Engine is out, what to replace

Hi, I have a 93 tbi with about 100k on it, the engine is out of the car, what things would be easy to replace, on a budget, before it goes back in? It has a ticking sound like a stuck lifter on the drivers side, might also be exhaust leak?

I suppose it depends on whether or not you are looking for performance and how much you have to tear into it. If I had a TBI out of the car, I would do a cam swap and valvesprings. On a budget, you could go for a B-car LT1 camshaft (which I'm sure you can get for just the cost of shipping) for a nice mild bump. If you have the heads off and want to have screw-in studs installed, the ZZ3 cam would be a nice step up. It's also quite cheap and can be found for about 75$. Gm P/N for the ZZ3 (sometimes referred to as ZZ4) H.O. roller cam #10185071. duration 208 intake 221 exhaust at .050" lift; .474"/.501" lift W/ 1.5 RR.

Pick up a set of used Vortec heads.

This is my first sbc, I have worked on other engines, diesel jeep, truck, vw merc and jags, so i am use to following directions and specs and staying with stock parts, so switching to something different will be interesting. I am defiantly interested in a little more get up and go! For a cam swap is that all I would need, probably replace the chain and tensioner while I am there?

jasonlachapelle wrote:

I suppose it depends on whether or not you are looking for performance and how much you have to tear into it. If I had a TBI out of the car, I would do a cam swap and valvesprings. On a budget, you could go for a B-car LT1 camshaft (which I'm sure you can get for just the cost of shipping) for a nice mild bump. If you have the heads off and want to have screw-in studs installed, the ZZ3 cam would be a nice step up. It's also quite cheap and can be found for about 75$. Gm P/N for the ZZ3 (sometimes referred to as ZZ4) H.O. roller cam #10185071. duration 208 intake 221 exhaust at .050" lift; .474"/.501" lift W/ 1.5 RR.

Will the LT-1 cam cause any problems for the 305 engine computer?

To your point, I would think that some reprogramming would be in order to take advantage of the increased air flow.

I have a 350 tbi, but good question, also should I replace hard to get to sensors/ oil pan gasket even if they are not leaking?

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] Jay is right, your stock heads are garbage. You can probably pick up a set of vortech heads on the cheap (think junkyard).

Kdrolt wrote:

Prior to 94, from 89-93 the LO5 was the preferred engine on the 9C1 Caprice cop car and that engine used the same cam as the L98 engine from the Fcar, as verified by measurement of the lobes and as identified by the 773 suffix on the cam part number. That's ONLY on the 9C1 version of the LO5, and they were rated from 190 fwhp in 1989-90, 195 fwhp in 1991, and 205 fwhp in 1992-1993. All with Throttle Body fuel Injection (TBI).

The civilian (non-police non-9C1) 350 LO5 engines were only rated at 180 fwhp and they used a different smaller cam (the same one used in all LO3 engines). BUT the LO5 in non-police use weren't available in all Bcars except 1993 in the LTZ Caprice and in 91-93 Roadmasters and some of the Olds Custom Cruiser wagons. The VIN code is 7 for the 5.7 engines, and E for the 5.0 LO3, no matter if it's a copcar or not.

To add more confusion to the two different LO5 engines as above (police with the L98 cam, and non-police with the LO3 cam) there was also a truck version of the LO5 and it also had TBI. That engine, because it was used in a truck, didn't get roller lifters (like the cars did) and so it got an entirely different flat tappet cam.

So when someone says LO5 cam it could mean any of three different cams. The hottest among all three would be the 9C1 LO5 cam, with the 773 pn suffix, as used in the L98 engine. The specs for that cam are listed on the tech pages at Thirdgen.org

So you probably (? who knows, you have no signature) have the 178/194 duration @ .050 duration, .350"/.385" lift, 109 deg LSA. The 96 B-car LT1 camshaft has 191/196 duration @ .050, .418"/.430" lift (1.5 rockers) and a 111 LSA. It`s still a very mild cam but considering you can probably get it for almost nothing, it's a decent bump.

yes, you will need a good tune to take advantage of it. A set of LT1 24pph injectors is not required, but nice to have if you are getting a reprogramme.

Also concerning the Vortech heads,our intake manifold will not fit them so a Vortech compatible manifold will also be necessary.

jasonlachapelle wrote:

Kdrolt wrote:

Prior to 94, from 89-93 the LO5 was the preferred engine on the 9C1 Caprice cop car and that engine used the same cam as the L98 engine from the Fcar, as verified by measurement of the lobes and as identified by the 773 suffix on the cam part number. That's ONLY on the 9C1 version of the LO5, and they were rated from 190 fwhp in 1989-90, 195 fwhp in 1991, and 205 fwhp in 1992-1993. All with Throttle Body fuel Injection (TBI).

The civilian (non-police non-9C1) 350 LO5 engines were only rated at 180 fwhp and they used a different smaller cam (the same one used in all LO3 engines). BUT the LO5 in non-police use weren't available in all Bcars except 1993 in the LTZ Caprice and in 91-93 Roadmasters and some of the Olds Custom Cruiser wagons. The VIN code is 7 for the 5.7 engines, and E for the 5.0 LO3, no matter if it's a copcar or not.

To add more confusion to the two different LO5 engines as above (police with the L98 cam, and non-police with the LO3 cam) there was also a truck version of the LO5 and it also had TBI. That engine, because it was used in a truck, didn't get roller lifters (like the cars did) and so it got an entirely different flat tappet cam.

