Olds Smog 307 to '71 Rocket 350 Engine Swap

Some news here. I'd called this guy over the holiday and let him know I didn't want that engine and trans. I flat do not have room for it. He sent me an e-mail that he'll sell me the parts off the engine for $50! Woo Hoo! So I'm going down to San Antonio this Saturday to strip the alternator and p/s pump mounts and harmonic balancer, nab the pulleys, and get the exhaust manifolds.

Anyone want to pass on advice on the easiest way to pull that harmonic balancer on the garage floor there?? I just KNOW it's going to give me fits.

After getting these parts I'm going to hit Pick-N-Pull and Wrench-A-Part for an exhaust crossover pipe and the a/c compressor mounts.

With a little luck by Sat evening I'll have all the parts I need to get on this engine swap. It's long overdue!

Will take pics of anything cool at the salvage yards.

-Mike

take a duck foot puller with you,.jam something in the holes of the flywheel, to stop crank rotating, or a decent set of vice grips roll the motor on its flywheel with balancer standing up facing the roof,.
take a breaker bar and a HEAVY hammer, use a 6 point socket, smack the breaker bar hard and fast to loosen the bolt,.pull the balancer with the puller,.

Nick

phantom 309 wrote:

take a duck foot puller with you,.jam something in the holes of the flywheel, to stop crank rotating, or a decent set of vice grips roll the motor on its flywheel with balancer standing up facing the roof,.
take a breaker bar and a HEAVY hammer, use a 6 point socket, smack the breaker bar hard and fast to loosen the bolt,.pull the balancer with the puller,.

Nick

Thanks Nick! Will do just that.

-Mike

With all your toys.you dont have a cordless impact wrench?Just happen to have one for sale Mike!
Jim

Flasheroo wrote:

With all your toys.you dont have a cordless impact wrench?Just happen to have one for sale Mike!
Jim

I have an air compressor in my garage.....cordless scares me, but would be nice in this instance!

UPDATE: A guy called me from out in Taylor, he saw my wanted add on Craigslist, and he's got a 79 Trans Am with the Olds 403. He just put headers on it.

I ran over at lunch ad got the stock iron manifolds, crossover pipe, and pipe that goes to the converter, all for $30!! Woo-Hoo! Alll are in really nice shape, clean Texas metal. and the crossover pipe is even new, it's still shiny.

Not saying much since it's still a 2-into-1 exhaust, but the 403's had the largest manifold passenges of all the Olds small-blocks, and now I've almost got all the parts I need for the 350 swap. I'm excited.

Tomorrow I'm off to San Antonio to get the alternator, a/c compressor, and p/s pump mounts and harmonic balancer (I hope it comes off!), nab the pulleys, and get some cheap used valve covers so I can degrease the rebuilt engine for Olds gold paint.

I'm almost ready to start yanking the 307!

-Mike

Black or bright gold??

The correct color gold engine paint for the 350 is not easy to find now. Year One had it for $30 a can, and I need two cans. That's out of my budget....

So I can either use Dupli-Color Engine paint, which is a BRIGHT GOLD, or just use black, which would look stock for an '88 Cutlass....the 307's were black.

I could also go blue....can still get the light blue late 70's Olds color, but it would not be correct for the engine or the car..

Thoughts?? I do not want my Cutlass to look.....ghetto. BUT I'd like to be able to tell there is a real '71 350 in there.

-Mike

Sounds like things are coming together nicely Mike.What color is the 307?Nice score on the 403
manifolds too.Please not a ghetto gold like someone elses wagon engine is!
Jim

Flasheroo wrote:

Sounds like things are coming together nicely Mike.What color is the 307?Nice score on the 403
manifolds too.Please not a ghetto gold like someone elses wagon engine is!
Jim

The 307 that's coming out is black. GM went to black on all these in the early 80's.

My Dad is pushing me to paint it black too. It would show less dirt. We'll see...

mike just go black, keep it original looking

buickestate wrote:

mike just go black, keep it original looking

I'm leaning that way....

