replacing intake manifold

Any tips or tricks I need to know? Ways to make it easier? The haynes is pretty straight forward, but there is no mention of the RTV in the front and rear seals. Can I install with fuel rail/ injectors installed, or is it better to bolt everything on after?

what you doing?? whats wrong with yours??
You build a little berm out of silicone front and rear rails,. give it 20 mins 1/2 hr or so,. the install the intake,.
nick

Nothing wrong with mine,just got another powdercoated and want to replace for looks.....


Thanks for the wait time, I would have just used RTV, then installed immediately.....

Its pretty straight forward. I pulled the injector rail and set it off to the side so I didn't have to disconnect the fuel lines.

You will have to pull the fuel rail and injectors because otherwise you can't reach the intake bolts. Make sure to clean the area real good before you remove anything so you don't send any dirt down into the engine. Also, spray some lubricant like Pb Blaster or WD40 on the injector o-rings to help them come out.

Haynes says to drain the coolant because of the water passages. I looked on the intake and there are NO water passages..... Do I still need to drain the coolant?

I think you misread. You need to drain the Haynes manual.

It's been 20 or so years since I have taken an engine apart. Last one had a rotchester quadrajunk mounted to an Olds 350 Rocket circa 1971

I know that the Haynes is a "guideline" at best, just looking for tips to make it go easier.

Hey man, it's Rochester, not rotchester. We have some pride in the fact AC Rochester designed and built that carb up here in Rochester, NY.

The LT-1 is one of the easiet intakes to change, you won't have any problems.

Mike

I knew that

No disrespect intended

As said above, its a dry intake. I did it on my Caprice right before wagon fest and it was a very straight forward job. Remove the vac lines, injector rail (or disconnect fuel line, whichever you choose), remove TB, PCV hose, unbolt and remove. Placing rags in the valley helps a lot when you are scraping off any old gasket that remains. Apply a generous bead of copper RTV to the front and back rails and re-assemble.

Copper RTV instead of the black that came in the gasket kit?

Yikes my manifold is leaking and needs to be resealed. I've read the above plus the factory service manual. I have a few questions regarding the manual. It doesn't mention removing the engine coolant air bleed pipe and bolts but mentions putting it back on. Does it need to come off? It mentions using a back up wrench when torquing the engine coolant air bleed pipe and bolts. What does that mean?

It also mentions the generator bracket and bolts. Does it require removal?

While there one might as well replace leaking valve cover gaskets. Does doing any of this require draining the oil? Does any of it require draining the coolant?

How big of job is this for a fairly inexperienced guy? How long does it take? The shop wants over $700 to do it and they say that they have to drain the fluids.

Thanks,

Also, when resealing the intake manifold is there anything else that one should do while it is apart?

Thanks,

rjathon wrote:

Yikes my manifold is leaking and needs to be resealed. I've read the above plus the factory service manual. I have a few questions regarding the manual. It doesn't mention removing the engine coolant air bleed pipe and bolts but mentions putting it back on. Does it need to come off? It mentions using a back up wrench when torquing the engine coolant air bleed pipe and bolts. What does that mean?

It also mentions the generator bracket and bolts. Does it require removal?

While there one might as well replace leaking valve cover gaskets. Does doing any of this require draining the oil?  Does any of it require draining the coolant?

How big of job is this for a fairly inexperienced guy?  How long does it take?  The shop wants over $700 to do it and they say that they have to drain the fluids.

Thanks,

Well here's the thing,.the steam pipe can be bent up out out the way gently,.rather than take the steam tubes off,.no need to drain coolant then,.you can lift all 8 injectors up with the fuel rail and use a coat hanger to hold it up out of the way,..
INmho 700 is exceptionally high ,.max 3 hrs to do this job,..

The intake port gaskets are reusable,..

valve cover gaskets don't leak much on LT1's,. IF they are leaking,. do them,.
IF they are just weeping a little, i personally leave them alone,. but i,m not too fussy about a little oil here and there,..

I've been putting this job off for a while on the Olds...I always end up making a big mess with coolant..