Door locks. My car is possessed

Ok. I am stumped. I was working on my rear glass release issue yesterday. While back there looking around, my car made a funny sound up front. After a few seconds, it went away.

Well today, I dropped the old lady off at the store and parked the car. I shut it off and sat there for a few minutes on my phone. Then the drivers door started making that weird noise I heard the day before. When I hit unlock it went away. When I hit lock, it did it again. I got out of the car and went inside. When I came back out, key fob did not work. When turning the lock cylinder, it was so tough I thought I'd snap the damn key off. It unlocked and I went on my way. Stopped at another store and some how my door was locked again. Odd.

I left it unlocked and went inside, when I got back, my door was locked. I had checked all the fuses and all was good there. I picked up a door lock relay while in town. I also picked up another relay for the convienence center block as one felt unusually warm. So, now that I'm at home, I start troubleshooting. Check all the fuses again just to be sure. I now notice my convienence lights are out. I replaced the center relay in the block as it was the warm one, but nothing. So I pulled the door lock relay and replaced. Nothing. I moved the relays around in the convienence center for the hell of it. Nothing. Unplugged the drivers side door lock switch. Nothing and the key was still hard to turn. then unplugged the door lock relay and the interior lights went bizerk. Map lights, door lights, they started flashing rapidly. I unplugged the far right relay in the convience center and it stopped. I also notice the door lock is now easy to move.

I don't know what that one relay does, but all other things in the car work other than the door locks. Is the door lock actuator to blame?

It could be your remote module. Sometimes the relays get stuck, and it can cause havoc. You have to reprogram it when you install a replacement. If you can not get one from a PNP yard, I have a couple for sale. They are year sensitive 91 has gray connectors, 92-93 are green, and 94-96 are black.

How do you program it? Would that module prevent me from being able to use the door lock buttons also? I was thinking I should be able to override the key fob with manual buttons, but could be wrong.just don't understand why it wants to keep locking the drivers side door

Well today, plugged the relays back in and unplugged the bottom connector to the keyless remote box. The door locks all worked except the drivers side front and so did the top glass release. This is only with the door buttons, key fob is still in op. So, either it is the remote box or the drivers front actuator. I would have to assume the actuator since it was the one acting up and not its the only one not working. Unless the drivers door only ties into one side of the remote box and the remaining are a seperate circuit?

Well, I read wiring diagram. It is seperate and not conrtolled by the door lock relay if I'm reading it correct. If that's true, then it would appear actuator is good and it has to be the module

Are the modules different between the sedans and wagons? I would think the trigger for the trunk lock would work the same for the top glass

The sedan and wagon modules are the same. The driver's side front usually is one push on the button, and the rest of the doors on the second push. I have seen instructions for different modes that are actuated by different sequences when programming the remote, but I do not remember the difference.

Well found a 95 RMW at the boneyard today. Got the box out of it and the glass unlock solenoid. Put the solenoid in and the rear glass pops every time now. Looks like I got two spare boxes now.