93 California Caprice 5.7L, just a little at a time

Guess I'll start a project post for my 93 Caprice wagon, plans are for slowly getting it back to a dependable daily driver kind of car.

It's a California car that is still in California so all smog equipment must be kept functional as it came from the factory. I'll introduce my car by listing the rpo codes from the tag in the far back door jamb.

1G1BL837XPW112778       1BL35 (not sure what this code is for but the VIN is obvious)
AA7   AG1   AG2   AJ3   AM6   AP9   AU3   BC5   B18   B34   B37   C49   C60   C96   DD2   DF6   DL8   D3X   D42   D64   D81   D90   E5Z   E9Z   F40   GU5   G67   G80   IQC   JA2   JM4   KC4   K34   K60   L05   MD8   MXO   NB2   N30   N40   N81   N91   PH1   QEU   R4Z   R7M   R8T   UM6   UQ1   UQ5   U39   U75   VG6   VK3   V08   V73   V92   WRN   YF5   1AY   1SD   1SZ   20C   20I   21A   22Q   22U   6TL   7TL   8RN   9RN
Basecoat/Clearcoat WA-L8966   A21A   20C

That's a pretty long list from a sticker faded on the upper section that basically says the wagon has a 350 throttle body engine, overdrive auto trans, light blue paint and blue luxury cloth interior, tow package, auto level system, and almost all the power goodies on the inside.

So far I'm mostly just driving it to find out what it needs and to let an unknown amount of sitting show its ugly effects.

I have replaced the battery and one cable, the positive that goes to the junction block on the inner fender, but the other two cables I just cleaned up because my hand and tools can't seem to fit in the same tight space for the starter end or the non existent space behind the airpump for the head end of the negative. I'll just replace those when I have to get in there for a REAL reason instead of 'just because'.

When I picked it up the car ran and drove great, third time driving gave me a jerking/bucking at light throttle take off when the engine was warmed up. I drove it home by keeping my foot on the gas to keep the rpms up past that point for taking off from stops. No codes for the problem but the car doesn't do it when I pulled the vacuum hose off the EGR valve. Got suspicious of the computer not holding codes but ruled that out by unplugging the MAP sensor wires and getting an immediate check engine light and code stayed in the computer overnight and after the next start. Now I am running out the Shell gas since I remembered another car that ran lean on that 'nitrogen' infused gasoline. Lean running gas with exhaust getting thrown in the mix might just cause the bucking but it's probably the EGR valve or o2 sensor acting up.

First night in the driveway showed no drips with the nose slightly downhill but since then I am seeing a little drip from the rear of the engine when parked level and coolant drip running down the lower radiator hose from the water pump area. The effects from the car sitting are starting to show up.

I still haven't tried all the gadgets in the car but will put that in another post.

The drip at the rear is probably either the oil pressure sender, main seal, or the back of the intake manifold. The back of the intake manifold is sealed with silicone, and can only be fixed by removing the manifold and redoing the gaskets entirely, making sure you get plenty of silicone on the block, and setting the manifold without shifting it once in place. Check the rear top of the engine behind the manifold for oil. If it is dry, check the oil sender. If it is dry, it is probably the rear main seal.

Since you pulled the vacuum to the EGR, and it stopped when you did so, I would suspect the EGR solenoid, not the valve itself. The valve ports vacuum to the valve, and it should not unless you are driving at a steady state, such as on a highway (I know, that is not always possible in Cal.).

The codes stay in the computer for about 50 starts. You can clear them by pulling the fuse in the little holder, in the right rear of the engine compartment beside the fuel pump relay and the AC relay, and waiting a minute before reinserting it.

The coolant leak will probably be the pump. The good side is that they are cheap, and relatively easy to replace.

A good note is that you have 3.23 (GU5) gears and a posi (G80).

