How to: Need help programming remote keyfob

I'm having a problem programming a keyfob remote. Its really finding the wire that needs to be connnected to the ground so i can start the programming mode, can someone please help me!!!

Pull the cover off the inside left tire area. The wire is up by the left taillight.

Its about 3 or 4 different connectors is the wit connected to something or is it just sitting there? Hate to be a pain but i seen a video on youtube but couldnt find the wire he was using

Just hanging there, nothing connected.

Man i must b blind or just plain o dumb because i do not see the darn thing lol

Both My 96's have the connector in the drivers side D Pillar.

Open your tailgate window and pull back the plastic molding a bit. Mine are both between the rubber and the plastic just slightly below the strut mount.

It's a black connector with two wires going into it. One white one black.

I usually stick the door key of one of the keyset I am programming or a screwdriver into the connector to ground out the pins.

The doors will unlock and lock. (This blanks the memory in the unit and makes it ready to receive two new remotes. It can only handle two programmed remotes.)

Keep the pins grounded.

Press a button on the remote. The locks will cycle acknowledging the remote.

Then if you have a second press a button on it.

The locks will cycle to acknowledge they see the second remote.

Once complete pull the key or screwdriver from the connector setting the new remotes into memory and ending the programming mode.

Test your remotes to make sure it's all working. (It should be if the locks cycled during programming)

Damn it's that easy? I need to get a fob for my wagon... Anyone know where it is on a sedan?

Yachdriver is correct and it's soooo easy on the LT1 wagons.

In the sedans it's the same connector and in the trunk. Been a while since I've done one but it's either along the wiring harness on the drivers quarter panel or up near the same side trunk lid hinge.

TBI cars are behind the left cargo area cover as jayoldschool mentioned. That one has to be grounded to the body.

MAy be a stupid question, but.....can I use a remote on a 91 caprice wagon? It has power locks. But I don't know if a remote was availible for this model?

See if you can find the box in the drivers rear quarter. If the box is there it has keyless entry. It should be right about where the gas tank door is on the wheel well.

If memory serves correctly, the keyless entry was not available on the Caprice wagons. Optional on the Custom cruisers and standard on Buicks.

Yes, the keyless module is over the wheel well on the left side under the cargo area plastic.

I added keyelss entry (and remote start) to my '92 Olds. Wasn't expensive since it has power locks. Probably better to do this anyway as the TRW keyless module on the TBI cars was junk. I have probably 6 of them in my shed and none work. Whatever change they made to the LT1 modules was far more reliable.

Thanks guys i appreciate it i had some time to look at it yesterday im gonna see if i can get back to it today im actually still waiting for my keypad to come in the mail i just wanted to know when i get the exactly what im gonna do so im gonna try n get in there today and see if i can find it

DBeaSST i had a auto start and everything in my last caprice wagon but it kept killing my starter i just want everything original like of the showroom floor down to da plastic keychain the gave you at the dealer back in 96 i was doing a ss clone with my caprice but this time im switching it up and just make it fresh and stock like i just bought at a buick dealer so i wanted the original keyfob but thanks for help you will see me alot on here from now on since i have a rmw now but see you guys around if i need more help with this damn thing i will post something again lol and again thnls a bunch fellas

Hey fellas i just got my leypad in the mail and went again to look for it and no luck i see the box but no pin to ground and i dont know what a d pillar is someone please help me i want to get this program so bad

MrGadget215,
The D pillar is the Last pillar on a wagon.

A Pillar is the windshield pillar.

B Pillar is the center door Pillar.

C Pillar is behind the rear doors.

D pillar is the last upright holding the roof up. (Sedan's don't have a D Pillar)

If you peel back the plastic trim on the D pillar (drivers side) that is up against the rubber hatch seal. Somewhere 1/2 way between the bottom and top you will find your connector floating around in there. Mine always seem to be just below the window strut mount.

Hope this helps.