I did order chrome valve covers for it. Dorky but could not swap the engine without a little shine under the hood. Will be putting correct vintage '71 Olds 350 valve cover decals on them though.

-Mike

Dont recall,what distributor are you going to use?I remember the prenious owner wanted his
back.
Jim

Flasheroo wrote:

Dont recall,what distributor are you going to use?I remember the prenious owner wanted his
back.
Jim

Since the car has to go through full inspection one more year I'm keeping the 307 distributor, carb, and all the electrical hooked up, for now. I am removing the smog pump and hoses, which has no effect on the ECM and cleans up a lot of the mess under the hood.

Starting to get excited finally. I'm driving the knocking 307 Cutlass down to Troung's shop this afternoon and picking up my Roady from all it's suspension work.

This weekend I'm planning to yank that 307 like a rotten tooth! Going to pressure wash the engine compartment and re-paint the firewall and some other stuff before dropping in the "new" '71 Olds 350.

As for that 350, been getting it ready to go as well. Pressure washed it really well, and then pulled the intake and oil pan to give it a look-see.

The inside of the motor looks GREAT! No sludge in the oil pan, valley between the heads was clean, no gunk in the oil pickup screen, and I can see it has a double-roller timing chain. Crank and cam are clean, looks like it was a good rebuild and can't wait to hear it run in my Cutlass.

Here's some pics I took this morning. I re-bolted the intake on, put some junk plugs and some salvage yard 307 valve covers on it, getting it ready to paint the block. I'm in the middle of sanding down the oil pan. Planning to put a coat of paint on the oil pan, then bolt it on and paint the entire engine, which will be a 2nd coat on the pan.

Engine is going to be semi-gloss black...I could not find the correct gold and do not want it to look like a bright gold nugget under there....which is the only Gold engine color the local parts stores have, so black it will be. I already have chrome valve covers for it, and will use the factory air cleaner with a chrome lid and Rocket 350 decal.

Going to take the Edelbrock intake off again after painting the engine black, and paint it with high-heat cast-coat aluminum paint. I only bolted it back in for now to keep overspray paint from getting in the motor.

I've already painted the front brackets I nabbed black, and the exhaust manifolds are now black as well. I'm using a 1979 Trans Am 403 exhaust manifold on the driver's side to get rid of the heat riser, along with the 403 crossover pipe. On the passenger side I'm using an early 80's cast-iron 307 manifold. Have to use that to retain the single 02 sensor, it has the bung in it. It honestly looks as large as the 403 manifold, and besides, after emissions next year I many just yank it all for headers and duals. This is just to get the engine up and going in place of the factory 307.

Here's some pre-paint pics of the 1971 "Rocket" 350. I also took some pics of the numbers in case anyone wants to tell me exactly what I have. I do know it has #7 heads, which are supposed to be among the better ones to have on these, from what I've read.

De-greased, pressure washed and waiting for it's first coat of semi-glass balck!




Edelbrock intake. Will be painting it cast-coat aluminum color.


#7 heads, and some other numbers on the heads:



Numbers on back of the block by the distributor hole


Numbers on the front of the block


Will post updated pics as soon as the motor is painted. Coming along! Finally!

-Mike

Hmmmm.. According to this link the block is from a 68-70 model, even though it came out of a 71 Cutlass. ID code 2, '68-'70, 350, Casting # 395558 - http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofblk.htm

Looking up heads... http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofhed.htm#Heads

#7 model 409147, 64cc Combustion Camber, 1.880, 1.995 Intake Valve, 1.567, 1.624 Exhaust Valve

All 1971 350's use #7 heads. Valve springs were different depending on application. Rotator style spring retainers were used on ONLY the exhaust springs. Induction hardened valve seats for use with unleaded fuel.

Sounds like I'll have a nice setup!