If you want to make a good upgrade for very little money, get the metal fuel lines from a 91-92 FW with an LO3/5, or a 93 FW (slightly different shape, but bolt in). They have a Schrader valve port, will bolt in, and you will be able to check your fuel pressure if you ever need to.

Congrats with the '93 Cappie. (from another '93 Cappie owner) I agree with Fred on the pump. If you see a small leakage at the underside of the pump, (the weep hole) you should replace it. I also had to replace the EGR solonoid a year ago, but the CEL gave a code. The code said either the EGR valve or the solonoid, so i replaced both (just to be sure)
Other than that, great car to drive (in our possesion for 10 years now) and did 170K.
Good luck,
Pete

I guess I should add that the wagon has 177,500 miles on it and the 350 looks like the intake gasket has been replaced, looks to be gray silicone oozed out in front and solidified, water pump also looks like it has been replaced but probably time for another replacement. My biggest problem with the car is being able to see anything at all under and around all the stupid gov required stuff on top of the engine and the back of the engine being under the cowl area, I'm used to working on late 67  to 79 Chrysler products where almost everything is in plain sight!

Most of this post is just so I have a reference point for later when I can't remember any of this.

My first drive in the Caprice confirmed the cruise control works, trans shifts nicely, and no weird noises from anywhere. The odometer works but the trip odo doesn't, fuel guage registers but is probably too low at bottom and too high at full but that is pretty much normal for most cars. Front windows work well but passenger rear needs help to stay straight enough to close all the way so it needs those little plastic dohickies that are all over ebay. A/C cycles about every second and heater blows hot air. One a/c hose has a replacement with goodyear lettering on it. Tilt wheel works with just a little bit of play and the cover is off the wiper switch wires.

Front wipers work but washer hose is broken at cowl outlet, rear washer works but not the rear wiper. Horn and interior warning chimes don't work and the gate ajar light doesn't come on at all. Rear window release and seat and window controls work but the driver recliner handle is missing.
Other dash warning lights work but the temp light only lights up while key is in 'start' position.

Third seat area shows that the side area trim has been taken out and not put back in correctly at some time and the handle/lock for the seat was prybarred out at some point. The broken handle/lock parts were in a plastic baggy in the glove compartment along with the broken fuse cover. Lots of cracked plastic pieces in the car, CA sunshine does a number on car plastic and I covered the dash pad so I don't see the major cracks from the defrost grille outward. Needs a bulb cover on one rear handhold (passenger) and probably switches as well. I'll be checking out local wrecking yards sometime soon. The tailgate works in both directions for opening and the window holds itself up which I didn't expect.

I've put the rearview mirror back on the windshield twice but it let go at first touch and then the second time when I pulled the sunvisor down against it without thinking. Now it goes to a glass shop where they can still get the REAL mirror adhesive and can use REAL cleaners, CA doesn't let the do it yourselfer have anything truly toxic anymore.  

Thought the power seat control on the driver's door had broken the attaching posts on the woodgrain bezel but when I checked on it I found someone had overtightened the screws and broken off the tabs on the control itself. I guess there is supposed to be a light in that assembly but the bulb is missing and the wire connector is loose which is where I left it.

The radio doesn't play but the cassette does, radio just has static and beep pattern of 3 1 3 repeating all the time.

I will leave my hammer far away from the car, that is reserved for plumbing!!

I got real busy on the wagon today! Replaced the front wipers with new ones and was about to throw away the old ones when I noticed they were metal instead of plastic. Put them away just in case they are the originals and the curve they had wouldn't fit in the packages the new ones came out of.
Oh, and I washed the car too! Like I said, busy on the wagon, LOL.

Drove the wagon to get fuses today and noticed the clock lit up, turned on the radio and that stupid thing is working now! I had not gotten the fuses yet so the fix is a mystery.
Got home and replaced fuse #2 and got the chimes and rear wiper working but not the horn so now I go tracing where the current stops. Bought a test light because I couldn't find mine, several moves and no room to unbox meant it was quicker to just buy a new one. I don't think I've even tried the driver side rear door window or the window switches except master and passenger side rear yet, or the passenger power seat. Probably a few other things as well.
The auto level system is not something I'm used to yet, it startles me when it turns on for a a few seconds and worries me when its on for minutes every once in a while, but I used the wagon to empty a couple storage lockers out and had no problems with the system lifting the back of the car while loaded.

