200r4 Issues

Just when everything seemed hunkydory, my transmission thought otherwise.
I swear when one thing is finally fixed something else decides to break.

Jump in car. Put in reverse. Goes in gear. I have nothing. Check the tranny fluid. Add some. I get reverse back if I accelerate lightly, too much and it shutters.

More importantly when driving it doesn't seem to want to shift. Revs high going into 40-45 without changing.

Had just got the TV cable properly installed and aligned. Drove perfect with no issues for a few days. Parked for a week. Now this.

Not sure if its the gears or the governor / governor springs. Or a shift linkage. Or a higher power telling me to call it quits.

Going to try to make an appointment. Hopefully its nothing major or else I'm out for Wagonfest. VERY happy my room is refundable.

Sounds like the direct clutch pack may be toast. It is used for reverse as well as third gear. What is the history of this transmission? Recent rebuild, original, mileage?

History is limited, but its an old Jasper transmission.
No idea if it was a rebuild or replacement. 96,500 miles on clock, but I will wager its most of those miles.

steel-and-fire wrote:

Had just got the TV cable properly installed and aligned.  Drove perfect with no issues for a few days.  Parked for a week.  Now this.

Doesn't sound promising for an easy fix. Was the car used much with the TV cable out of whack?

Weekends occasionally to try to get the cable adjusted. Ended up switching to a different cable and everything was perfect. Guy said it is surely something in the transmission, so I might be looking at a rebuild or a replacement.

Funny enough on the drive home after they checked it the transmission did shift semi-properly. These cars really are temperamental. Least I can entertain not having to give it up.

Do you mean a 200 4 R, or a 700 R 4 ? There are no details about which vehicle you are talking about in your post and you don't have a signature block.

My fault. Still haven't gotten around filling the profile out.
1989 Buick electra estate. It is the 200r4.

According to the ATSG 200-4r manual:

No reverse or slips in reverse;
1) throttle valve cable
a) binding or misadjusted
2)manual linkage
a) misadjusted
3) throttle valve
a) binding
4) t.v. limit valve
a) binding
5) line bias valve
a) binding

1-2 shift--full throttle only
1) throttle valve cable
a) binding, unhooked or broken
b) misadjusted
2) throttle lever & bracket assembly
a) binding or unhooked
3) throttle valve & plunger
a) binding

rough 1-2 shift
1) throttle vlave cable
a) not adjusted properly
b) binding
2) throttle valve or t.v. plunger
a) binding
3) t.v. limit valve
a) binding
4) accumulator valve
a) binding

Going by your description and what the diagnostic chart says, I'd be looking at the tv cable again. On the 700r4 & 200-4r transmissions, throttle valve cable adjustment is paramount to the transmission survival. If it's adjustment is off, it can kill a transmission in a mile. Not trying to scare you but educate because to me it sounds like the shop you took it to needs to stand behind their work.

JM.02

68scott385 wrote:

Not trying to scare you but educate.

I appreciate it.  I bought an 80s wagon mechanic's service manual just to see how everything works including the 200r4.

Took another look at the wagon and was greeted with an exceptionally large puddle of transmission fluid.  Will have to do more investigating to figure out where its coming from.  Since the pan seal and trans filter were recently replaced last year I doubt its coming from there.

The "plus side" is if I am looking at a transmission rebuild or replacement I can have it upgraded for a higher horsepower rating when the time comes to engine swap.
If its too much now, I have a friend who has a 200r4 in his garage that will let me take for free.  Its just been in there since he pulled it from a 20,000 mile wagon in 1990.

A few options.  We shall see.

Thats sweet ! The only things my buddies have laying around are bills and child support payments .

You'll love this. It's a highly detailed 3 part article describing the tv system and the importance of the cable adjustment. Links to the other 2 parts are on the upper left of the page.

http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php

At this point any sane person would probably junk the car and cut their losses.  I have been known to be quite stubborn.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma-pa20102/overview/

http://www.ckperformance.com/resources/GM2004RTRANSMISSIONS.html

When it comes time to swap engines I'll be ready at least.  I just want the wagon moving again.  I live in NYC so these two were the best I have been able to find.  More preference towards CKPerformance since they are in Brooklyn.  Anyone have any other suggestions?

