Programming keyless entry remote/fob....???

Does anyone know how to program a keyless entry key fob remote to another car? I recently got another one and don't know what to do to get it work on my car?

There's a connector behind the DS D-pillar plastic. Pull the plastic away a little and you will see it there. Short the connector with a screw driver or even a key and the locks should cycle. Once that happens press one button on each of the remotes you want paired to that car. The locks should cycle after you press the button. Once your done just disconnect whatever you used to short the connector. Any remotes paired prior to this will not function after this.

95BRMW wrote:

There's a connector behind the DS D-pillar plastic. Pull the plastic away a little and you will see it there. Short the connector with a screw driver or even a key and the locks should cycle. Once that happens press one button on each of the remotes you want paired to that car. The locks should cycle after you press the button. Once your done just disconnect whatever you used to short the connector. Any remotes paired prior to this will not function after this.

THe current remote can be reprogrammed along with the new one, correct? And by D-pillar you mean the very last pillar by tailgate? Also do i press both remotes at the same time?

First of all, compare the FCC-ID numbers on the back of your existing fob and the replacement. If they do not match, you cannot use the replacement, even if it looks like the same style.

buickwagon wrote:

First of all, compare the FCC-ID numbers on the back of your existing fob and the replacement. If they do not match, you cannot use the replacement, even if it looks like the same style.

I've checked that and they do match. But this brings me to my next question.... how do I get a second ignition key made? I only have one set and it obviously has the chip in it? Where do I find the code to get another?

Test the resistance of the key with a multimeter, go to locksmith and specify key resistance. With your own resistance value in hand, you may also be able to source a key from eBay for cheaper (or at the very least, one with real GM logos on it).

What if I don't have a multimeter? Lol

Then you need to start buying new cars with warranties

^^^or get handier.

Or clip coupons for Harbor Freight and wait for a cheapie free one with purchase. lol

Nice

You could always try taking the key to WalMart and seeing if they'll measure it.

Relax Adam most of the big chains like Tru Value have a key reader.They will swipe your key to get the correct resistance and then just make you your keys!

jimbeau wrote:

^^^or get handier.

jimbeau,heard all about your idea of what handier means and no heterosexual male would even want to be in the same room with you when you get "handier".

To answer your question aobut pressing both remote buttons at the same time . . . . No you program one remote then the other. After you've shorted the wire press a button on the first remote you want to program. if the locks cycle its programed. Then press a button on the second remote, if the locks cycle it's programed too. Done

It's really quite easy. When I bought Ms. Roadie the remotes didn't work, needed new batteries and reprogramming. I went to Autozone to have the batteries tested and replaced. The dude waves the remote in front of that tester thingamabob while pressing buttons to verify the batteries are dead. He then proceeds to open up my remote and remove the battery, and the SOB broke my remote. I'm right there watching this dumb ass as he brakes the little metal terminals for the battery off the circuit board. And the little Ba$tard tries to tell me it was already broken, like I didn't just watch him break it. Long story short, I was able to fix the remote, install new batteries, and reprogram both of my Fobs.

Moral of the story: Don't let dumb dumb's work on things that require the touch of a delicate hand. And remember to be really careful when removing the battery.

Is there a time limit of any kind before the computer goes out of programming mode?
or it stays in as long as the shorting bar is attached?

No time limit as long as the the controller stays shorted to ground!

Hey guys, d pillar at the back ? confused, any pics have the same problem would like to use the remote from recently wrecked 93 to the wifes newer 96 or buy one , maybe that way I could get her to lock the doors

Hey guys, d pillar at the back ? confused, any pics have the same problem would like to use the remote from recently wrecked 93 to the wifes newer 96 or buy one , maybe that way I could get her to lock the doors

The roof supports are lettered from A to D from front to rear. So "D pillar" refers to the vertical piece next to the rear tailgate. The programming connector is about half-way up the driver's side D pillar and can be accessed by gently prying the plastic to one side.

And if the numbers on the fobs don't match the 93 fob won't work. Make sure the numbers match before buying a replacement.

thanks don't have a key fob for the 96 replacement roadie, but thought I would try and give it a shot, Will remotes bought of ebay , ect work and wouldn't I have the same fcc numbers, to find for the 96?

anyone have a pic of where? I peeled the panel back a few times and don't see any loose wires

I ordered fobs from ebay ($12.88 for a pair) and installed new batteries (CR2016 x 2 per fob). Here are the pictures from my programming this morning:

1. Just pull the d-pillar trim (tan in my car) away from the rubber in the circled area below.



2. Reach in and grab this black two pin connector. It is just hanging out there all by its lonesome.



3. I shorted the circuit using the ignition key.



Notes

• You do not need to remove the inner trim like I did. I already had it out to clean and liked that you can see the RKE module in the photos.
  
• Program both fobs in a session. If you do just one, the other one will be erased.
  
• My Grandma always said that I should be a hand model. I guess that I missed my true calling.
  

Cheers,
Brian

I know this thread is old, but I'm just starting into this..... My OCC came to me without remotes or any indication that keyless entry is present..... The SPID cod AUO indicates "remote Locks", so I found the module atop the left wheelwell.... No extra harness wires are hanging from the module or the left d-pillar, but I DID find a black/white wire had an intentional bare spot.... Referring back to the FSM, it says the black/white wire IS the programming connector, which you ground for programming, but it gives the location for the end of the wire as behind the RIGHT SIDE d-pillar plastic (which for now I'll assume is correct)
Since I don't have fobs to match up, which number on the module label might indicate what fob I need? There is a number : model/fcc id:ab00103r and another: DOC:218 K681

Thats where the program wire is located on my 91 OCC,the passenger side.As far as the remotes go the only one I ever got to work was the one that came with the car and it used a screw to hold the sides together.I bought some off of ebay that never would program for me.

