Power steering box leaks

Newbie from Cape Cod here:

The '95 Buick estate wagon I have is leaking power steering fluid. I have more time than money lately, and am wondering what to expect, money wise. If I could find a used box, would it even be advisable? There is probably no clear cut answer but I wanted to put it out there.
Thanks.

Gary

Take the alternator off, then have a look at the lines where they connect to the power steering pump. That is likely where your leak is coming from.

How tough is it to remove the alternator? Thanks. Reckon I can google it,...

On a scale of ridiculously easy to impossible, alternator removal is on the left side of the scale. Two bolts, a brace, an electrical plug, a wiring stud, and loosening the belt tension.

Thanks, I'll take a look and see what's doing.

Just so you aren't taking unnecessary steps, is it leaking at the steering box or at the pump? They are on opposite sides of the engine bay. If your steering BOX is leaking, you shouldn't have to remove the alt.

It's leaking at the front of the car on the driver's side, opposite of where the reservoir is. I got a good look at it tonight with a flash light, and it's definitely leaking below the alternator.

[quote="Acoustic Blasphemy"]It's leaking at the front of the car on the driver's side, opposite of where the reservoir is. I got a good look at it tonight with a flash light, and it's definitely leaking below the alternator. [/quote]

I,m confused,...

Nick

Okay, I just found out that leak is below the ABS unit and not the alternator.

Mind you, I have no idea what I'm doing, so work with me here. Has anyone had that ABS box off before, and how difficult is it for the layman (novice)?

Thanks!

You do not have to remove the ABS box to remove the steering box.

You have to disconnect the center link at the pittman arm

slide the collapsable shaft shroud off of the steering box

remove the bolt from the collapsable steering shaft clamp

partially remove the collapsable steering shaft from the input shaft of the steering box

remove the hydraulic lines from the steering box through the wheel well with an open end wrench

remove the three bolts that hold the steering box to the frame from the wheelwell side

remove the nut that holds the steering box to the ABS mount

You will have to wiggle, twist and turn it to get it out, but it will come out

Once you have it out, you can replace the input and output seals without opening the box. You need a 1 5/16 inch socket, to remove the pittman arm nut, and a pittman arm puller (rent from Autozone) to remove the arm. You need an inside clip ring pliers to remove the retaing ring. You can then pry out the seal (both are held in by clip rings). When you get the seals, there will be instructions on care in replacing seals. You can also tighten up your steering box while you have it out. The FSM has specs on tightening the box. All of the steering boxes have the same instructions, so any FSM will have the specs and a how to. You do need a couple of tools... 3/8 inch and 1/4 inch torque wrenches, a special spanner wrench for the input shaft adjustment, and an allen wrench for the output shaft adjustment. (I assume you have a good set of open end and box wrenches, as well as a metric and SAE socket set)

Buying a replacement box is about $175 with your old one. The cost of the seals is about $10-30, and the tools about (cheapies on special at Harbor Freight) $40. You may have a hard time finding the adjusting tool for the input shaft. You can make one with a little ingenuity.

Another option is to have a garage put the seals in for you, and you do the rest of the work. They may even be able to adjust the box, but make sure they are competant.

Thank you for taking the time to write all this, but I don't understand 80% of it. I'll take it to a garage, thanks. Did I mention that I'm a novice? Perhaps I should have put "I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing..." But again, thanks for your effort!

Gary try trading your expertise with someone who knows how to work on our wagons.Watch closely and ask a lot of questions!
Jim

You have a choice in all matters. You can learn to do it yourself, and keep the money in your pocket, or use your expertice to earn enough to pay someone who is willing and able to do the work that you can not.

My rule of thumb is: if I earn more per hour than you do, you get the job, if I earn less per hour than you do, I do the job, if it is even money, I do the job that is less messy.

Great rule to live by Fred!
Jim

Thanks guys. This is all very helpful. I'll take everything into account and will try to keep up.

So what happened?

I ordered all the parts from Rock Auto for under $200, and have a mechanic that is going to try and fit me in soon. I'll keep the forum duly noted!

Nice left in the profile pic, is that you and is that so. cal?

TWO MONTHS LATER

Okay, it's been awhile, but I've been flat out at work. Here's what happened:

Turns out that the leak was in one of the lines, not the box. I bought the lines (2) at rockauto.com for short money, and returned the box for a full refund minus what it cost to ship back. I found a mechanic that has a '95 like mine, and he charged me $300 for the job. He said he'll never do that job again for that price! The leak is gone, the power steering is quiet and smooth. Feels like a new ride, I swear.

There was also an antifreeze leak that was hard to pinpoint, but Bar's additive seemed to solve that problem.

There's also a small transmission fluid drip from the tran oil cooler lines. I tried Lucas additive, but it's still dripping. Very slow, but it spots up the road and driveway when parked for any length of time. So, the oil cooler lines are next in line to be fixed when I get the $$$.
Mechanic said he'll do it for $200. I'm weighing options until then.

Thanks again for all the help, and sorry it took so long to post my results.

gary

Gary,I hope the mechanic kissed you first!Hope you trust this guy and are sure he actually did the
work and replaced the lines.Time to start learning how to fix the wagon yourself,buy a factory
service manual and start READING!

Kissed me first, hmmm.............oh wait! I get it, you think I got f***ed! LOL

Nice one, Jim!

Gary, where on Cape Cod might you reside? My Grandfather lives in S. Yarmouth, and I make the trek up there when I can.

I'm in E. Harwich. I play at Red Face Jack's in W. Yarm from 4 to 7 every Sunday. You'll see the Buick parked out back! Stop by and say Hi!

Next time I'm up there, I'll swing through.

All kidding aside: you think I got reamed on this deal? If so, I'd like to know why so I can confront the guy. I'm not shy in that regard, in fact I'm wicked opposite.

There was a 10in. spot under the wagon every day prior to the power steering lines being replaced. Now there is no leakage whatsoever. I think if he was going to cheat me, he would have said that he installed the power steering box and kept it. Instead he returned it, and I got my money back from Rock Auto. After the job, he put the car up on the lift to show me what he replaced, and what he thought might be needed in the future. He has another LT-1 engine in his garage and used it to show me how he went about it. It sounded really difficult, but I have no experience in this matter and have to trust the pro's.

I am interested in how you think the mechanic cheated me, and appreciate your feedback.

thanks!

Gary I am sorry,its been years since I paid anyone to work on my cars.By todays rates I guess
its not unreasonable.I use to do engine swaps for 300 bucks back in the day.Dont go after your
mechanic,go after a set of service manuals and start studying.
IMHO

I work 50-60 hrs./week and am happy to have someone that knows what they are doing repair my vehicle, TV and home. I do appreciate your suggestion, though.

thanks!