The shocks probably have leaky airbags. You would be wise to remove the fuse until you can get good airtight shocks or airbags. It will run until it seizes if you do not.

The horn buttons may be the culprit. Check them first.

Try stabbing the reset for the trip odo a couple of times. Sometimes that will "unstick" it. The odometer can be replaced as an individual part. If you replace the trip odo, put ALL new lights in the cluster. The gear selector indicator has a cable that goes around the steering column and clips to the shift lever bezel. It is fairly easy to break, so be careful when disassembling. If you remove it, the easy way to get it centered is to put the trans in overdrive, and get the color to appear in both dots on either side of the opening.

Do not worry about saving the old wipers. You should use 22 inch blades.

The passenger's side cargo bay handle lens seems to be more difficult to get than the driver's side. I have 3 driver's side and no passenger's side. The switch in the handle is a real cheapie, and is known to self destruct.

There is no light in the seat/window control panel. You may have a wire for the lockout. You may also have the wrong panel for your car if it does not have the lockout switch.

Get the round window sliders at the local parts store in the "Helps" section.

Try Rock Auto and use the 5% discount code on the forum. They are often cheaper than anybody else even with the shipping. It cost me about 15% less from Rock Auto than purchasing locally for the parts to re-gasket and other fixes for my donor engine.

If you see any intact (good mast) power antennas for the wagons/Caprice sedans, get them. The mast is impossible to get new, there are no more.

If you ever try to put true duals on your car, you will loose the auto level. The second muffler requires the space where the compressor sits. You can install the compressor and lines from an LT1 B body that fits behind the driver's side front bumper cover and wheelhouse extension. You could also mount one under the passenger's side, and clean up your engine compartment by putting the vapor recovery canister under the driver's side using the bracket from a 94-96 passenger's side (it would still be there for CA inspection, but out of the way so you can see better).

Thank you Fred, appreciate the helpful hints/suggestions. I'm still trying to figure out what FW stands for, found a list of acronyms at http://www.longroof.info/pdf/commonterms.pdf that was helpful for others like the paint colors but FW is not on there. I'll probably smack my forehead with a 'doh' moment when I know what it is. Looks like I need to put the tabs back on my passenger rear light cover to try to save it. Any ideas on what cargo covers will fit in the wagon? Checked the service manual on the leveling system and it appears to be working normally, just makes me do a double take when it kicks on and I have to remember not to park with the rear lower than the front or expect to hear it kick on (turned car around in driveway to prevent that to make up for slight slope).
Haven't seen the oil drip under the car for at least a week but still park on oil dry just in case.
Got horns to work with 12V to actual horns, have power in 2 places for relay, horns work by jumping at relay so wheel buttons or wire/connections in column have to be it, oh joy I hate airbags!

My antenna mast is still straight so can it be pushed down without hurting anything? I don't plan on that repair for awhile and may just go with a hidden antenna instead.

Still running gas out of tank (only driving about 40-50 miles a week to nursing homes and stores) but ordered the egr solenoid already and yes, I use the Rock Auto discount code from this sites vendor list unless shipping gets crazy. I also try to use AC Delco parts (or Standard) when available and reasonable rather than local parts store unknown stuff.