Yachtdriver thanks so much i read your last post and couldnt figure it out so i googled it and while you were repling i was programming thanks to you man thanks so much dude i really appreciate it to the fullest have a good day and i have some more questions but i will bug you giys another time about them

So i googled remote reprogramming,. got the buick forum,. it all sorta looked good,.
even a pic from the FSM.so  i removed the lock box,. no wire by the remote because its an LT1 car,. but no connector hanging by the tail light either,.

So poked around on the net some more and finally foiund this thread and voila,

exactly where doug said,.

There needs to be a sticky made up with concise instructions and clear pictures,.for LT1 cars and TBI cars,.
seeing as Mr gadget can now open his doors remotely, he hasn't returned,.

If ordering new remote tranmitters, you have to make sure the numbers match the installed receiver. GM mixed and matched -- you can't necessarily go by the model and year to get a match. If you have one working transmitter, then there's no problem: simply go by the FCC ID # on the back. It is in the format of "ABOxxxxT" (the third digit is a capital O, not a zero, and xxxx are numerals). If you don't have any remote, there should be a sticker on the receiver itself (remove the rear glovebox panel and look near the rear DS speaker) with a very similar format of "ABOxxxxR". Just replace the final "R" with a "T" and you should have your required transmitter FCC ID#.

Don't Ask Me How I Know This (tm). Suffice it to say that I have a pair of remotes that were advertised on eBay as being for a 95 Roadmaster but don't work with mine.

I wish mine came with keyless entry, but I guess I'll just put in something aftermarket. Maybe I'll go P.K.E.

buickwagon wrote:

If ordering new remote tranmitters, you have to make sure the numbers match the installed receiver. GM mixed and matched -- you can't necessarily go by the model and year to get a match. If you have one working transmitter, then there's no problem: simply go by the FCC ID # on the back. It is in the format of "ABOxxxxT" (the third digit is a capital O, not a zero, and xxxx are numerals). If you don't have any remote, there should be a sticker on the receiver itself (remove the rear glovebox panel and look near the rear DS speaker) with a very similar format of "ABOxxxxR". Just replace the final "R" with a "T" and you should have your required transmitter FCC ID#.

Don't Ask Me How I Know This (tm). Suffice it to say that I have a pair of remotes that were advertised on eBay as being for a 95 Roadmaster but don't work with mine.

i just programmed an unknown origin remote,. it works fine,..

At first i was not keeping the two pins grounded the whole time,.i just grounded them then let go, erroneously thinking the box stayed in programming mode,.after reading a little more thoroughly and focusing,. i grounded the pins with the ignition key, and programmed both remotes in 10 secs,. ez pz,.

nick

THATS WHY WE NEED A STICKY,... MODS

Just another update:

Captain obvious wanted to ad a little to this thread and keep it visible,.

CHECK the batteries in any remote you wish to program,. buying batteries at the dollar store guarantees you that they will look clean and shiny ,. but they will not necessarily be any good,.

*sigh* sometimes its the most simple obvious things in life i have so much trouble with,.

after switching KNOWN good batteries around i have my choice of 4 remotes that can work with this car,..


DOH!!

Out of curiosity, what are the FCC ID numbers on the back? Do they all match? I was told that ABO103T and ABO104T can interchange. Just wondering if it's true and if there are any others.

TRW remote numbers,,.

1,2,3, fobs are all ABO 0104T
4 fob is ABO 0116T,....... its the one i use,.car IS a 95

i had to put on really big specs to see these,..

and i just survived "The case of the vanishing remote"

The 2nd remote is kept in the spare key tin,. my wee girl stuck a piece of masking tape on it with 'orange beast' written on it,.i peeled the masking tape back to read the number,.i put it down to go read the remote on the parts car,. and it disappeared!!
After everybody pulling out couch cushions ,. calling dad a moron etc,. and after lifting up the laptop numerous times and replacing on the arm of the couch,. i finally found it when i moved the laptop to the table, and realised the laptop wouldn't sit down properly,. and turned it over to find the remote nicely stuck to the bottom of it,.AAAAARGH!
The remote is again labeled properly and residing in the tin,. and my wife is trying to be nice to me again,..Grrrrrrrr.

phantom 309 wrote:

i have my choice of 4 remotes that can work with this car,..

