Headlight switch

95 RMW. This must have been discussed before but I can't find that thread.

Looking for the right way to replace my headlight switch. It still works but its mounting has come loose so you can't turn the headlights off by simply pushing the switch. Instead, I have to pull off the access door to the fuse assembly and hold the headlight switch in place while I push the switch off.

How much of the dash do I have to remove to access and replace the switch? I can access the switch once I've removed the fuse door but it certainly isn't going to come out that way and there isn't enough room for me to get my hand in there to release the push-pull knob.

I'm asking because I don't want to pop off any more of those plastic tabs that I have too. I found out the hard way that they they get brittle.

Thanks, Bill

Bump

By memory, I believe all you have to take off is the faceplate on the dash. I think 2 screws by the speedo unit and just start from one side and work your way to the other pulling the faceplate towards you. You all need to drop your steering wheel all the way down and the shift down all the way also. Just take your time it's pretty easy.

Tom

The switch has a plastic nut to hold it to the dash support. It is a weird nylon nut with a hole in it. It also has extremely fine threads. It is prone to breaking at the base of the threads. There are no new ones available. Your best bet is to figure out how to make a new "bolt" out of aluminum, and retap the hole in the switch frame to match the threads on the new bolt.

Thanks

I remember reading someplace on the forum, you can use a metal nut instead from a Camaro. I believe Nick might know about it.

tom

I read that there is a metal nut on another type of car somewhere too, but I do not remember where, or what car.

I heard that GM trucks and vans of the same vintage have metal nuts, but I never got around to digging around at the yard for any.

I just fixed mine this weekend.  The metal nut came from a late 80's/early 90's GMC van.





This is where it breaks off.  A small pair of pliers was used to thread out the broken piece.



The metal nut doesn't have the "guide" that the plastic one does, but the rod doesn't flop around...it just works.

As far as what all had to come apart, I took the two 7mm screws out from above the speedo, and pulled the dash piece back just by the light switch. There is another 7mm screw at the bottom of the black switch surround, and two of the pressure clips at the top that need to be pulled out, this is after pulling the black knob and metal rod out from the switch. I think it took me 15 minutes to do.

It would be nice to know the model. They make at least 6 different vans.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

It would be nice to know the model. They make at least 6 different vans.

Well the Astro used a dash-pod rocker switch, and the Lumina Dustbuster did too, so I would guess a G-series van, think "A-team". I know those G-vans used a traditional pull-on, push-off switch well into the 90's, before the Express came out.

Also I believe it was the same switch used in the 73-87 "bulldog" full-size GM pickups and 73-91 Suburban and K-Blazer.

Happy Hunting.

-Texas Mike

Yep, an A Team van , full size. There wasn't much left of the one I found in the junkyard, so I couldn't tell you if it was a G10, G20, or whatever they named them....and honestly didn't look. I just seen the push/pull light switch and figured I would give it a try. The push/pull on/off switch would be in front of your left knee sitting in the seat. I think there were 4 philips screws holding the small trim panel on, and a 5/8 socket took the nut off.

HueyLt1 wrote:

Yep, an A Team van   , full size.  There wasn't much left of the one I found in the junkyard, so I couldn't tell you if it was a G10, G20, or whatever they named them....and honestly didn't look.  I just seen the push/pull light switch and figured I would give it a try.  The push/pull on/off switch would be in front of your left knee sitting in the seat.  I think there were 4 philips screws holding the small trim panel on, and a 5/8 socket took the nut off.

In return for lunch a buddy whipped out this part for me. We retapped the switch to 7/16 20 as Fred suggested. If anyone needs one he will make one for $50 + shipping.

It would have been easier to get a 7/16 20 aluminum or nylon bolt and just drill a hole in it. The guide is not necessary.