-Mike

WOOHOO the gutlass cutlass will soon no longer be gutlass.And a new/old 350,all painted and shiny too.Coming together nicely Mike.
Jim

Flasheroo wrote:

WOOHOO the gutlass cutlass will soon no longer be gutlass.And a new/old 350,all painted and shiny too.Coming together nicely Mike.
Jim

I wonder how long my 200R4 trans will hold up behind it??? Ha! Also am watching Craigslist for a used Monte Carlo SS or Grand National rear end. My car has 2.53's in the back now I believe. I guess with such a tall rear gear at least the mpg with the 350 will not be too terrible...but I know that will still really hurt my performance off the line...not that I'll race the car, it's just a cruiser...but a new rear and good dual exhaust are in it's future for sure.

Little-by-little!

-Mike

Mike ,you dont abuse your cars but I would keep you know who out of the cutlass and the roady.
With that gear your mileage may improve if you drive it gently.
Jim

Edit: D'oh, you looked the number up. lol


Get it in the car, Mike!!

Here's Eddie standing next to the Cutlass last night, for it's final drive under 307 power (307 power... ).

ANYWAY we made it the 15 miles to the shop, but it was scary! Car fired right up and had over 40psi on the gauge. Eddie rode with me and Misty and Tuck followed.

Got on the highway and watched the gauge drop from 40 to 30 to 20 and then head for the red. Took my exit and BAM got stuck at a LONG light. As soon as I came to a stop the gauge dropped to zero, and VERY BAD SOUNDS began to come from up front.

I popped the car into neutral and gave it some gas and the gauge moved from zero into the red...but not above it. FINALLY after what seemed forever the light changed, and clanging away we made it the last mile to Troung's shop.

I was never so happy to shut a car off.

SO it's backed in and locked up behind his gate, waiting for the cherry-picker to pull the 307.

Oh Man!

-Mike

Mike,what are you doing with the 307?Gettind rid of it or fixing it and storing it away?Glad you made it to the shop!
Jim

Flasheroo wrote:

Mike,what are you doing with the 307?Gettind rid of it or fixing it and storing it away?Glad you made it to the shop!
Jim

I don't think having a matching-numbers '88 Cutlass will ever mean very much, so most likely will put the 307 on Craigslist and see if someone wants it for parts....cheap. You never know! Would make a good core or could be rebuilt. I'm taking everything off the front, the carb, and starter, flywheel, and such for the swap.

Made some good headway this weekend! Engine is all painted and ready to be taken to the shop.

Pics!







And coming together!




Can't wait to hear it run again!

-Mike

Oh and here's the tag number from below the head on the block: 32R18284..and one I can't read


Interesting breakdown....
3 = Oldsmobile
2 = 1972 ...? So my heads are 71 and block is 72? Confusing...
R = Arlington Assembly (Texas engine from new!)
18284 = Last digits of car's VIN #

Couple of update pics from the shop. Have not been able to get down there much lately, but 307 is about ready to come out. Still will have to paint then engine bay, and then will drop the 350 in.





-Mike

when you get the 307 out,. pull the rocker covers and see if the drain back holes are filled with sludge,
and personally i'd add the s10 converter to the trans and put a kit in it,. and the bigger servo,.

Nick

phantom 309 wrote:

when you get the 307 out,. pull the rocker covers and see if the drain back holes are filled with sludge,
and personally i'd add the s10 converter to the trans and put a kit in it,. and the bigger servo,.

Nick

An S-10 converter to the 200R4 trans? Have not heard about doing that..

I was thinking about sending the trans to the local shop, just to have it bench tested before putting in the 350.

Will pull the 307's valve covers as well.

-Mike

Cool swap but a Rocket 350 should be gold. Corporate black is as bad as that nasty 70's-80's era corporate blue. Repaint it GOLD!

81X11 wrote:

phantom 309 wrote:

when you get the 307 out,. pull the rocker covers and see if the drain back holes are filled with sludge,
and personally i'd add the s10 converter to the trans and put a kit in it,. and the bigger servo,.

Nick

An S-10 converter to the 200R4 trans? Have not heard about doing that..

I was thinking about sending the trans to the local shop, just to have it bench tested before putting in the 350.

