TBI 355 No Fuel

Finished my 355 crate motor swap. Everything bolted down and plugged in. Go to start it up, spark, crank but no fuel coming out the injectors. Fuel pump does NOT prime at key on. It does however pump all the way TO the throttle body when 12v is applied to it at the test plug. The following has been done.

-Grounds cleaned/inspected
-pump relay swapped with known good
-pump fuse checked
-New dizzy ICM swapped with previously known good dizzy/icm (both with Delco ICM's)
-New cap/rotor

Injectors were rebuilt appx 2 years and 12k miles ago.

Check your oil pressure sender.

Sender and pigtail are brand new

Are you getting voltage for the energizer coil of the fuel pump relay? Are you getting voltage to the high side of the relay? Are you getting a good ground for the relay when you turn the key on?

The wires under the front of the engine are subject to a lot of heat, and sometimes will have insulation issues. Your signal from the oil pressure sensor may not be getting to the relay.

IS there a security system involved?

Nope.

Cadet57 wrote:

Sender and pigtail are brand new

bench test it. I've bought too many brand new parts that were more dead than a parrot in a Monty Python sketch.

You may be getting fuel but maybe not enough fuel. Car's been sitting a while, with fuel in the tank? Maybe bad feed hose, fuel pump may be sticky from sitting.

MalibuSSwagon wrote:

You may be getting fuel but maybe not enough fuel. Car's been sitting a while, with fuel in the tank? Maybe bad feed hose, fuel pump may be sticky from sitting.

Thats what ive been thinking BUT, the car was started and drove into the garage in October. So really it hasn't been sitting THAT long, really no more than when i'd put it in storage for the winter.

Also, jumpered the oil pressure sender wiring. It has power and primes the pump so I now know the wiring TO the OPS is good. Waiting for UPS to deliver my noid light to see if we have injector power.

does the check engine light come on when you turn the key to run? if it doesn't you either have no battery 12v to ecm or no 12v ignition fed,check your fuses to make sure they aren't blown.also you can use a test light to check for 12 volts at injector plug if you do probe opposite wire on injector plug with test light connected to battery positive , crank engine if light flashes you have pulse .oil pressure switch is just a back up in case f.p. relay fails,you will usually experience a extended crank time when this occurs & obviously not hear the pump prime at key on.also check the 2 wire lead from ignition coil to dist,should have 12volts on red or pink wire to dist I have seen many with bad connections at coil end in the moulded connector . if you don't have 12v there dist wont be alive to trigger injectors but can still have spark,seems impossible but been there done that.

occ6.6 wrote:

does the check engine light come on when you turn the key to run? if it doesn't you either have no battery 12v to ecm or no 12v ignition fed,check your fuses to make sure they aren't blown.also you can use a test light to check for 12 volts at injector plug if you do probe opposite wire on injector plug with test light connected to battery positive , crank engine if light flashes you have pulse .oil pressure switch is just a back up in case f.p. relay fails,you will usually experience a extended crank time when this occurs & obviously not hear the pump prime at key on.also check the 2 wire lead from ignition coil to dist,should have 12volts on red or pink wire to dist I have seen many with bad connections at coil end in the moulded connector . if you don't have 12v there dist wont be alive to trigger injectors but can still have spark,seems impossible but been there done that.

CEL/ other dash lights come on at key on/run. No injector power/pulse via noid light. I have power to the distributor and coil.

Check fuse #11, and check that the injectors are being grounded by the computer.

like fred said check # 11 if its good you should have power on red wires at injectors , use a test light or voltmeter.if you do not have battery voltage on red wires & fuse is ok you have a broken wire somewhere.try jumping red wires to another power source (battery positive will work in a pinch) & do the noid light thing ,if she flashes plug injectors in & try to fire it,if it runs find your open circuit.if it does run you will have to disconnect your temporary jumper to shut it down.good luck

You do not have to remove your jumper to shut it down. Just turn the key off. The gas and spark will stop, and the computer will stop grounding the injectors.

occ6.6 wrote:

like fred said check # 11 if its good you should have power on red wires at injectors , use a test light or voltmeter.if you do not have battery voltage on red wires & fuse is ok you have a broken wire somewhere.try jumping red wires to another power source (battery positive will work in a pinch) & do the noid light thing ,if she flashes plug injectors in & try to fire it,if it runs find your open circuit.if it does run you will have to disconnect your temporary jumper to shut it down.good luck

So, went under/behind the engine adjusted/ rechecked the PS and DS head grounds. NOW, no CEL at key on. Just digital speedo and seat belt light. I have 12v at the injectors. So now I'm thinking something in the grounds? The fueses are all good.

I would check the grounds on your driver's side A pillar.

are the ground points on the heads free of paint? is the ground to the body from the battery good? check the head grounds to see if the wires are not broken right where they crimp onto eyelet.the insulation might look fine but the wire inside could be broken,give the wire a little tug ,if it pulls away from eyelet you might have found issue.

occ6.6 wrote:

are the ground points on the heads free of paint? is the ground to the body from the battery good? check the head grounds to see if the wires are not broken right where they crimp onto eyelet.the insulation might look fine but the wire inside could be broken,give the wire a little tug ,if it pulls away from eyelet you might have found issue.

He said he already fixed the engine issues by redoing the grounds at the back of the heads to the firewall. His issue now is in the interior.

is it up and running?