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 Molding help

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SCbarber

SCbarber


Posts : 113
Join date : 2009-12-20
Age : 51
Location : Lexington, SC

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PostSubject: Molding help   Molding help Icon_minitimeSat Aug 21, 2010 9:28 pm

The thick molding on the bottom of my drivers door had some of the glue release and will not open the door all the way because it gets stuck in the crack where the front fender starts (or ends). I need to reglue this and not sure what will hold. Tried Gorilla super glue but had no luck. The remaining glue I can see is like a sticky white marshmellow type adhesive, any idea what will set fast and hold this in so I can get my door open all the way?? Thanks.
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PostSubject: Re: Molding help   Molding help Icon_minitimeSat Aug 21, 2010 10:06 pm

JB weld?
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SCbarber

SCbarber


Posts : 113
Join date : 2009-12-20
Age : 51
Location : Lexington, SC

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PostSubject: Re: Molding help   Molding help Icon_minitimeSun Aug 22, 2010 11:14 am

Well, the thing is I have to push the molding in once applied and keep holding it till it sets, I think JB weld takes to long to set. If the molding is not "pushed and held" into place, it will just let loose again.
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phastlt1




Posts : 147
Join date : 2010-02-20
Location : Columbus, IN

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PostSubject: Re: Molding help   Molding help Icon_minitimeSun Aug 22, 2010 12:08 pm

May possibly want to try 3M auto emblem adhesive?
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BigBlackBeaSSt

BigBlackBeaSSt


Posts : 4560
Join date : 2009-08-01
Age : 59
Location : Sanford, NC

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PostSubject: Re: Molding help   Molding help Icon_minitimeSun Aug 22, 2010 12:53 pm

3M Trim adhesive is what I would use. It comes in a tube packaged in a black box with red writing at Autozone.

Tim
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SCbarber

SCbarber


Posts : 113
Join date : 2009-12-20
Age : 51
Location : Lexington, SC

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PostSubject: Re: Molding help   Molding help Icon_minitimeSun Aug 22, 2010 12:56 pm

Ok, I will pick some up. Thanks.
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BigBlackBeaSSt

BigBlackBeaSSt


Posts : 4560
Join date : 2009-08-01
Age : 59
Location : Sanford, NC

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PostSubject: Re: Molding help   Molding help Icon_minitimeSun Aug 22, 2010 1:03 pm

Use a little painters tape to hold it in place as it dries.... Good luck....
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phantom 309

phantom 309


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PostSubject: Re: Molding help   Molding help Icon_minitimeSun Aug 22, 2010 3:10 pm

Take the whole moulding off with a heat gun,. clean the back of it with alcohol, till there is abosolutely NO eveidence or traces of the old adhesive,. do the same to the door,.
take a scotch padd to the door and the adhesive,. (lightly on the door to just haze it slightly,. rough up the trim as much as you want,. apply the adhesive go drink a coffee,.
then stick it on and as was mentioned use masking tape at 90deg about every 4 ins to hold it in place,.

Nick
fishing line sawed back and forth between the molding and the door is the best way to remove the piece without taking paint along with it,.
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SCbarber

SCbarber


Posts : 113
Join date : 2009-12-20
Age : 51
Location : Lexington, SC

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PostSubject: Re: Molding help   Molding help Icon_minitimeSun Aug 22, 2010 3:33 pm

Its only a very small corner that is getting caught Nick...lol not worth all that trouble. To the above, I only saw gasket adhesive as well as fabric made my 3m anyone got a link to that 3m stuff? Thanks.
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BigBlackBeaSSt

BigBlackBeaSSt


Posts : 4560
Join date : 2009-08-01
Age : 59
Location : Sanford, NC

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PostSubject: Re: Molding help   Molding help Icon_minitimeSun Aug 22, 2010 4:57 pm

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SCbarber

SCbarber


Posts : 113
Join date : 2009-12-20
Age : 51
Location : Lexington, SC

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PostSubject: Re: Molding help   Molding help Icon_minitimeSun Aug 22, 2010 8:24 pm

ok I saw that but did not think it was strong enough to hold a heavy rubber molding. Keep in mind I have an OCC.
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Fred Kiehl

Fred Kiehl


Posts : 7283
Join date : 2009-11-13
Age : 76
Location : Largo, FL 33774

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PostSubject: Re: Molding help   Molding help Icon_minitimeSun Aug 22, 2010 9:38 pm

The top of the front of the molding is held on by a phillips head screw which screws into an insert in the trim panel. If the insert is loose/screw is missing (it is what your situation describes) you need the parts mentioned above. I will look to see if I have them tomorrow or Tuesday. The lower mount is a metal bracket bolted to the door, and there are push fasteners (like the ones that hold the front bumper on, only smaller) that hold the trim to the bracket.

I have a 91 OCC and that is the way they are mounted. I can check my 92 later this week to see if they are the same. There are some differences between the two years if what I have heard is true.
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SCbarber

SCbarber


Posts : 113
Join date : 2009-12-20
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Location : Lexington, SC

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PostSubject: Re: Molding help   Molding help Icon_minitimeMon Aug 23, 2010 2:44 pm

Fred, no place for a screw, this is the thick molding under the black thin one that is on the bottom of the car and butts up against the front fender.
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Fred Kiehl

Fred Kiehl


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Join date : 2009-11-13
Age : 76
Location : Largo, FL 33774

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PostSubject: Re: Molding help   Molding help Icon_minitimeTue Aug 24, 2010 12:46 am

The molding is all one piece. There is no seperate thin black piece. I remember that it is attached by the stainless strip at the top of the trim with a screw at the front and rear. The stainless strip is attached to the trim with heat melted tabs. The stainless trim also covers the white push connectors that hold the top of the trim to the door. The screw is from the inside front lip of the door. The bottom is attached to a metal strip which is has a nut holding it near the bottom front edge (and rear) of the door also on the inside. As far as I can remember, the 4 screws/nuts, the white push connectors, and the push to lock fasteners on the bottom are the only things that hold the trim on the door.

I went out and examined mine before I wrote the previous post.
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SCbarber

SCbarber


Posts : 113
Join date : 2009-12-20
Age : 51
Location : Lexington, SC

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PostSubject: Re: Molding help   Molding help Icon_minitimeMon Aug 30, 2010 10:03 pm

Molding has been reglued and seems to be holding fine. Thanks for the replies.
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