Where you able to program all 4 at once, or is it any 2 of the 4 at a time?

Backstory: My second set of keys disappeared (I suspect my youngest grandson may be involved). I ordered another pair of transmitters on eBay, which arrived today. I took all 3 (the remaining one and the two fresh ones) out to the car but can only seem to program 2 of them at a time. It doesn't matter what order I try, it will accept the first two but not a third.

I thought you could program 4 at a time, but may be confused with another car. The FSM is not specific -- at one place it talks about taking the "remaining transmitters" (plural) to the dealer when ordering a replacement, but in the actual programming section it only mentions programming the remaining transmitter (singular).

Here's a Youtube video on how to program the remotes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98fhEzYCZ3Q

-Mike

You can only have 2 remotes programmed at any one time. At least that is what I have experienced.

I have tried 3. The first two will cycle the locks. The third does nothing. I remember reading this somewhere but I don't have the link handy.

phantom 309 wrote:

TRW remote numbers,,.

1,2,3, fobs are all ABO 0104T
4 fob is ABO 0116T,....... its the one i use,.car IS a 95

i had to put on really big specs to see these,..

and i just survived "The case of the vanishing remote"

The 2nd remote is kept in the spare key tin,. my wee girl stuck a piece of masking tape on it with 'orange beast' written on it,.i peeled the masking tape back to read the number,.i put it down to go read the remote on the parts car,. and it disappeared!!
After everybody pulling out couch cushions ,. calling dad a moron etc,. and after lifting up the laptop numerous times and replacing on the arm of the couch,. i finally found it when i moved the laptop to the table, and realised the laptop wouldn't sit down properly,. and turned it over to find the remote nicely stuck to the bottom of it,.AAAAARGH!
The remote is again labeled properly and residing in the tin,. and my wife is trying to be nice to me again,..Grrrrrrrr.

I swear something like this happens to me at least once a day, usually with my glasses, phone, or keys. I've learned not to put something next to me cause it's convenient, then I walk away and my glasses are now on a shelf in the garage where I'll never find them.

Anyway, thanks for this info, looking forward to reprogramming my remote tomorrow!

I'm gonna second the sticky idea. I got my fob tonight and went through hell trying to find the connector. Woulda never found it without this thread. Thanks anyway y'all.

Okay, I'll join in on the hunt for the wire!!

I have been through everything I can find on the drivers side, rear, of my wagon and I can't find anything that even looks remotely like this picture!! Exactly where in the vehicle is this panel? Thanks



The black box on mine is half way between the tail light and the radio speaker!

That picture is taken with the window open. The wire is behind the trim piece next to the window. Mine was there.

Thanks,  I'll take another look tomorrow!!!  

It seems the correct answer is:  some place on the left rear of the wagon!!!

Most are on the left, and the 91s are on the right.

Eyorspt wrote:

Thanks,  I'll take another look tomorrow!!!  

It seems the correct answer is:  some place on the left rear of the wagon!!!

open the rear glass,..

halfway up the pillar, above the top of the tailgate

pull trim outwards a little and inwards towards the center of the car,.

Then you will be matching the picture posted,.

I have done althese to no avail. I own a 1995 Wagon. Any other suggestions? The only two wires in the D-pillar go to the pillar lights.

Chris

Skier wrote:

I have done althese to no avail.  I own a 1995 Wagon.  Any other suggestions?  The only two wires in the D-pillar go to the pillar lights.

Chris

There were some wagons that did not have remote lock/unlock. Is your car a Caprice or a Roadmaster. You can check your SPID for AU0, that designates remote lock/unlock.

I have a Buick RMW but no AU0. I thought all Buicks came with remote locks. I will now need to have an aftermarket reomte installed.

Chris

I have a 92 RMW without AU0, so they are not all that uncommon.

