2023 - What did you do to your wagon this week?

After many delays, and a budget windows laptop, a software update from a member, used JET Dynamic Spectrum Tuner product to calibrate my speedometer. It's right on the mark now. Plans for new rear gears probably come summer. Moving slowly, this is my daily driver, I need to keep it on the road. Any suggestions for learning more about tuning?

Try removing the speed limiter in the computer.

Isurf wrote:

After many delays, and a budget windows laptop, a software update from a member, used JET Dynamic Spectrum Tuner product to calibrate my speedometer. It's right on the mark now. Plans for new rear gears probably come summer. Moving slowly, this is my daily driver, I need to keep it on the road. Any suggestions for learning more about tuning?

This is a great site, and he does tunes also if you want.  The site instructions don't cover everything but does catch a lot of it.

Tuning link

Booster,
Many thanks for the DST upgrade file. It made a big difference.

Tom

Isurf wrote:

After many delays, and a budget windows laptop, a software update from a member, used JET Dynamic Spectrum Tuner product to calibrate my speedometer. It's right on the mark now. Plans for new rear gears probably come summer. Moving slowly, this is my daily driver, I need to keep it on the road. Any suggestions for learning more about tuning?

Odd, but my odb2 reader now displays: 40 mph, when both speedometer and GPS display: 50 mph. It used to be right on pace with the speedometer.

Boy, after reading all these posts I fell so ...small. Replaced left side "resonator" with a left side resonator.

Isurf wrote:

Isurf wrote:

After many delays, and a budget windows laptop, a software update from a member, used JET Dynamic Spectrum Tuner product to calibrate my speedometer. It's right on the mark now. Plans for new rear gears probably come summer. Moving slowly, this is my daily driver, I need to keep it on the road. Any suggestions for learning more about tuning?

Odd, but my odb2 reader now displays: 40 mph, when both speedometer and GPS display: 50 mph. It used to be right on pace with the speedometer.

I missed this when it was posted as I had a lot going on.

I think some of the OBDII readers use the processed data after the pcm and some use probably use raw data from the sensor or something similar is going on. I did the speedo in my 96 RMW and I am sure I would notice the difference but don't recall anything being odd. I will look when the snow melts and roads clear of salt in probably another month. I have a Scangauge in mine and it does have a speedo correction you can do in it also.

booster wrote:

Isurf wrote:

Isurf wrote:

After many delays, and a budget windows laptop, a software update from a member, used JET Dynamic Spectrum Tuner product to calibrate my speedometer. It's right on the mark now. Plans for new rear gears probably come summer. Moving slowly, this is my daily driver, I need to keep it on the road. Any suggestions for learning more about tuning?

Odd, but my odb2 reader now displays: 40 mph, when both speedometer and GPS display: 50 mph. It used to be right on pace with the speedometer.

I missed this when it was posted as I had a lot going on.

I think some of the OBDII readers use the processed data after the pcm and some use probably use raw data from the sensor or something similar is going on.  I did the speedo in my 96 RMW and I am sure I would notice the difference but don't recall anything being odd.  I will look when the snow melts and roads clear of salt in probably another month.  I have a Scangauge in mine and it does have a speedo correction you can do in it also.

No big, I was kind of amused. GPS agrees with the speedometer. That works for me.

Over the past several weeks I've been replacing my engine mounts, repairing/replacing my inner fenders, and installing a complete coil over suspension using SpeedTech, Global West and Hotchkis parts. Almost ready to finish up the front end. Then to the rear, set the ride height and a corner balance, alignment and see how it drives!

nudnac59 wrote:

Over the past several weeks I've been replacing my engine mounts, repairing/replacing my inner fenders, and installing a complete coil over suspension using SpeedTech, Global West and Hotchkis parts. Almost ready to finish up the front end. Then to the rear, set the ride height and a corner balance, alignment and see how it drives!

What did you use for motor mounts? It appears all of them now are the same Chinese made ones, including the Delco ones. That have had a bit of a reputation for failing quickly from all I could find on them. I went with urethane mounts go into the clamshells and they are really nice with very little engine movement, but no vibration coming through them. I did drill some small holes through them as that will soften them a bit so that may have helped the vibration. The engine is also very well balanced.

booster wrote:

nudnac59 wrote:

Over the past several weeks I've been replacing my engine mounts, repairing/replacing my inner fenders, and installing a complete coil over suspension using SpeedTech, Global West and Hotchkis parts. Almost ready to finish up the front end. Then to the rear, set the ride height and a corner balance, alignment and see how it drives!

