HELP changing front shocks.

hi,

I'm trying to change the front shocks in my 93 Roadmaster wagon.
But no matter how hard I put the visegrip still can't get the bolt out, she shaft of the shocks turn with the bolt.
Actually on the right side the spring position is not giving me any room to put the visegrip.
Is there a plan B in this case?
Or any tips.!

thanks in advance.

Cut the nut off with a cut off wheel or split the nut with a nut splitter.

I don't think I can fit a cut off wheel where the bolt is, much less a nut splitter!

Ok, I'm really confuse now... that looks like a socket, how is suppose to help me! I'm sure I'm missing something.

It goes over the shaft.

But if you're not intending on saving the shocks, just break them off.

Sawzall

what is the best way to break it off?

Take a deep socket whatever the size of the nut is, and a looong extension. Put it on top of the nut and rock it front and back until the shaft and nut snap off.

When you put the new front shocks on, grease the threads and the end of the stud, then put a short length of oil cooler hose over it. This will keep the threads as new.

Long extension is the easiest way by far.

shock - 1
socket - 0

need to get a impact socket for round 2.

looks like I'm not going anywhere anytime soon with my woody!

Well, that didn't go well for ya. I agree with the others on the socket extension trick, keep at it, you'll get it.

200OZ wrote:

Well, that didn't go well for ya. I agree with the others on the socket extension trick, keep at it, you'll get it.

X2. Make sure the bottom of the shock is still bolted in, otherwise all your doing is moving the shock back and forth.

Bill

Yikes, that cheap Crapsman Socket was just an accident waiting to happen. I hope your knuckles didn't take a beating.

I replaced the shocks on my two wagons recently. On both cars, the socket and extension trick worked on one side. The other side I had to chisel off.

Tom

I burn em off with a torch,.
did the orange car,. about 20 mins total,.
its easiest with the "A" arms in the normal ride height position

a dremel and several cut off discs will work too.

On my safari van (which have an insanely tight area to get the shock nut off), I cut it with a sawzall and a good long blade (I use lenox.) One worked, one didn't. I ended up backing it off partway with visegrips and rocking it back and forth until it snapped.

Hope this makes sense...but here is how I do them.

Front wheel off.
 
Deep socket medium extension (I do not go above the A-arm dust shield ever)  

Small pipe that fits over your ratchet handle.  

Bend, turn nut, bend, turn nut, bend...yes you will turn the shaft too...but you basically work the shaft under the nut until it breaks off.  It takes me about 3 mins to do one.  It does not take much effort to bend once you get started and you can bend it at a greater angle working low. (plus you don't mess up the dust shield)

 Chris

Ok,
finally got the front shock out by breaking the bolt off.
All 4 shocks were pretty much dead, and the rear spring about an inch shorter. So I guess I'll feel a little difference when I'm done.

Thanks again for all your inputs and help.

PS.
what made a big difference was loosing the front shocks from the bottom, that give me a little more room to grab the shock shaft with the vise-grip. Which was necessary to brake the bolt off.
I think that if from the get-go I have that extra room for the vise-grip things could have been a lot easier.

Just asking here, but why do you need to have a Vise Grip on the shaft to break off the nut?

I believe your new rear springs are overload springs. They will increase the rear ride height by an inch or two. See how the coils are closer together at one end? Those springs get progressively harder to compress as more weight is added.