The Remote Keyless entry option cost $135.00 for 1996. Since my car does not have this option I am taking it to Murry Auto Electric near Delmont PA to have it installed for $200.00. They want the Key FOBs I got off E-Bay, they may work better. This price is probably no more in constant dollars than when the car was new.

Dang guys! I am swithcing from a 93 to a 94. Checked a website that sells key fobs and the instructions for the 93 and 94 were identical. so I tore into the 94, which was kind of easy when I got those remotes. Guess what, no programming terminal in the back wheelwell! checked and forum and like magic there were pictures and the skies opened up! Click, Click, done. wow that was easy!

Thanks!

Derp.  I bought two 1996 Buick remotes off eBay, and only then discovered I have one of the rarer 1996 Roadmaster Wagons without keyless entry (No AU0 code on the SPID.

Frequently wrong,never in doubt.

Does anybody need a pair of Buick keyless remotes? See me at Wagonfest.

I'm also having trouble programming my 1991 Roadmaster wagon. The car has 50,000 original miles and I found the key fob in the glove box, unopened, and still in it's original packaging (perfect condition inside and out). I replaced the batteries because I figured the ones from 1991 were long since dead. I found the lead wire on the RIGHT side compartment where the spare tire is (1991 only), above the taillight (I checked the left side first and found nothing in the D pillar or behind the lockable storage compartment). It is a single wire connector. I connected alligator clips to the connector pin and grounded it to a piece of metal on the side of the car. It went through the lock cycle as it should, but nothing happened with the remote when I pushed a button. I tried several times, pushing different buttons, but nothing. I tried disconnecting the battery of the car for 30 seconds and starting over, but nothing.

I did get the lock and unlock buttons to work (not the rear window button) on the fob only when I had the key turned to the 'on' position, but it stopped working immediately after turning the key off (it also never confirmed the programming by going through the lock cycle after pushing a button, the lock & unlock just started working shortly after pressing the button... with the key in the on position). Seems like the TRW system is clearing correctly. The key fob can work at times, but why can I not get it to program correctly? Please help!

Here's what I did:
- clipped the pin on the wire
- clipped other end to ground (lock cycle performed by car)
- pressed a button
- No lock cycle response from key fob
- unclipped wire
- not programmed

Make sure the batteries are in correctly. Try it with another car, if you can, or try another transmitter with your car. You may have a bad receiver. The receiver should have gray connectors. It will also work with a receiver with green connectors, but not the one with black connectors. I keep spares of all color connectors. I also have extra transmitters. If you want to use your new case, the insides are easy to transplant from a known working unit.

It may have been in the glove box because it never worked.

Thanks so much for helping me troubleshoot this! I'll double check the batteries, but since it worked with the key on, I assume they are in correctly. I've been wrong before though. When you say gray & green connectors, are you talking about the wired connector dangling on the car, because mine is black.

The connectors on the end of the receiver module behind the panel with the storage bin.

Skier wrote:

I have done althese to no avail.  I own a 1995 Wagon.  Any other suggestions?  The only two wires in the D-pillar go to the pillar lights.

Chris

My 95 RMW also has no fob programming connector. After removing the trim/box, the black/white wire goes to ground. And now the window release is dead, must use key. AND there was 1" of fresh water sitting in the quarter, no obvious vent leak.

I guess it's a unicorn pond ghost.

The water may be coming in under the roof rack frame rail. There is a body seam under the edge. The sealant gets old and brittle, then it leaks. It runs down the headliner, and exits at the grab handle. After gouging out the old sealant, I used regular roof sealant/cement to fill the channel to about 3/8 inch from the top. I smoothed it with a vinyl/silicone glove on my hand. You can tape both sides, and pull the tape off before it sets. If you make it too full, the roof rack will not fit.

The fob programming connector may be on the passenger's side.

Hello, i have the same problem on my 1994 caprice wagon.I can’t found the wire anywhere to program my key fob. Can I do something with the OBD computer ?
I have an alarm on the car, and when I disconnect and reconnect the battery, the alarm comes on and I can’t stop it.
Thank you for your help

The wire is on the left side of the car near the rear wheelhouse.