Header gaskets

Okay so... I have an exhaust leak again. Those of you at Daytona know this (lol). The car had paper gaskets on it when I bought it, which are obviously junk. Now it's eaten through a set of the "good" felpro gaskets (they appear to be... graphite and wire or something?) and it's annoying.

I have heard of/seen aluminum gaskets. Are they worth the price? Do they last longer, or are they just one of those things people do "because they're shiny," so to speak?

i use earls gaskets. they have a refill that fits in aluminum frame. they cost more than the old paper ones but where in my car for 2 yrs and never had a problem

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-29da3berl
reffills
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-29d03b3erl[left]

i have a lt1 so might not be correct for tbi

Yeah, I have round ports. That's comparable to what I paid just now for some aluminum gaskets from advance without the refills... might return these if I can find those for my car.

So... aluminum gaskets - not a gimmick?

These look like the ones I'd need: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-29dc3berl/overview/

the frame is aluminum not sure what the gasket sealing material is made of. it is soft. i have my mtr out right now and the gasket seal sticicks to the heads it feels slippery. has a antiseize feel to it. they do work i know that i also use stage 8 header bolts

Yeah, I have grade 8 bolts. That I know.

But... $40?

Then again - two years with no change sounds pretty damn good...

Percy's. All the way. Those are by FAR the best I have ever used.

I had a manifold bolt get stuck in the head (#4 on passenger side) of my 9C1. It was going to require some invasive surgery to get it out, so I just bought a set of Earl's Pressure Master gaskets and put it all back together. I just now developed a leak after 7 years and 30k miles.

Stingroo wrote:

But... $40?

Then again - two years with no change sounds pretty damn good...

You can pay now or pay later.

The Earl's with the graphite insert are what I've used with all my headers. You can buy just the inserts if you end up removing the headers down the line. Like Crovo said, many have had success with the Percy's.

Yeah. Good point.

Bought a set. I'll return these ones that don't have the inserts tomorrow.

Stage 8 bolts are locking header bolts, not just grade 8. Percys work as well as the other higher end brands. I really like the one's that John pointed out. $35 is cheap. Particularly when you can buy just the inserts when you swap something out.

Oh. I just looked those up. That's pretty cool.

The percys compress and seal all the imperfections. They are a lot thinner than regular aluminum gaskets, with multiple layers, and compress easily.

I also use stainless ARP 12 point 5/16" head 3/8" header bolts. Depending on your header flange thickness, use 3/4" or 1" length. 3/4" will usually cover it. If you order the ones for dodges, you get 16 of them. So when you drop a few and they disappear into the framerail abyss, it's ok. But the smaller 12 point head gives you much better bolt access and makes the install a million times easier!

toomanytoyz wrote:

the smaller 12 point head gives you much better bolt access and makes the install a million times easier!

X2

Earl's gaskets arrived today. Took all of... 15 minutes to get the header off and swap the bad gasket.

Then I had to run out for a date. I'll do the other side tomorrow, but the leak is gone. I'm sure ladyfriend appreciated the better-sounding wagon. lol

Nice! Hope you have as good a' luck with them as I've had with the Percy's.

Maybe if the date goes well, you can show her your flamingo.

I have used stock GM metal manifold gaskets in the past with great success....

Ray,have you thought about pulling the headers and getting the flange ground flat before you spend all the money on gaskets?If the leak is always in the same spot you might be able to just grind it flat yourself.The fact that nothing seals the headers for long tells you somethings not true.

Cast headers, or aftermarket pipes? Some aftermarket flanges are incredibly warped from the box. I had all sorts of issues until I had a new set machined (milled) flat. I then used the aluminum gaskets. No problems to report three years later.

It's weird to see a thread lie dormant for a while,.

then someone adds a comment,.which is good and relevant,.

then other folks start posting to original Poster,. as if it is all current ,.



weird,. (add theme music from twilight zone here)

If the manifold is straight, it can seal fine with no gaskets,.
A large mill bastard file is the answer to no more problems,.

grade 8 bolts are not really necessary to hold an exh manifold up against the head,.

when changing header gaskets, slot the rear bolt hole from the bottom, remove all the bolts 'cept last one, loosens it off enough to slip the gasket in,.
put the rest of the bolts in,. tighten up from the centre out,.

as i stated before if an exhaust manifold is straight,.it'll seal fine,.the individual grey

i went and looked at the 1/2 set i have left from when i did a neighbours ,.
its FEL-PRO Part # MS9275B easy install,. less than 10 bucks

nick