought 3 years ago.

Meanwhile in my rear-view mirror...





As seen on my cross-country drive last week.

^^ WOW

Pulled the LO3 engine from my blue OCC, because it was not running right, and a friend is going to buy it when we install his engine in it. The other day he pulled the valve covers just to see what condition the rockers were in, and found that 3 of the valves were stuck, and bent the pushrods. Now I know why it would not run right. We got his LO5 engine and a rebuilt trans in, and are getting the headers to fit. The headers are a PITA to get to fit. It is also miserable to tighten the header bolts. We ruined 2 bolts trying to get wrenches on them. Keepin' on.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

Pulled the LO3 engine from my blue OCC, because it was not running right, and a friend is going to buy it when we install his engine in it. The other day he pulled the valve covers just to see what condition the rockers were in, and found that 3 of the valves were stuck, and bent the pushrods. Now I know why it would not run right. We got his LO5 engine and a rebuilt trans in, and are getting the headers to fit. The headers are a PITA to get to fit. It is also miserable to tighten the header bolts. We ruined 2 bolts trying to get wrenches on them. Keepin' on.

Did you by chance float the valves on a burnout or other high rpm thing? It is very easy to do with older motors with stock valve springs. I couldn't believe how soft the ones were in the stock 96 LTI in the RMW. I had them replaced with the new style beehive springs when I had the head done so should be good for a long time and easier on the valve guides.

booster wrote:

Fred Kiehl wrote:

Pulled the LO3 engine from my blue OCC, because it was not running right, and a friend is going to buy it when we install his engine in it. The other day he pulled the valve covers just to see what condition the rockers were in, and found that 3 of the valves were stuck, and bent the pushrods. Now I know why it would not run right. We got his LO5 engine and a rebuilt trans in, and are getting the headers to fit. The headers are a PITA to get to fit. It is also miserable to tighten the header bolts. We ruined 2 bolts trying to get wrenches on them. Keepin' on.

Did you by chance float the valves on a burnout or other high rpm thing?  It is very easy to do with older motors with stock valve springs.  I couldn't believe how soft the ones were in the stock 96 LTI in the RMW.  I had them replaced with the new style beehive springs when I had the head done so should be good for a long time and easier on the valve guides.

No high speed float. It was not started for a couple of years, and when it was, it ran poorly. Had I suspected the valve sticking issue, I would have replaced the heads, and sold it as is.

well just got new white stripe tires on my 94 rmw last week, after having had to wait two weeks for the shop to get the tires after I got a screw in one of the old tires and there wasn't enough tread left to warrant getting it patched.

Also watch out if you get any reconditioned steel rims from keystone, had bought a total of four, sent two back because of obvious problems, took the remaining two in to the shop when they put the new tires on to have the best two of the old tires on them only to find out that both those rims had bends in them, the shop managed to get them straight enough for them to still work for full size spares but sure as heck am not happy with keystones quality, though I got them through rockauto.


Though now if I can only get the set of chevy suburban rally rims cleaned up and repainted I could have a real nice look on the car as my stock aluminum rims are starting to really show the corrosion.

Action packed week...painted the inside of the new (to me) '96 doors to get them ready to install on the Murder Wagon...hinges too.

Then, decided it was time to drop the old transmission, and install my home rebuild...scary time, but I went back and forth re-doing things a few times, just to make sure I get stuff right. I mean, if Sherlock can do it, why not me? LOL

So exhaust and driveshaft are out, cats are out (left cat O2 wasn't even plugged in), but the upper left bolt in the torque converter cover is stuck. Like really tight, round off the corners stuck. Looks like I'll need to get out the death wheel and cut either the head off, or cut the shield around it.

And, while I've got a weather window, going to anti-squeak the front discs, install left side spark plugs, and rear lower control arm bushings.

Yay, me!

Oscar73 wrote:

Action packed week...painted the inside of the new (to me) '96 doors to get them ready to install on the Murder Wagon...hinges too.

Then, decided it was time to drop the old transmission, and install my home rebuild...scary time, but I went back and forth re-doing things a few times, just to make sure I get stuff right. I mean, if Sherlock can do it, why not me? LOL

So exhaust and driveshaft are out, cats are out (left cat O2 wasn't even plugged in), but the upper left bolt in the torque converter cover is stuck. Like really tight, round off the corners stuck. Looks like I'll need to get out the death wheel and cut either the head off, or cut the shield around it.

And, while I've got a weather window, going to anti-squeak the front discs, install left side spark plugs, and rear lower control arm bushings.

Yay, me!

Try some "Freeze Off" on the screw, and then try to remove it. Do not spare the Freeze Off. Yoy can get screw removal sockets that have left hand cutting threads in them.

Fred, either it was the Freeze-Off or hitting the socket with a hammer and waving the death wheel at it to scare it, but that bolt came right out... it was all the others that fought me. Trans tube bolted to the back of the head, and non-metric fittings on the cooler lines. Took a few minutes to figure that out.