On that note anyone ever deal with these people:
http://www.powertrainproducts.net/OLDSMOBILE-403-6-6-V8-77-79-COMP-ENGINE-p/1863.htm?gclid=CMD4povkibkCFY2e4Aod2wQAWg

Been looking for a short block, but wouldn't mind swapping for a stock 403 with warranty then upgrading (camshaft, Edelbrock heads / intake) in the future.  Plan on keeping the CCC and quadjet to save the A/C and cruise control (when I get that working).

If the car drove perfectly after having the TV cable adjusted and it then sat for a week,go back to the TV cable.Always go back to the most recent repair/modification done just prior to the malfunction.Its always worked for me.

steel-and-fire wrote:

J
 Check the tranny fluid.  Add some.  I get reverse back if I accelerate lightly, too much and it shutters.

Low on fluid, lack of pressure,. been driven like this for a while ?

Leak on the ground?

It's been my real world experience that keep the vital fluid levels u at the correct levels, and the vital fluids in their proper place is very important to the proper operation of engines and transmissions,. Both engine and transmission really don't work well when low on their vital fluids,. 

Flasheroo wrote:

If the car drove perfectly after having the TV cable adjusted and it then sat for a week,go back to the TV cable.Always go back to the most recent repair/modification done just prior to the malfunction.Its always worked for me.

The guy said it was something inside the transmission that was at fault. Everything seemed adjusted properly.

Its just frustrating when they were at proper levels and still doesn't work.  Then starts leaking everywhere.

To anyone who lives in NYC, anyone have any suggestions or know places that they use for engine/transmission swap work?
Or places (be it local or online) that have products that aren't questionable with the quality?
My previous links are based on my limited knowledge of what I should be looking for.
Trying to keep the spending at 2k for the fix/upgrade.
One quoted a basic tranny rebuild at 1350, which at that point I might as well buy new.
I have no friends who are into cars, so it is just me and the internet (plus my service manual).


I am learning the frustrations of older car ownership and it has put into perspective to have a BIG garage when I can move out of my parent's house.

In the realm of transmissions rebuilt and new are not far apart as no internal parts can be refreshed/reconditioned like connecting rods, main bearing bores, or cylinder bores in an engine block.

http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog.php?Action=GETSUBCAT&CATID=C

http://www.tciauto.com/

I have a BTO level 2 200r4 in my car. It works pretty good (way better than the factory one), but I don't have many miles on it. If you get on it, it shifts alot harder than the factory trans. It will chirp the tires through at least 1-2 and 2-3 according to the BTO tech, and given how it shifts at 1/2 throttle, I believe it. If you are just putting around town, it does shift pretty smooth though. I had about 1800 in mine with trans, torque converter, new flexplate, and BTO temp gauge (a very very nice quality unit) shipped halfway across the country. I will say, the first trans they sent me had a defect in the case and leaked, so it was sent back, and a new one came in about 1.5 weeks, all on their dime. Their techs seem knowledgable about trans, and if you follow their instructions on installing the trans and setting it up, it makes it pretty much foolproof.

Can close the book on the issue now.  Last Friday I took Firefly over to CK Performance.  I was surprised she made it the hour and twenty minutes to Long Island without breaking down. Have to hand it to these things, they don't quit even when they are limping (knock on woodgrain).  The fluid smelled burnt when it was drained and looked close to dark brown than red.  Noted I put in numerous quarts of fluid the day before due to its leaking, so that was practically brand new fluid.  Don't know when the Jasper was installed but it did its job.  Now 96,685 miles a very new chapter is started.

http://www.ckperformance.com/resources/GM2004RTRANSMISSIONS.html
Standard 200r4 and is built to withstand up to 500 torque and horsepower.  Surely will handle the stock 307 and the 403 I swap in the future. This was one of the first times I took a car to someone and felt confident they knew what they were doing.  Chris really knows his stuff and is a great guy.  TV cable was adjusted properly and test drove the wagon to ensure everything felt right. The wagon itself feels completely different.  It actually feels perky to drive which is a weird experience from something you are used to being more sluggish after 2 1/2 years.  On the road I can overtake people again.  More importantly merge onto a highway without worrying about getting rear ended.  It has also led me to start thinking about its handling.  When its slow its fine.  Now that its has "umph" the sway of trying to keep in a straight line is paramount.

All in all so incredibly happy.



Firefly actually in the air.


Old Jasper 200r4 comes out.


I actually learned I have a thicker aftermarket flywheel.


New transmission!


All snug in its new home.

Glad to hear it's fixed now.

When you get a 403, make sure it's an earlier one, the blocks are stronger, or you could go all the way to 455, it'll fit.