Brake overhaul

Finished the brake overhaul new everything (except master cylinder ) including lines . The pedal is not as firm as I would like but I'm going to drive it a bit to seat the shoes and pads then flush the lines again one more thing off my to do list .

I did my rears and front all new hardware and flushed the lines. I too was expecting a much better feel from the brake pedal. Could it be the vacuum issue?

spending the money on one of the brake buddy bleeding tools was worth it's weight, seems to work better than the old have a friend pump the pedal option....

""I too was expecting a much better feel from the brake pedal. ""

If you were expecting a "harder" feel from your brake system, the vacuum booster is probably not an issue. Spongy feeling pedals are most always caused by air trapped in the labyrinthine ABS system or master cylinder.

I have one of those brake buddy tools on this rebuild I used a set of Russell Speed Bleeders which really work well and are inexpensive 25 bucks for a complete set from Summit . Haven't had a chance to drive it much as I'm working on some other things cooling system overhaul  and interior freshen up before the weather starts getting cold here in Ohio and the car gets stored for the winter . My other wagon a 93 seemed to have a much firmer brake feel could that be because this one has an ABS system ? Thank you for the replies !

not sure if it applies to our b bodies with abs, but I do know that some abs systems require special bleeding procedures to get all the air out.

Any idea on how to do this or where to find the info ?

On my 94 RMW when I replaced all the brake lines a few months ago, I gravity bled them which took care of 90% of it. Then closed all the bleeders, opened the right rear (furthest from the master) and used a syringe to suck out any remaining air. Move to the left rear, right front and then finally left front.

Brake pedal is firm and stock brakes working great.

Random link to a syringe for example...Having a translucent option helps see any bubbles as well as getting clear fluid if yours is dark.

https://www.toolsource.com/fluid-evacuators-c-370_766/automotive-fluid-filler-extraction-syringe-1500cc-p-147048.html

Handy thing about one of these tools is that they have a lot of other uses too. Most farm and barn type stores will have plastic syringes (~60cc if I remember) in the animal medicine section that you can buy for a dollar and throw away when you're done (seals will break down) as another option.

Fix Until Broke wrote:

On my 94 RMW when I replaced all the brake lines a few months ago, I gravity bled them which took care of 90% of it.  Then closed all the bleeders, opened the right rear (furthest from the master) and used a syringe to suck out any remaining air.  Move to the left rear, right front and then finally left front.

Brake pedal is firm and stock brakes working great.

Random link to a syringe for example...Having a translucent option helps see any bubbles as well as getting clear fluid if yours is dark.

https://www.toolsource.com/fluid-evacuators-c-370_766/automotive-fluid-filler-extraction-syringe-1500cc-p-147048.html

Handy thing about one of these tools is that they have a lot of other uses too.  Most farm and barn type stores will have plastic syringes (~60cc if I remember) in the animal medicine section that you can buy for a dollar and throw away when you're done (seals will break down) as another option.

Gravity. The best bleeding tool there is.

Agreed - this works for the vast majority of brake systems.