Will pull the 307's valve covers as well.

-Mike

sorry thought it was a 7 00r4

i,d definitely put the kit in the trans tho,..

nick

GN1220 wrote:

Cool swap but a Rocket 350 should be gold. Corporate black is as bad as that nasty 70's-80's era corporate blue. Repaint it GOLD!

I could not find the right color gold, short of ordering it for $30-per-can from Year One. The parts stores only have a "bling" gold that's totally the wrong color. That's the main reason I went to black.

-Mike

That's more than a 30 dollar mistake!

Fix it while there's still time.

Google sez: Check Plasti-kote Cadillac gold. It is a little bright at first, but it mellows out after a couple of days and check Dupli-color Ford gold. It is very close.

Yeah Mike GOLD. You will be (or should be) kicking your self later if you leave it black.

Mike

Shipping paint through Amazon is nuts, but maybe these will give you some ideas that you haven't thought of.

http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DE1604-Ceramic-Universal-Engine/dp/B00296BAZW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1331587864&sr=1-1

http://www.amazon.com/VHT-Temperature-Engine-Paint-Aerosol/dp/B005HQ41CA/ref=sr_1_16?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1331587864&sr=1-16

http://www.amazon.com/POR-15-Engine-Paint-Pint-OLDS/dp/B000GJGYU0/ref=sr_1_20?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1331587864&sr=1-20

http://www.amazon.com/PlastiKote-223-Universal-Engine-Enamel/dp/B000CPI03C/ref=sr_1_28?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1331588002&sr=1-28

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/enginePaint/ - This is all I can find at the local stores. I bought a can of the Universal Gold, and it's blinding. Looks ghetto.....

It took two cans to paint the engine black, and I frankly don't want to spend $60 plus shipping for the Olds paint. If anyone has other ideas, I'm open!

-Mike

Mike, are there any auto body supply companies near you? There is one here in town that can get just about any kind of auto paint you can imagine. If you want, I can give you their contact info but I'm not sure they can ship you paint.

Ya'll are killing me....I've already sealed the engine!

Black?


Gold!


Mike

http://www.amazon.com/POR-15-Engine-Paint-Pint-OLDS/dp/B000GJGYU0/ref=sr_1_20?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1331587864&sr=1-20


Gets my vote.


Amazon has everything, man. EVERYTHING. And that's sold by TCP Global. I'd trust that company for anything you'd need. They're good people.

I would paint the engine gold and then put W-31 stickers on the fenders. Either the '70 style or the late 70's - early 80's style

these weren't much of a car compared to my 70,.

Ok the guilt trip is wearing me down. I've been talking to Olds folks and am told VHT #sp-132 Universal Gold works well. Not perfectly correct, but less metallic than the Dupli-Color gold AutoZone sells.

About $8 a can. What do you think? Do I need to pull the intake and valve covers off and re-paint the block....?

Nothing like pressure from friends....



Here's the only two pics I can find of it on someone's cars



This is what I had purchased at Autozone...it looked VERY wrong!


-Mike

That'll work! Now DOOOOO IT!

(Glad to have helped)

I think the black looks fine. Absolutely correct in that car since no Olds engine was painted gold after 1973. In '74 they went to dark metallic blue, then in '77 went to GM corporate blue, then in '83 went to black. Black also radiates heat better.

On top of that each time that gold flakes, which it will, there's the black under it. AND....the oily grease that every Olds engine likes to seep out matches black much better than gold.

That's my case for keeping it black

gold shows the oil leaks much better,..

Nick

I LIKE the black.

You guys that like the black probably LOVE the red heater hoses too

Uh... This is Mike were talking about here, oil leaks will be wiped up pronto, and he will have touch up paint at the ready, I'm sure.

Mike

I can't see you worrying about the 'correct' color. You've got all sorts of aftermarket stuff on it anyways, so the 'numbers matching' crowd will have no use for you. Do what YOU wanna do to it.

Thanks all.. We'll see.