But trans is finally out. Appears it was out in the mid rwenty-teens, there a sticker on the converter with a date of 2013,

Lots of metal in the pan, so it was due. Now, to reverse the process.

Oscar73 wrote:

Fred, either it was the Freeze-Off or hitting the socket with a hammer and waving the death wheel at it to scare it, but that bolt came right out... it was all the others that fought me. Trans tube bolted to the back of the head, and non-metric fittings on the cooler lines. Took a few minutes to figure that out.

But trans is finally out. Appears it was out in the mid rwenty-teens, there a sticker on the converter with a date of 2013,

Lots of metal in the pan, so it was due. Now, to reverse the process.

My brother used some Freeze Off on a stuck O2 sensor, and it became almost finger tight after application. That stuff really works. I have used it on almost all stuck, rusty bolts, and nuts with great success.

Today I almost lost mine.

Was on the way to work when I noticed the check gauge light come on and see the temperature gauge pegged to the right. Since I wasn't far from home I just turned around and headed back. Steam rolling out from under the hood and out the AC vents at every stop. Made it back to the house and shut it off while it coasted into the driveway. Could here whatever coolant was in it just boiling away and steam shooting out of the reservoir.

Grabbed wife's car and headed to work where it was going to rain all day. Find out that daughter wrecked her car and the house we are trying be cannot be insured because of the roof (got to love Florida). So I said F it and left early.

Got home, checked car and the oil was good and had no water, no oil in reservoir. Washed coolant away under the hood and filled up the cooling system. Engine fired right up and runs just fine. No coolant being pushed out of the reservoir at idle or while revving.

I figure the Thermostat is stuck closed so I hopped online and ordered a new one plus a new Water Pump just to be safe.

Stupid old cars

Spent the entire week putting trans back in. Tough to do with no feet,,,but, it's in! of course a couple things walked off.

What size (thread count) is that big nut on the stud of the transmission mount?

Took some work with the ol' Harbor Freight manual trans jack, one unsuccessful try (converter wasn't all the way in) came back and walked it in...even spaced the converter/flywheel gap.

Now, just driveshaft, exhaust to cats, and fill it full of fluid. Oh, and find a cotter pin for the shift linkage.

Did a 'repair' on the rear bumper cover. There is a section that was torn out and flapping in the breeze. I initially was trying to plastic weld it back in place but the urethane wouldn't allow for that to work... So I ended up using some zipties.

I have had linelocks plumbed in my wagon for years, I finally got the electric run to it . I have a trailblazer shifter handle that has a button on the side of it originally for traction control now for antitraction control. The 1st time I tried it I got nothing hit it with a rubber mallet and all is good. I forgot how much fun they can be. The next thing is my hood and grill project.

After my adventures in overheating the car sat until the parts finally arrived, Shipping stuff is terrible right now and everything was delayed for days. My guess on the Thermostat was wrong so I pulled the Water Pump and quickly realized that was sort of wrong as well.

Instead after 221,700 miles of service my water pump drive gave up. The drag from the 4 year old water pump was too much for the drive gear and coupler.



Coupler would just spin on the gear, other side was still in good shape but it was very loose on the shaft so just tossing a new one on was not a risk I was willing to take. At the point I had to decide if I wanted to junk the car (seriously) or fix it. We close on a house on the 5th so the car can't just sit around waiting for me.

I went with fix but needed to decide how. Time consuming and expensive. Have to pull oil pan and take front of engine apart to change the drive. Used drives are a crap shoot and a new one is available on eBay for $200. Other option is expensive but quick.

I went with quick and bought a Meziere Electric Water Pump. Since my water pump had a small but annoying seep at one of the steel inserts ordering a new one wasn't a total waste. Just wish I had not went with the more expensive Delco pump.

You have to remove front cover from pump and take out the bearing/seal/impeller. EWP comes with a 1 1/8" freeze plug to put in place of seal. That plug doesn't work well with the new Delco pump that has a tiny lip for the seal while everything else has a wide one. I didn't like the idea of just sealing against a small part so I ground away the lip and installed 1 3/16" plug instead.



After that you just bolt the EWP in place off the front cover.



Once that is done I just installed a relay from Painless Wiring. People normally use the switched wire from their long since removed A.I.R pump but I deleted mine via the PCM so the plug never powers up. Instead I used the wire from my long since removed ABS pump. Mounted relay to firewall and ran the wires along the harness over the intake.





Filled it up with coolant and took it for a spin. All good to go once everything was bled. Going to wire in a small LED light for the dash. Simple piece of mind that lets me know the pump is running.

After two trips in the dark I remembered that I needed to install my LED head light bulbs. You think the lights on these cars are mediocre try installing smoked ones. LED made one hell of a difference and now I can finally see in the dark.