93 tbi header options

I got a 93 rmw tbi 350 and I figured I do headers since I'm doing a full exhaust system and I want some options no preference on if they are long tubes or shorty's just wants some options

Most of the headers will require that you install the rear plugs before you install the headers, or remove the starter to access the rear plug. Headman shortys for a Chevelle will bolt up with minimal effort. You loose the EGR function, and the CEL will come on while driving on the highway.

If you want full length headers, you will probably have to modify them, because they usually hit the braces between the frame and rear lower arm pivots. The tops of the header tubes can be cut, and the headers bent so the ouput ends are about 1 inch closer to the engine, then filled with a wedge and welded shut. That will compromise the spark plug clearance a little, but should still fit. The rear plug on the passenger's side can still be reached from below, although you may have to remove the starter to reach it. JEGS or Summit headers for a Chevelle, or full size Chevy. JEGS 30050

One option is to put iridium plugs in the engine, to minimize the frequency of replacement.

Use the Proform wedge locking header bolts to keep them from loosening. All header bolts will be difficult to get the wrench on, and you may have to dent the header at the bolt position to do so. Measure the length you need before purchasing. You can also use lock washers under standard head bolts. It may be easier to install the bolts if you get them with Allen heads, and put a lock washer under them. You may need an Allen tool with a bulb end to allow for angular displacement when installing. Use bolts with a prevailing torque nut, or the Proform wedge lock bolts for the collectors. The torque setting for the Proform bolts is 28 Ft Lb minimum.

Okay awesome I thing I'm gonna just go with the long tubes route just for a little more mid and top end power any possible part numbers I can use

I gave you a JEGS number. You will have to modify them. They are a copy of the Heddman headers, that would also require modification. They are painted, and after modification, having them ceramic coated would be an option. Using header paint would be another option. The header paint is not very durable until it is heat cured by the exhaust. You can also cure it with a heat gun, but you must get it really hot...500 deg. Paint the headers only after all fitting is done. If you do not modify the headers, you will have to remove the braces for the rear lower arm pivots. I suggest modifying the headers to retain the chassis integrity. You will have to make a couple of other dents in the headers to clear some odds and ends like the temp sensor for the gauge. I would also use the plug wire/boot socks to avoid melting the ignition wire boots at the plugs. You can use a ball peen hammer to make adjustments for clearance.

Anywhere the headers come within 2 inches of anything that is not metal or has fluid in it, that part should be shielded with heat protective wrap. e.g. brake lines, heater hose, wires.

The oil pressure sender needs to be turned 90 deg to the back with 1 1/2 inch pipe nipple, and an elbow. I put the O2 sensor in the collector of the header, in front of the transmission linkage. It must be in the top 1/2 of the header. The single O2 sensor will need an extension patch wire. The wire from the O2 sensor is stainless steel, and connecting the two parts with a crimp connector works best. I made one with a pigtail from a JY wiring harness, and the wire from a failed O2 sensor. You need another clip to hold the O2 sensor wire away from the header at the front of the flex plate cover. Put heat shielding on the patch cable.

If you have access to a spare crossmember, you need to have a cutout made for the second exhaust pipe. I suggest welding a 14 inch 3/8 inch plate on top of the crossmember where you want the cutout to be, and then cut the crossmember out from under the plate, finishing with welding some of the metal cut off to cover the open ends. I can send you a picture of mine if you need a reference. The left pipe will be close to the floor of the car. I use the bolts on the drive shaft catcher as additional hanger points for the pipe. You can get a right muffler hanger from any 91-93, and it will bolt up to already drilled holes in the left side of the hanger crossmember. If you get the tank shields from a 94-96, they will bolt up to the car and shield the tank. If you do not use the shields, put header wrap on the pipes around the tank. If you want to dump the exhaust in front of the axle, you can dump them straight back or down a little. The axle is above the pipe when the car's weight is on the suspension. Using a slight down turn will keep the exhaust off of the tank.