what else..? VATS pita

Can the VATS be easily removed..?
i know i can put a resistor in to bypass the one in the keys (both cars have #(300 ohm)) but i would like to just pull the system out by the roots and put it in the attic for futur generations to scratch their heads over.. :-)
thanks..

You can check the resistance of the pill on your key, and put an equivalent value resistor across the vats leads under the dash. The car will think the key is in the ignition at all times, and you will have effectively eliminated the VATS.

The resistor trick only works as long as the VATS module itself is good. Once it fails it won’t matter what resistors you have.

It can be deleted but it requires a tune that disables it.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

You can check the resistance of the pill on your key, and put an equivalent value resistor across the vats leads under the dash. The car will think the key is in the ignition at all times, and you will have effectively eliminated the VATS.

thank you fred, i did that already and have 300 ohm resistors BUT like 94woody said, i would like to remove the entire VATS thing since i want to avoid the chance of being unable to start one of these cars when out someplace..

94Woody wrote:

The resistor trick only works as long as the VATS module itself is good. Once it fails it won’t matter what resistors you have.

It can be deleted but it requires a tune that disables it.

thank you woody, you say "tune"..? can any indy shop do that..?
can you tell me more, please..

A tune is a modified program for your computer. You can make a lot of changes that can enhance your performance at the same time as eliminating the VATS. You can even remove the speed limiter, and make more HP. Changing the tune is also known as flashing the computer.

You can remove the VATS module to disable it completely, but you need to replace it with a normal 12v relay to activate the starter. The ignition switch wiring is too small to run the coil in the starter solenoid but will run the coil on a relay. You put the ignition wire to the coil and power to the starter on the contacts. If you don't want a relay, then you would need to string a bigger wire from the ignition switch to starter solenoid like they did in the 9C1 cars.

Best and easiest to get rid of it all is to replace the module with a relay and then have the program tuned to totally eliminate the VATS from activating in the computer also, which will also kill the VATS light from staying on all the time.

When you tune it out there is zero need for any relays. You remove the module and throw it in the trash can. After that you jump two wires at the module plug. As simple as sticking a paper clip in the plug. I cut my wires loose and connected them together. After that you load up the bin you downloaded from your PCM with flash hack into Tuner Pro RT and uncheck a couple of boxes. Save the bin and upload it to your PCM with flash hack. Viola, you will never ever ever have to worry about VATS again.

Everything to tune a 1995 is available for free on the internet, Just need a laptop and an ALDL cable.

Not just any shop can or will do it because they most likely have no clue on how to do it.

It's not that difficult but not everyone is comfortable with it. I still have to do it for a member that is local to me but I've been too wrapped up in my own junk.

94Woody wrote:

When you tune it out there is zero need for any relays. You remove the module and throw it in the trash can. After that you jump two wires at the module plug. As simple as sticking a paper clip in the plug. I cut my wires loose and connected them together. After that you load up the bin you downloaded from your PCM with flash hack into Tuner Pro RT and uncheck a couple of boxes. Save the bin and upload it to your PCM with flash hack. Viola, you will never ever ever have to worry about VATS again.

Everything to tune a 1995 is available for free on the internet, Just need a laptop and an ALDL cable.

Not just any shop can or will do it because they most likely have no clue on how to do it.

It's not that difficult but not everyone is comfortable with it. I still have to do it for a member that is local to me but I've been too wrapped up in my own junk.

I will try to find my posts with the wiring diagram for at least a 96 like we have.  There are 4 wires of consequence to the module, IIRC.  One small gauge wire goes from the ignition switch to the control side of the module through a "theft deterrent relay", one small wire goes out from the module to ground.  This is the "coil" of the module relay, and it is controlled by the logic computer.  The third wire is a 12v hot to the "contacts" side of the relay and the fourth wire goes to starter relay.   You probably could get it to work by connecting wire one to wire two still using the old relay.  The 9C1 is wired directly from the ignition switch to the starter relay, so no relay to fail. There does appear to be some odd info on the internet about the location of the theft deterrent relay, though. I have never found ours yet, but haven't looked very hard. It would be nice to find so easier to fix it the 26 year old relay fails. There is also some information around that if you don't write it out of the program, there seems to be another pcm controlled stop point that shuts off the fuel pump, but I have have not found that. Some people say the car starts and then dies which would sound like the pump going off after the prime but before much time running.

No “probably” to it because mine has been deleted with the process I described for years without issue. I took that process directly from the many threads over at the ISSF that deal with the problem. One person has a method of grounding a wire at the relay itself but it is just a more difficult version of what others do.