I have some OEM remotes for RM and OCC. They probably need batteries. I bought a bunch of batteries on ebay really cheap. I have a separate remote for each car with me, and one for both cars, that I keep at home.

I have yet to try it, but I heard that if you lock your keys in the car, and call home on your cell phone, the remote will work through the phone, if you point the it toward the car (that is, provided someone is at home when you call, and they push the unlock button).

Fred Kiehl wrote:

I have yet to try it, but I heard that if you lock your keys in the car, and call home on your cell phone, the remote will work through the phone, if you point the it toward the car (that is, provided someone is at home when you call, and they push the unlock button).

I think whomever told you that was tugging pretty hard on your leg. My remote transmits at 315MHz, one of the bands designated "Fixed Mobile" by the FCC. There's a large block of those bands from 225 to 328.6MHz. Your landline phone at home is not radio based unless you have a cordless phone, in which case it operates in one of the 1.7, 43-50, 900MHz, 1.9, 2.4, or 5.8GHz bands. Cell phones transmit in 800, 850, 1700, 1900 and 2100 MHz bands. None of the above considers AM vs FM, etc.

I see no reasonable way for the home phone to detect the radio signal from the remote or for the cell phone to transmit the signal to the car, even if there was a way for the phone system to carry the modulated signal that identifies the specific remote.

I keep a spare door key in my wallet. Sometimes simple is better.

None the less, someone should try it, just in case it works. It would be interesting to find out if it is true, or not.

AzDon, The model/FCC OBO 0103R number is what you want to pay attention to for grabbing the correct remote. If you find a GM keyless entry fob with that number on the back it should work with your module. I think the the R will be a T on the fob though. so look for a 0103T. Just a quick search brought this site up that sells replacement modules.

I called the local Chevy dealer (we don't have an Olds dealer here, LOL) and was told by the friendly parts guy that theres only one remote available for 91 OCC, and that he could order it in for $90.... current part number 88959920 and gave me a "footnote number" 12522338......... I went to keylessremotefob.com and found remote number 12522338 fit an olds bravada...... The FCC id is: MODEL / FCC ID: ABO 0116T (different than whats on my reciever) and DOC # is: DOC / MDC: 218 K1200 (also different)
I got voice mail when I called them, but I'm gonna talk to someone before ordering...
I tried a different site and used "olds 88" as the model search and came up with this: http://www.remotesandkeys.com/Articles.asp?ID=2480
Note that it is the current part number that the dealer gave me and has the same FCC id listed as my reciever (except has a "T" on the end instead of an "R", Maybe for "transmitter"?) and also lists the FCC number as the 12522338 remote on the other site....

Here you go: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/MATCHED-PAIR-OEM-1991-1996-OLDSMOBILE-KEYLESS-REMOTE-ENTRY-FOBS-REMOTES-ABO0104T-/290966725662?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bef7e41e&vxp=mtr

(note that the listing says FCC ID : ABO0104T or ABO0103T, so you might want to clarify which it is first. But $12 for a pair beats the dealer's price)

I used my 95 SS remote on my 92 RMW, worked perfectly.

Great ebay find! I'm gonna pull the trigger on this!

Looking at a couple of other sources, ABO104T and ABO103T may be interchangable. (BTW: my 95 RMW uses the ABO104T, so if it doesn't work on your car, somebody here may be able to use it.)

The receiver in my car is ABO0103R (I'm guessing R is for receiver) so I think these are the exact remotes I need.....They will either work or they wont!

Update--I got the Ebay remotes and went to program the reciever module.....Found the programming wire right where it is supposed to be (the the base of the d-pillar in the spare tire well) Shorted it to ground , AAAND...... nothing! The car wont do the lock/unlock thing when grounded as described.... Checked the voltage on the programming wire and it's 6.7 volts, as called for in the FSM......The next step the FSM calls for is replacing the module..... I'm so bummed!

AzDon wrote:

Update--I got the Ebay remotes and went to program the reciever module.....Found the programming wire right where it is supposed to be (the the base of the d-pillar in the spare tire well) Shorted it to ground , AAAND...... nothing! The car wont do the lock/unlock thing when grounded as described.... Checked the voltage on the programming wire and it's 6.7 volts, as called for in the FSM......The next step the FSM calls for is replacing the module..... I'm so bummed!

Make sure you are getting a good ground. Try a couple of different places. I may have a couple of modules.

Yeah, the ground wire is good (that was one of the tests also) The FSM doesnt specify any further troubleshooting past checking input voltage, ground and voltage on the programming wire. It just says to replace module......Youve got a module you might sell?

I know you said the connector is getting the correct voltage but; Could that bare spot on the black/white wire on the drivers side be causing a problem when trying to short the connector on the passenger side? Have you tried shorting the wire from that bare spot yet? Just a thought, I would try this before replacing the hole module.

I did consider the bare spot and tried grounding both simultaneously, but thanks for the input! (I welcome any help that could solve a problem!!)
I'm going to go back and re-probe the connectors because there are four different power input wires including one that only produces power when the car is in "park", two that are full time "hot" and one "ign hot"

I should point out that programming the LT1 cars is different than the 91-93 cars. The pics above show shorting the programming connector with a key. On my 92 RMW, the connector only has one wire, and you short that to ground. I simply stuck a screwdriver in there, and held the shaft of the screwdriver against a ground screw that was near the taillight. Key to RUN, car not started. Ground connector. Locks cycle. Press a button on remote to be paired. Locks cycle. Done.

I did not have to turn the key to RUN for my programming to work in either my 91 or 92.

Going from ten year old memories...

jayoldschool wrote:

Going from ten year old memories...

you were clever as a kid eh?