What did you use for motor mounts?  It appears all of them now are the same Chinese made ones, including the Delco ones.  That have had a bit of a reputation for failing quickly from all I could find on them.  I went with urethane mounts go into the clamshells and they are really nice with very little engine movement, but no vibration coming through them.  I did drill some small holes through them as that will soften them a bit so that may have helped the vibration.  The engine is also very well balanced.

The part I used is also from China… unfortunately!. Really hoping it doesn't fail quickly! Here's the part # 71221014HKR.

I was driving home from the grocery store Friday, and had an unusual issue. The power steering pulley decided to self destruct. About 1/4 of the circumference ripped loose and folded back on itself, shredding the belt. Fortunately a friend was available and helped get a puller, and parts. It took about 2 hours of running around for parts and the tools. The tool requires 4 wrench sizes to remove and install the pulley.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

I was driving home from the grocery store Friday, and had an unusual issue. The power steering pulley decided to self destruct. About 1/4 of the circumference ripped loose and folded back on itself, shredding the belt. Fortunately a friend was available and helped get a puller, and parts. It took about 2 hours of running around for parts and the tools. The tool requires 4 wrench sizes to remove and install the pulley.

WOW

I am continuing my suspension rebuild. Mission creep is still evident in my garage. I now have half the exhaust on the ground and i have to figure out what exhaust I'll put in. Suggestions? The diff is out of the car, cleaned up and undercoated, new hard brake lines. Removing as much rust and loose scale in the wheel wells and undercoating those, the frame and underside of the car. The front suspension is buttoned up and just needs the grease gun on all the joints and control arms. I'll see about posting some photos as soon as I can.

Dave

I pulled my wagon out Friday from its winter nap and gave it a bath. I took it for a nice ride

Fred Kiehl wrote:

Fred Kiehl wrote:

I was driving home from the grocery store Friday, and had an unusual issue. The power steering pulley decided to self destruct. About 1/4 of the circumference ripped loose and folded back on itself, shredding the belt. Fortunately a friend was available and helped get a puller, and parts. It took about 2 hours of running around for parts and the tools. The tool requires 4 wrench sizes to remove and install the pulley.

Thats pretty crazy!

Any ideas on what the cause was?

I have seen that exact thing happen to pullies when somebody has tried to remove them with the wrong puller or a pry bar. The breakage doesn't even have to happen at the time as a tiny crack or nick in the cast iron can propagate slowly after that and show up much later.

I relined my front brakes on the White Elephant, and found that one pad vanished. I had to replace the right rotor because it ground down the surface. The squealers did not make any noise to warn me of the impending pad wearthrough. I also repaired the right rear brake from an earlier incident with a wheel almost coming off.
I picked up a set of COYS wheels at the local PNP junkyard, and put them on. They are 17 inch with 255-50 Hankook tires. They have Allstar "hidden" valve stems with caps over the in-wheel fitting. I must get the screw-in valve stem, and it should be here on Tuesday. Until then, I am running low tire pressure on all 4 tires.

I had the heater flow restrictor plastic thingy break while driving home. I got all the plastic bits out and pulled off the aluminum crimp end and got a brass barb and two hose clamps and put it back together.

Also changed all my plugs. I really need to do the wires but what a PITA that is (have done it before)...

finally got around to putting a different rear window on my 94 rmw to replace the original that had severe scratching from previous owners using the rear wiper but apparently never figuring out how to replace the blade when the rubber part broke down ending with metal on glass.

We went out to the store today and the car wouldn't start when we went to go home! The starter briefly engaged and made a really weird noise like something dead shorted! Interior lights were on and the gauges were working but the speedo/digital part went dark. Called a friend to bring us home. Ordered a new battery and hopped into another vehicle and off to the parts store. They tested the old battery and said it was dead. Picked up the new battery and back to the stranded car. Popped in the new battery and it fired right up and off we went.

Finally finished up my coil over suspension install, set the ride height and am now waiting for my alignment date to take care of the front end. Can't wait to see how this thing handles and tuning the shocks!

I repaired the leaking washer fluid container using two methods. First, I did some plastic welding and melted a piece of a white ziptie into the hole. That almost worked, still had a tiny leak, so I covered the area with some JB Weld for plastic. Seems to be good now.

We also swapped out the wiper arms with ones we got from the junk yard a while back. I think they came of a Bonneville or something similar, whatever has been referenced here and on the Impala site as good replacements. They look decent enough and the double sprayers work nicely.

have a 21" blade on the passenger side and a 22" on the driver side.