FW = Cadillac Fleetwood typically refers to the 1991-96 models

Haven't done much to the wagon lately, put a new PCV on it even though the old one still rattled when shaken. Ordered the new horn button switch  and am waiting for it to arrive. Got the dealer I bought it from checking on where the license plates are at, registration and title arrived a few weeks ago. Haven't been to a salvage yard yet to check on things like the passenger rear cargo lens and blue cargo cover and fuse cover but those are very non-essential. Been busy for Christmas loading books and bookcases in the back of the wagon and taking them to my mother's house, still got a ton of those to go. Not kidding on the weight, my great uncle passed and left an entire room and big closet filled with books, mostly history and biography and European royal families. I would use my mom's minivan to move the bookcases but it is easier to fold a back seat than to remove back seats and find a place to put them. One of her neighbors has a 69 Chevy wagon and finally knows who drives the blue 93 after seeing me in it, I usually walk the 7 houses to her house instead of driving. Got the first compliment from another local wagon driver!

I replaced the bulbs in the 3rd brake light and sanded down the contacts but still no light, time to check for power to that point but it has been cold and windy lately so the motivation just isn't there!

While watching the trip odo carefully instead of paying attention to the road I discovered that the 10ths digit turns but none of the others turn so it has a mechanical fault at the number wheels.

Got the wagon back after taking it to a shop for the waterpump. Yep, I was being so lazy I thought the pump might not get changed for a couple of months. Took it to the best shop in town, usually filled with custom hotrods and classics, and they were able to get it in within less than a week so I left it with them. They are usually booked for a month in advance. Had the waterpump/thermostat changed and rest of car looked over. Didn't need brakes, didn't need front suspension/steering work, rear dif was fully lubed up, didn't need coolant hoses or a belt. Did need a rear wiper blade and found out the 3rd brake light only has 6 volts going to it. No, I didn't ask them to diagnose the drivability issue. I am going to force myself to understand that system as well as I understand points and carbs, and now I can drive long enough to maybe set a code without risking running low on coolant.

Went and looked at another car but didn't get it, the kind of car I was looking for before giving up (after 2 years) and getting the wagon instead. Murphy's law required 2 of those cars, in the color combo I was wanting, to come up on craigslist after spending car money on something else. If I paid $1000 for either one of those cars it would have been $2000 too much and they are both asking $2300.

so the radio beeps 3 1 3,..
its saying either O E O
or S E S ,..
depending on the specific duration of said beeps,..

phantom 309 wrote:

so the radio beeps 3 1 3,..
its saying either  O E O
or  S E S ,..
depending on the specific duration of said beeps,..

It might be 'objection everyone objection'   because it learned I have driven mopars almost exclusively! I am not one of those Mopar or no car people though, owned one Mercury, driven family Ford's, and driven GM products when they were company cars including a mid 80's Custom Cruiser and early to mid 90's Astro vans. Some of the Pontiac cars are high on my list for 'when I win the lottery', and not just the GTOs.

I would have bought a late 60's mopar wagon but they are just too high priced right now and at the price I paid for this Chevy I can keep it a 'drive it til it drops' car or fix it up if I get the urge. I do like the looks of this body style even though I HATE the 4dr sedan version, the wagon rear half just makes it look 'smooth'.

Today's little bit on the car was to install the new horn button setup in the airbag, shouldn't have taken more than 1/2 hour including 15 minutes to wait after disabling the airbag system. A lot longer than that and I have horns working the way they are supposed to.

Couldn't find my knurled knobs that take the place of a ratchet so had to fight with getting the screws out of the back of the airbag against the turn signal housing on the column, just took longer but I got all 4 of the T30 screws out and the airbag off. Couldn't get the connector apart for the airbag wire so just flipped it over and used the steering wheel to hold it in place so I could get the old horn buttons out then shook the bag to get the little plastic bits that were broken off the buttons to fall out. Fought with the new buttons to get them to stay put (press to fit tabs don't just push in very easy, had to use a blunt screwdriver to push them) and put bag back on the wheel. Left button tested and I'm happy, right button tested and tabs pushed right back out. One more time off and on and the buttons are staying put, horns working properly, airbag light flashes 7 or 8 times and no explosion in my face. Put all tools away and the stupid knurled knobs I spent 15 minutes looking for are right in front of my face! I decided that Murphy is watching me today so won't do anything else to the car, going out to plant a bareroot grapevine instead.

