Brakes getting hot

Hi, my brakes are getting hot and my new rotors are warped. I checked to make sure they're all working, front and rear. I thought I had a stuck caliper so I replaced both front calipers. The pedal feels fine and it even seems to stop OK but I can smell them burning sometimes when I come to stop. I'm a loss. Thanks in advance for any advice, Mike

stuck e-brake? what kind of rotors did you buy?

E brake only works on the rears.

You may have installed the police version of the pads, that are thicker than the standard pads. Are they tight on the disks? There is a disclaimer in the box with new disks, that you should make sure they are trued before installation. If the new disks are warped, you may have to have them trued. There may be some oil or grease on the pads that is making them smell like they are burning. Lift each wheel and check that they are turning freely with the pads installed. You may also want to check the bearings in the new hubs for proper preload. The axle nuts should only be finger tight after the initial 12 lb. ft. of torque while turning, and then unscrewing and retightening with the fingers. The castle nut gets moved to the nearest hole and a cotter pin inserted. There are two holes for the cotter pin, so you should not move the nut more than one flat looser than finger tight. Too tight can make them heat up.

Your new rotors are warped? Are the pads new? If yes, how new is all this stuff? New pads kinda smell and might smoke a bit while all the chemicals, and what not "burn off". Are your rear brakes in good shape and adjusted properly? If the rears are not adjusted right the fronts may be doing more work than they need to be doing.

On the warped rotor issue.... Read this article.
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

Joel (Shirlock9C1) turned me on to this article about 3-4 years ago, I thought it was a bunch of boloney, but it's the truth.

Did you flush the lines? Old brake fluid, contaminated brake fluid or air in the lines can all cause a pressure build-up when the brakes get normally warm. The pressure then causes the brakes to drag, overheating them.

Thanks, I replaced the rotors, pads and calipers at the same time. No more burning smell but the rotors are warped and it happened in less than 1000 miles. I adjusted the rear brakes and greased the auto adjusters. The shoes and drums look fine.
My next trick is going to be to flush the master cylinder and lines. The fluid is black.

Don't forget to read the Stop Tech article.....

Ok thanks.

You may have a brake hose that's internally collapsed and is acting as a one-way valve.

While the car is cool, jack it up and take the wheel off, then stand on the brakes, release them, then crack open the bleeder screw and see if brake fluid shoots out.  If it does, then that's your problem.  

With an internally collapsed hose, when you step on the brake pedal, the pressure overwhelms the collapsed section and activates the brakes, but when you release, not all of the fluid can exit back through the hose before it collapses again and so you get residual brake application.  Fluid shooting out of the bleeder screw under pressure while at rest is a dead giveaway.

BTW - rotors aren't "warped" unless you put a dial indicator on it and MEASURE them out of spec. I have had rotors that pulsate like crazy with less than the factory spec of runout. The article Mike linked will explain more.

I don't know if it's your problem, but sometime when front end parts are worn, you will get a chatter when you hit the brakes.

Tom

That's a good point Tom. It does need a left upper control arm.

silverfox103 wrote:

I don't know if it's your problem, but sometime when front end parts are worn, you will get a chatter when you hit the brakes.

Tom

Had the same problem with an idler arm that loosened up.

Well, the same problem as me. Warped rotors due to bad material.(imho) Found no sollution other than replacing for quality rotors?
Pete

I just replaced the pads today. They were almost shot and the rotors are baked. Everything looked like it had 70,000 miles on it and I only replaced everything last year. I'm going to try opening up all the bleeders and flushing the system. Don't what what else it could be.
My Brother suggested it could the proportioning valve But I dunno....

Check the brake pedal lever at the firewall because thats all I can think of.Years ago my nephew replaced the master cylinder on his RX-7 and thought he would get a stiffer brake pedal by exstending the mc rod.Put everything back together and the next day his mom took it to work.Got about 3 miles before the front brakes locked up due to the brakes dragging.