Starter crank issues

1988 chevy caprice 307.

Currently, i turn the key and the motor cranks until it gets fuel and then the starter spins out.

Been having transmission issues for a while, check engine light is on but cant check codes. Pretty sure the computer died.

But back to the starter. Not sure how its possible for the starter and fuel to interfere with eachother and dont know where to begin.
Any suggestions of what to check first?

You should fix the trans issue before anything. The starter solenoid may not have enough umph to hold the gear in place. There is a 90 Caprice in the local yard, but I do not know what engine it has in it.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

You should fix the trans issue before anything. The starter solenoid may not have enough umph to hold the gear in place. There is a 90 Caprice in the local yard, but I do not know what engine it has in it.

I'm to the point where If I'm desperate and it's cheap ill find another tranny, but if it's too much I'm going to try finding a 350 w/ tranny and do a swap.

Depending on what rear you have, you may need a custom driveshaft, or one from a car with the same trans and rear. There are a couple of different sizes. You will also need the computer from the donor car, and maybe the wiring harness.

Turns out the starter solenoid was super fried. New starter sorta fixed the problem. Now the car starts but wont stay running without constant throttle, and it runs rough.
Cant find any vacuum leaks. Suggestions?

zirphex wrote:

Turns out the starter solenoid was super fried. New starter sorta fixed the problem. Now the car starts but wont stay running without constant throttle, and it runs rough.
Cant find any vacuum leaks. Suggestions?

I know it is highly unlikely that this is the issue but I will still throw it in as an idea. Our Honda Element recently had a similar issue where it would start weird then won't stay running without constant throttle. If we let off the throttle the RPMs would be all over the place and it'd try to shut off. Turns out the car battery had a bad cell and was barely putting out 12v which was causing issues with the ignition. New battery fixed it right up.

Again, probably not the issue you're having but it's an idea...

TheRoadmasterKing wrote:

zirphex wrote:

Turns out the starter solenoid was super fried. New starter sorta fixed the problem. Now the car starts but wont stay running without constant throttle, and it runs rough.
Cant find any vacuum leaks. Suggestions?

I know it is highly unlikely that this is the issue but I will still throw it in as an idea. Our Honda Element recently had a similar issue where it would start weird then won't stay running without constant throttle. If we let off the throttle the RPMs would be all over the place and it'd try to shut off. Turns out the car battery had a bad cell and was barely putting out 12v which was causing issues with the ignition. New battery fixed it right up.

Again, probably not the issue you're having but it's an idea...

I appreciate the suggestion but it wont stay running at all. I'll throw a voltmeter on the battery anyway just to check. What you experienced sounds like a possible alternator issue as well. I've seen some strange things happen because of a bad alternator.

zirphex wrote:

I appreciate the suggestion but it wont stay running at all. I'll throw a voltmeter on the battery anyway just to check. What you experienced sounds like a possible alternator issue as well. I've seen some strange things happen because of a bad alternator.

I had a few other people tell me to get my alternator checked and when AZ tested it, it was fine.

Now, earlier I had also tested my old battery with the volt meter and I got 13V across the terminals and thought it was good, but when I took it to the mechanic for the 100-amp load test it dropped to 11v, that's when it failed.

Check your grounds. I am not sure where they are on an 88, so you need a repair manual. On the 91-93 there is a ground at the thermostat housing. It is the ground for the computer, O2 sensor, and something else. Grounds are as important as the power side of the system.

You should also have grounds at the back of the heads, and check your main cable to the block, and the ends of the cable as well.

Has the set screw for "minimum air" on the Throttle Body unit been adjusted?