$22.86 for the new horn switch from dealer in AZ including shipping/tax and the local dealer wanted full list of $27 so I saved by buying on ebay.
Those horn buttons are really a weak little plastic mess and now I know why they are always broken. I now have the wiring to make my own next time.

My license plates/stickers finally came in. I called the dealer and they checked, package got to me from DMV on 1/13/2015 with the already expired 2014 tag and registration and the DEC month sticker that never gets replaced. Postmark on the package was 1/12/2015 so the DMV had never mailed them. I already had the 2015 registration and year sticker since DMV had no trouble mailing me the renewal notice for this year back in November.

OH! got the rearview mirror back on the windshield and it's staying for now. Found the type of adhesive that is a gel instead of a liquid and this type is what I've used before with success. Permatex is the brand that wouldn't stick to the glass and I couldn't find the Locktite I knew worked but this was the same type so I tried it. Got it at O'Rielly's since Everywhere else I looked only carried Permatex.

Did a little bit of troubleshooting on the 3rd brake light. Shop I used for the waterpump had mentioned that it was only getting 6 volts while trying to drum up some more money for themselves. I had put new bulbs in but got no lighting up so put it on the list of 'when I feel like it' stuff and that was today.

Got old battery out and set it in back of car for testing purposes. Removed 3rd light section with bulbs and wired it to battery, instantly lit up both bulbs. Put section back in place and wired from battery to flat blades that contact tailgate buttons, bulbs lit up. Closed window, wired in test light between buttons and flat blades and test light lit with brake pedal pushed. Removed side cargo cover and located wire connector and pins A and F after discovering connector had been messed with and clip was already broken off. Wired battery to connector pins and test light lit brighter and bulbs lit up, removed test light and bulbs still lit up. Put test light on pins of connector on body wiring and pushed brake pedal, lit up test light dimly again. Feeling good that all wiring is allowing current flow from pedal to 3rd light, removed test light and set up mirror behind car to check light while pushing brake pedal, don't have luxury of a second person right now. NO LIGHT. Feeling bummed out. Put test light back in between window and tailgate buttons and pushed pedal, lit dimly again.

Realized test light is dual 6volt and 12volt light so it must be the wires only have 6volts through them which is good enough for the test light but not the 3rd light. Now I have to figure out how a 12 volt system will put 12 volts to everything but the 3rd brake light and how it can be dropping 6 volts, maybe something to do with getting a shock every time I exit the car and touch the door to close it and I can get rid of that annoyance as well. (That is probably just the cloth seats.) Get car all put back together again and decide that putting in a couple of 6 volt bulbs might just be the quickest way to get a working 3rd brake light while I figure out the problem. I now know that 12 volts into the connector in the D-pillar will get the light working correctly so I don't have to take the tailgate trim off (which has also been 'messed with' by someone who was not very gentle). Cruise control works as of yesterday's drive so I need to find the problem between the cruise splice and the D-pillar connector.

I don't know why most people hate electrical problems, I just go after them systematically while referring to the factory wire diagram. I did finally figure out how to tell what color wire is in which pin position after studying all the related diagrams together for a while. Yellow to Pin A and black to Pin F in this case.

You should not be getting 6 volts to the light for any reason. The only way that would happen is if there was resistance dropping the other 6 volts somewhere in the wire, or the light is finding ground through another light or circuit.