I put a new cap and rotor on it this past weekend. I got it state inspected and put 4 different tires on it today. My old tires where dry rotted they are from 2006. still had good tread but just old. I was not driving to wagonfest with them on it.

rcktpwrd wrote:

Fred Kiehl wrote:

Fred Kiehl wrote:

I was driving home from the grocery store Friday, and had an unusual issue. The power steering pulley decided to self destruct. ....

Thats pretty crazy!

Any ideas on what the cause was?

Oh my! Just wow.

r67northern wrote:

rcktpwrd wrote:

Fred Kiehl wrote:

Fred Kiehl wrote:

I was driving home from the grocery store Friday, and had an unusual issue. The power steering pulley decided to self destruct. ....

Thats pretty crazy!

Any ideas on what the cause was?

Oh my!  Just wow.

The funniest thing is that my power steering fluid leak has stopped.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

r67northern wrote:

rcktpwrd wrote:

Fred Kiehl wrote:

Fred Kiehl wrote:

I was driving home from the grocery store Friday, and had an unusual issue. The power steering pulley decided to self destruct. ....

Thats pretty crazy!

Any ideas on what the cause was?

Oh my!  Just wow.

The funniest thing is that my power steering fluid leak has stopped.

The two things are probably related.

Best bet is somebody in the past tried to use a puller or a hammer on the outside of the pulley and bent, partially cracked it. Over time the wobble and crack finally let go. The wobble would make the seal leak a bit.

I believe that metal fatigue and corrosion are the culprits. I also connected the dots on the fluid leak. The distortion of the pulley varied the tension of the belt causing the pump shaft to wobble, thus the seal to loose contact with the shaft. The broken part finally separated from the disk, and folded back cutting the belt. When removed the broken part was facing the opposite direction to the direction of rotation.

Just ripped the front panel off the dash, pulled the radio, put out small fire in wire at back of radio.

Mess of melted wires, is there any chance this part of the wire harness can be unplugged and replaced?

Now frustrated, going to bed

Photo of radio mess

https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=9987539271316172&set=gm.2408748009309830&idorvanity=212237968960856

Pic won't work for me.
What caused the short? It should be fused but who knows. The parts book for my '92 OCC shows a single instrument panel harness for everything.

91 and 92/93 are different. The 91 has the wiper motor wired differently, and a couple other quirks. 94 to 96 do not work with the 91 to 93s.

Radio guy says it's because I put a switch in the signal to the power antenna. I spliced into the wire and added a toggle switch so the antenna wouldn't go up if I didn't want it to. Could that be true?

You always put switches on the ground side. That way the switch does not heat up.

I put wagon away for winter. It's a little early this year. This coming Tuesday I am getting a operation to fix my torn  Achilles tendon.

Just got back from our annual trip to Hershey, Pa for the AACA fall nationals. The wagon was on the show field again and there were a few other wagons there as well.

I drove mine 70 miles each way to go surfing and down a muddy unpaved road full of pot holes for the last 200 feet. Got a bunch of mud and sand in the carpet too. Oh and I saw a partial eclipse as well.

Good times.

New battery (6 yrs old and dead as a fart).  Then a trip to Home Depot to pick up two 36"X80" doors for a renovation project.   Same old story:

"Do you want them delivered?"  
"No, I have my car here."
"I doubt they'll fit"
"I think they will, I'll go get it."
'"HOLY SH*T!"
"I'll be back tomorrow for some drywall."

Finally got around to installing the 99 Grand Am mirrors I got like a year ago.




Will install the ps next weekend.

Got the ps mirror installed today.

I drove her over to the storage place and put my baby to bed for the winter.

My oldest son and I did a two-day weekend road course event at Barber Motorsports Park in Birmingham, AL.

We were the slowest car out there. My son went out first; he'd never driven the wagon before (my fault) so this was his first time in it, and going fast.  


From then on, we got a lot smarter (started at the back of the line so we could have more track time to ourselves), and faster.


This car has aftermarket springs, swaybars, Bilstein 1104/929 shocks, headers, no cats (only for racing), every cooler the factory offered, an added power steering cooler, racing brake pads and fluid, rebuilt valvebody in the transmission, and tons of maintenance and durability mods throughout.  2.56 open rear was no problem on the track; we ran the whole course in L2 (3000-5600rpm). I would not run one of these stock on a road course. But this car ran great all weekend, and we got thumbs up from everybody at the track.

Between rounds, we went around apologizing for how slow the car was, and everybody said "oh no, you were really good about giving us point-by's (slower cars must give permission to pass); those pesky miata owners would never let us pass!"  hah.

That is so awesome! The car looks amazing out there on track!