Codes - Please Help!

Hey Guys,

I had my buddy come over with his code reader and we got 9 error messages, 2 of which were lean/rich exhaust due to the hole in my muffler which I plan to have replaced very soon and low power steering pump pressure due to a leaky hose. However, the Roady WILL NOT START. It cranks but will not start. This has been a problem for nearly two years and I THINK it's finally time to try and replace the Optispark. I've replaced the ignition coil last spring and the EGR just after I bought the car. It won't start if it's sat in the cold OR in humid/wet weather. During the winter I had to put a space heater under the front bumper to blast it with hot air before left in the morning. But now, since it's warm AND humid, it's not starting at all. I've put it off for this long and I think it's time. I've been watching the how to videos on youtube and one video suggests a bad PCM... but with the codes I'm getting, I wasn't sure. I don't have the funds to do this, so I was going to buy the parts as the money allowed and remove the parts in the mean time. Please have a look and let me know what you think. Here are the screenshots of the reader:

Code 51 is usually bad news. it's telling you there is a problem with the ECM.
 
I'd start off by checking the voltage at the coil.  When I have starting issues,, it's usually under 10 volts coming from the key when measured at the coil. (low voltage condition)

Do you hear the fuel pump for a few seconds at "Key on"?

 Insufficient current can be a problem as well.  I had non fire issues for a few years and traced it to  the primary wire from key to coil. it had be spliced into so often by past owners that there was insufficient current getting to the coil  (orange, not white spark at the plugs) I found it by bypassing the key to coil wire. I went straight  from battery to coil and it fired right up. Key on is still required to get juice to the ECM, but it's likely you'll need to pull that wire again to shut it off. At least you'll know if it is a current issue.

The thing is you can have 12 volts but insufficient amps to trigger the Beast.

Kind of like needing Niagara Falls when all you have is a leaky toilet. 94 was an odd year during the changeover from OBD1 to OBD 2. Your codes would seem to be OBD1  which was 91-93 but with an optispark which was more like 95-96.  Optispark issues are common place, and others can report on that aspect of it.

I sure others here will have other and better ideas than me.

The coil is brand new as of September of last September. I'll try replacing the coil wire first and go from there.

Yes, I hear the fuel pump "whir" and smell gas after cranking on it for awhile, so I KNOW it's getting fuel. Fuel's not the problem, I'm 99% sure it's lacking spark.

So is mine OBD1 or OBD2?

I DID notice today that someone had marked the spark plug wires, indicating, someone else has done something with the wires... wondering if the Opti is alright and it's another issue like the ECM or something as simple as the ignition wire? See the yellow marks on the plug wires

Is there any of that yellow junk on the harmonic balancer because that spec on the plug wire looks like it might have been thrown there from the balancer.

You should still be on OBD! codes and ECM.
Here's list for you of codes.

http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/showthread.php/30334-GM-OBD1-DTC-codes-for-1995-and-older


Here's' a better one with some explanations to them as well. Maybe it will help.

http://www.theimportkiller.com/forums/index.php?topic=420.0

I'd goggle "Optispark Troubleshooting" as well. They tend to be notorious for crapping out.

All signs point to a Faulty ECM... it's the only common one among all the codes I'm getting... which explains why I'm getting so many codes.

That's what I was suspecting as well. Possible it could have come loose, but more likely gone, if my own past experience sare of any value.  
91-93 had chips, unsure here on 94-96

Got a friend with similar car? Borrow their ECM.

OK!... Where's the chip?!?!

You have OBD1.  The '94-95 LT1s use no chip - you erase it and reflash it electronically.

Was the electrical system really putting out 17.7 volts? If so this certainly wasn't helping things.

If you don't have one locally you can borrow to test, PM me if you need another PCM - for a reasonable price I can flash one with the right program and send it to you.

so many codes,.
maybe revert to basics, and clean the ground stud and grounds on the head by the new coil ,..