Just got the 3rd brake light working correctly, put on new brake/cruise switch at pedal when it came in from Rock Auto. I had tested circuit by jumping 12volt source wire (orange) to the yellow 3rd brake light wire at switch connector and got a bright 3rd brake light. Not sure how the switch could be good for the cruise and NOT for the CHMSL but it was. Ordered through Rock Auto along with rear wiper blade and wipers for a different vehicle after finding that the local parts house didn't have the brake switch in stock.
I thought Chevy parts were easier to get than Mopar but apparently around here if you don't have a Honda or Toyota the stores make you wait for a warehouse delivery at the end of the day or next day. I put back the other stuff I was going to get and let them know that if I had to order then I would get from Rock Auto, including the double priced E-clip assortment on the Help pegs.
I put the E-clips on the 2nd seatback cables and arms where someone had removed them. I don't know what the purpose of removing them would have been. I am wondering if there is supposed to be a seat catch to hold the seatback in the upright position on the driver's side, I didn't see anything to hold it in place except passenger weight. The passenger's side has the latch that holds it in place.

The switch has different contacts for the light and the cruise circuits.

There is only a rubber stop to hold the seat on the driver's side. The latch on the passenger's side is enough to hold it upright.

Someone probably removed the E clips because they did not understand how the seat works.

You can adapt the LED bar from a Ford Escape to the 3rd brake light housing. I have done the mod to both of my wagons, and it looks nice. Just remember to get the diode and current limiting resistor in the wiring for it, or it will promptly burn out.

Been running fuel system cleaner through the car and it seems a little better. I am close to 1/4 tank again so will run some more with the next tank, don't really drive the wagon much. I have used silicone to reattach the broken end tab to the passenger side cargo light lens and to attach a piece of toothpick to replace the missing tab on the two-tabbed side, the lens stayed up for 2 days and the single end tab was loose enough to fall out of its hole so I put a little dab of silicone at that point between lens and handle to help it stay on and so far so good. I had thought about using epoxy but decided the removable silicone would be better. At least my cargo lenses aren't crumbly and falling apart at the slightest touch.

Got a cargo net, (hooks from Fred came in today), cargo seat cover latch in tan and installed them on the car after taking the lock out of the latch. I keep blue moving blankets on the rear carpet and I don't have to see the tan latch on the blue interior.  One blanket to protect the carpet and one blanket to cover anything I put in the rear until I can find a blue shade when I have the money to throw at it.

Put some silicone on the drivers door power seat switch so it would stay attached to the wood trim and now it doesn't fall into the door pocket anymore. I don't think I'll be adjusting the seat anytime soon since that might be all it takes to push the switch back down again.

Been watching Craigslist for a set of wheels but haven't found any yet and new wheels are out of the budget right now so wire caps stay on it for now.  I took a razor blade to the peeling chrome on the drivers door moulding and got that off to reveal the light gray surface underneath. I can put up with the color mismatch better than catching clothes or skin on the curled over chrome/plastic, the drivers side quarter panel moulding is just starting to curl over so it will be next.

I picked up a pair of cargo bay lenses last Friday. They are for sale.

There is a pair (maybe all 4) of aluminum Caprice lace wheels at the yard here, but shipping can get expensive to CA. I can get them this weekend only for $50 each plus shipping. If you have a business address, the shipping is cheaper.

No lace wheels for me! I really don't like wheels that look flat across their outer surface, makes the car look like it has front wheel drive. Also had them on my Chrysler/Maserati TC as the stock wheel. Can't stand wheels that have what look like rivets showing or non-polished/chrome rims, and I don't want to get started on black wheels that look like a 60's car with no wheelcovers. There really aren't many wheels I like that will work on the wagon and I am not a fan of spacers or over 17 inch rims and rubber band tires. I may have to settle for the Impala SS wheels but am still looking and may end up with Ridler 5spokes but prefer the deepdish styles like Keystone Klassics or the 454 SS truck wheels. Thanks anyway though!

I'm fine on my cargo lenses, they are on with only a little more airgap on the passenger side one than stock, all the mess is hidden from view. The driver side one is perfectly fine but doesn't light up and I don't feel like risking breaking it just to replace a bulb I don't need during the daylight.