So when someone says LO5 cam it could mean any of three different cams. The hottest among all three would be the 9C1 LO5 cam, with the 773 pn suffix, as used in the L98 engine. The specs for that cam are listed on the tech pages at Thirdgen.org

That is some cool info. I never knew that. One thing to add is the 9C1's and presumably the LTZ cars with the 5.7 used the larger injectors.

check the exhaust manifold bolts, they like to break. My car ticks until warm then the leak is sealed by the expanding exhaust manifold as it heats up.. I would replace the exhaust studes with grade 8 hardware while out. The broken one on mine is up at the firewall so I'm not bothering with it. I would freshing up all the gaskets at the very least while it is out.

Just added a signature, so I need to find a cam, heads and manifolds seems like it might get expensive with bigger injectors would I need a stronger fuel pump?

Guess it did not show up, I have a 93 buick roadmaster wagon with the 5.7 tbi

You asked about timing chain and tensioner replacement.

I would definitely replace the chain and gears. (no tensioner on your chain)
Replace the water pump, too. It has to come off to get the timing cover off anyway.

I'd replace the O2 sensor and the temp sensor, too (unless they were replaced very recently).

If you don't use the higher output injectors mentioned earlier, you should at least get the injectors tested. You can usually get them tested for about $15 each if you do a little searching.

Check with
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I used a LT1/L99 cam, larger TBI with 9C1 injectors, wrapped shorty headers, duals, new timing set, new oil pump, fuel pressure gauge, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, rear main seal, front cover seal, gaskets, a shorty dipstick/tube, custom ignition wires, wire looms, upgraded chip (the computer is the same). I removed the air injection system.

If your sensors work, I would not replace them. The O2 sensor is only on the driver's side exhaust pipe. It can be mounted on the header if the bung is on the front. If not located on the front, the O2 sensor can be located on the exhaust pipe just after the header. Other mods include the oil pressure sender located facing toward the rear with a 1 1/4 inch pipe and elbow, and an extension for the wire to the O2 sensor if locating it on the exhaust pipe.

The dipsitck tube had to be bent up to pass between the header, and the block, then front to allow the removal of the dipstick. I twisted the OEM dipstick to negotaite curved tubes in any direction. After filling the engine with oil, and cranking it a couple of times, I inserted the dipstick. I had to adjust the twist to make the end of the dipstick flat when it measured the oil.
After noting the level on it, I marked it with a file. I also had to cut about 3-4 inches off of the OEM dipstick, because of the shorter tube.

The adapter and fuel pressure gauge are reasonabley simple to install. I slightly unbent the fuel line curve at the head/manifold, and bent it more at the TBI fitting. It did not take long, and the rest of the lines are unchanged. I used a tubing bender for both operations to minimize the possiblility of folding the pipe.

The trans support required a hump on the driver's side, and the pivot and cross shaft linkage to the trans from an LT1 car for correct clearance over the driver's side pipe.

The exhaust pipe mount in front of the rear axle for the driver's side is the same as the passenger's side, and the holes are already there for a quick bolt in. Get one off of another TBI car. If you are going to put cats on it, you need the heat shields from an LT1 car.

If I were to do it over again, I might take another route, because of all the parts chasing. Even with all of that, the results make the car fun to drive. I went from a 5.0 L with 170 hp to a 5.7 L with about 230-250 hp. The Flowmasters are quieter than I expected at crusing speed, but they also give the loud pedal its name when you step on it.

Thanks for all the info, very good stuff, so I take it most parts on Chevy engines are interchangeable, I will be on the look out for the parts!

Great info Fred.
I would add, that you might at a minimum. go to the Cop car chip burned for you at any of the places mentioned by Fred. Better yet, tell them exactly what you added, and they'll be able to match the new chip better. Your old chip is not reprogrammable. You'll need a new one. Changes, such as new Cam, heads and headers will likely cause you
issues, if left unattended. That system (speed density) will still
think it has the original parts, as nothing as told it differently,as all the old table as are still in place.

Also head over to this site as well for more insight on parts, software etc.

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Trying to program it yourself, although it can be done, can be very frustrating in nature. Do you want to " set it and forget it?" Let the
pros do it, but keep in mind it may easily take several burns, not one.l. Like to read through date and have a feeling of accomplishment?
Learn more about about doing it yourself.

On a 93, as a speed density system, it has very limited ability to relearn, only react within very limited parameters as provided by the original burn tables. It will likely perform worse.in some ares of operation You are adding things which will all provide more air, but it will have a limit as to how much different the fuel can be compensated by the computer. It may not always be " more".,Usually very little is needed at idle, but you'll need more fuel, and will vary as you cam opens up at higher RPM. What about warm up periods. cold weather chnages/ get it reporgrammed and you'll be much happier.


Dave Buchholz, Rochester NY

Flasheroo wrote:

Also concerning the Vortech heads,our intake manifold will not fit them so a Vortech compatible manifold will also be necessary.

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Here is a compatible intake for the vortec heads.

overall cost might be prudent to price out a simple 5.3 swap with all related wiring etc,.
more power better economy,.yada yada,.
Do your pricing properly,. buy carefully,.and don't work outside your abilities,.
TBI improvements can end up being a minefield,. there is a long list of failed projects, poor running motors etc,.
All major points to any successful engine upgrade.

Nick
jmho