Cruise Control Issues?

Not sure where this would go so I'll put it in general discussion.

Anyway: I was on my way to work today (yes, Jay, WORK. WOOHOO! ) and I got on the highway. I set cruise at about 75 and it was okay for about 2 minutes - then it would go out. I figured that was odd, so I turned it back on. It was fine until I would hit a hill (we do have those in Florida, but not many LOL) and it would go out again. I could hit resume and it would click back on, but it wouldn't STAY on. On the way home I basically said to hell with it and just drove with my own foot.

What would cause that? I learned from my rear window shenanigans a few months ago that the rear window controls whether or not cruise "works", and I was able to save my 3rd brake light assembly. Should I start by cleaning the contacts on it and the gate? What do you clean those with? I've heard mention of doing it but I don't know what with. Is there something else I can check?

Sorry for being long-winded, but there you have it. Thanks for the help.

Typically that means the worm gear inside the cruise control box (on the fenderwell) has gone or is going bad. Hit your salvage yards and buy another. LT1 and TBI boxes are the same BUT the cable is longer on the LT1 box.

I have had similar symptoms that went away when I changed or cleaned the contacts in the stalk. Be careful, contact cleaner takes the paint (writing) off of the plastic......

You mean there's supposed to be writing on that thing? :p


lol I kid. Mike will the box from any B-body work? Is it wagon specific? Caprice specific? Do you have a picture? I'm pretty slow in this department lol

Congrats on the job!

The cruise box is bolted to the driver's inner fender. Silver bottom, black plastic top. About 4"x6". One electrical connector, and a connector for the cable that goes to the throttle body. You take the bolts out from underneath. You can get them without jacking up the car. The electrical connector is easy to remove, but the throttle cable is a pain. You have to squeeze the tabs and slide it back. Then, you will see the lead inside that you have to disconnect from the cable. Torx screws to take the plastic top off, and then you can check for stripped gears.

Good luck...

Damn torx!

Glad I bought that set a month or so ago instead of the individual sockets. Now to find time next week to get out there. I don't work again until Saturday so it's okay if I wait a bit on running to the yard.

I had a malfunctioning brake switch. Mine would stay in cruise for while then just drop out. Easy to replace...pull the old brake switch out, push the new one in until it bottoms on the brake arm. Cheap too.

Got a part number for it? That might be my problem. I KNOW cruise works, it just cuts out sometimes after a few minutes of use. Other times it could be fine for hours. Wouldn't a stripped gear mean no cruise at all, or it would stop after the same amount of time always? I don't know, just throwing it out there.

I do not have a part number, I got it at the local parts store.

I had the same problem. Turned out to be the switch itself. I replaced the complete turn signal switch (incl cruise control) and away was my problem.
(i know what you mean, nu fun pulling a trailer uphill when the cruise goes out....)

Fortunately, I don't have to deal with pulling a trailer with it - I just load the car up with all my crap on its own and it's enough space.

For now, that is