Still running the seafoam cleaner through the last tank of fuel so drivability issues are still waiting in the wings. I would be driving it more but my brother is visiting from Louisiana and his modern Challenger R/T keeps the wagon blocked in the driveway so the minivan gets more use right now.
Checked out 2 92 Caprices at the nearby pick apart but only picked up the little chrome sill moulding behind the rear door and in front of the rear wheel. Put it on the wagon and discovered that either the wagon is dif than the sedan or the 92 is dif than my 93, the 93 wagon only attaches with one screw but the 92 sedan had 2 screws to hold it on. Both sedans were cursed with gray interiors, one was a 9C1 but was sitting on 22's and was pretty trashed.

I got to look at the roof rails in the 9C1 since the headliner was out and they look pretty beefy near the A-pillar but much thinner nearer to the B-pillar so it looks like any hefty grab handle for 250lbs is not going to happen without adding thick metal between the inner rail and the outer rail. Looked at the Crown Vics in the yard this time and just about laughed at the size of the rear swaybars! They were obviously the smaller ones and looked like they would snap in 2 if bent too far while off of the car.

I did put my side defrost vent back together with epoxy today but the plastic epoxy was thin enough to run while trying to hold 4 pieces together for a 5 minute set time. The result is looking functional but sloppy so I won't be using that type of epoxy on anything else.

The sedan rear quarter trim is different from the wagon. The rear door trim is different too.

Neglected updates.

Well since I only drive the car once or twice a week I haven't had much driving time after the seafoam but the last 2 times I drove it I noticed a much improved drive thru the parking lots. I did change one other thing before those drives and it may have made a small difference.

Looking at the A/C low side port after taking off the black cap showed me a 134-A fitting, high side is still an R12 fitting, so I put some stop leak and 134 combo into the system and got the compressor to stay on for about 5 seconds before cycling. Drove to the store and got a can of 134, put about 3/4 of it into the system and now have cold A/C. No telling how long it will last or if the compressor will grenade since I don't know what was done to it. Last time I looked at retrofit 134 setups (12 years ago) the caps were always red and blue so I just figured the car was still R12 (and empty) with the black caps.

I have had to do a little spritzing of adhesive to the headliner since it started to hang down by the windshield probably from driving with the front windows open all the time. I guess GM saved money by not putting a perimeter moulding around the headliner but that doesn't work well in SoCal where the heat just bakes the adhesive to non-existence in a few years.

Now I think I am down to just driving the Caprice wagon until I get a job since the 'look good' stuff is staring me in the face but the driving stuff seems to be alright. I did take the cheap moving blankets out of the cargo area because the sun and heat had made them start disintegrating to the touch so I'll still be looking in the local salvage yards for a dark blue cargo cover.

You will get there...baby steps,lol.

Got the wagon smog tested today (Nov 12, 2015) and it passed so I can register it in CA for another year. I did put a new fuel cap, air temp charge sensor, and air cleaner housing gasket on it last week. The numbers were close to the same as last years test just barely passing on HC and low on NOx. Finally got around to swapping the power seat switches from side to side so the passenger side now pushes down into the door panel instead of the driver's side.

The A/C is still working good.

The Caprice wagon now has a black Impala SS grille on it. Not installed with the correct fasteners because I will need to take it back off and other posts indicated the grille is easily damaged by removal.

I used the Chinese made grille from Rock Auto (first time they didn't send a magnet in the box!) and self threading nuts on the outside upper posts with silicone to keep them from backing off, silicone on the lower posts to keep them from moving around against the bracket. The two grille screws on the inner upper part should be good to keep the grille on the car. I didn't put any emblem in the grille since the hood ornament is still on the car and I haven't decided on an outline emblem or a solid emblem but am leaning toward a vinyl applique inside the outline emblem. Lots of time to decide on that.

The rocker panel moulding from the sedan has been replaced with the correct wagon part. I still haven't decided on keeping the 15" wheels and whitewalls and just using '59 Dodge crab spinner covers or waiting a lot longer to put 17's on it so I can run blackwalls. The tires on it will last quite a while longer considering the few miles I actually put on it, 1/2 tank used since Feb 12. Put a good seat switch on the passenger side with very nice woodgrain trim from ebay.

I just got done putting in another set of horn switches under the airbag in about a half hour including fabricating something to hold the heavier duty switches up from the steering wheel metal base so they could actually be pushed in from the front of the airbag cover like the originals. The only heavier duty switches I could find with wires out the side of a tall switch were on/off buttons rather than momentary on buttons but if I have to use the horns I can hit the button and go back to steering the car while the horn blares at the culprit. Not even a year and a half on the GM switches with the only use being a monthly test to make sure they still worked. The dainty little plastic clips that hold them in the air bag cover were all broken again! That happened last month and I pulled the switches outside the bag cover, taped the two parts together and just kept my finger on one while in parking lots, pushing sideways on the switch rather than down was a bit confusing.

just me wrote:

Today's little bit on the car was to install the new horn button setup in the airbag, shouldn't have taken more than 1/2 hour including 15 minutes to wait after disabling the airbag system. A lot longer than that and I have horns working the way they are supposed to.

Couldn't find my knurled knobs that take the place of a ratchet so had to fight with getting the screws out of the back of the airbag against the turn signal housing on the column, just took longer but I got all 4 of the T30 screws out and the airbag off. Couldn't get the connector apart for the airbag wire so just flipped it over and used the steering wheel to hold it in place so I could get the old horn buttons out then shook the bag to get the little plastic bits that were broken off the buttons to fall out. Fought with the new buttons to get them to stay put (press to fit tabs don't just push in very easy, had to use a blunt screwdriver to push them) and put bag back on the wheel. Left button tested and I'm happy, right button tested and tabs pushed right back out. One more time off and on and the buttons are staying put, horns working properly, airbag light flashes 7 or 8 times and no explosion in my face. Put all tools away and the stupid knurled knobs I spent 15 minutes looking for are right in front of my face! I decided that Murphy is watching me today so won't do anything else to the car, going out to plant a bareroot grapevine instead.

$22.86 for the new horn switch from dealer in AZ including shipping/tax and the local dealer wanted full list of $27 so I saved by buying on ebay.
Those horn buttons are really a weak little plastic mess and now I know why they are always broken. I now have the wiring to make my own next time.

My license plates/stickers finally came in. I called the dealer and they checked, package got to me from DMV on 1/13/2015 with the already expired 2014 tag and registration and the DEC month sticker that never gets replaced. Postmark on the package was 1/12/2015 so the DMV had never mailed them. I already had the 2015 registration and year sticker since DMV had no trouble mailing me the renewal notice for this year back in November.

OH! got the rearview mirror back on the windshield and it's staying for now. Found the type of adhesive that is a gel instead of a liquid and this type is what I've used before with success. Permatex is the brand that wouldn't stick to the glass and I couldn't find the Locktite I knew worked but this was the same type so I tried it. Got it at O'Rielly's since Everywhere else I looked only carried Permatex.

Decision made, the wagon is just going to be a drive it until it drops car. Put new Kuhmo WW tires on the front, had to put the horn switches outside of the cover again because the fabricated 'holders' didn't stay in place, and am not looking forward to the upcoming CA smog check at the end of the year. I will be saving money and looking for a pre '75 model year, smaller engine car to make into my driving project. This wagon now has non-disappearing seat switches for both sides and a tan cargo cover in the back. I anticipate the wagon remaining a daily driver for about 2 more years with just a minimum of maintenance because the TBI versions were so well made to start with.

Just a wheelcover change today, some Electra covers to replace the unloved fake wire ones the Caprice came with.

Seems like I can only see the pics on here when I am also logged in to the Station Wagon Forums at the same time. I didn't realize that when I put the pics up.

Sometimes you can copy and paste. Other than that, you can upload to photobucket, and post the URL.