before I replace things that don't need replacement...

In the industry, we call this "scope creep" - it started out with a gasket change and now I'm looking at suspension work.

One of the upper ball joints seems to be clunking, and probably needs further investigation and replacement. Looks like I can do this on the car, and it also looks like there's no reason to replace the whole control arms unless badly rusted or damaged based on reading the threads here.

I can get a good look at the upper suspension bushings now that the exhaust manifolds are out. They're cracked, as expected, but I'm not sure if they need to be replaced. Should I just do it since now I have easy access to them, or can I test them somehow to avoid doing needless work? What else would you folks recommend get changed "just because" while in there?

Springs seem OK. I'm not sure there's any reason to change those either unless they're damaged somehow. They shouldn't go bad, I would think.

Also I notice the outer tie-rod end on the passenger side appears bent. Not sure if that's by design or not, I would expect it be straight.

If you are going to replace the upper ball joint, replace both on of them. Since your bushings are cracked, and you are thinking about replacing them as well, get a set of upper arms from Rock Auto. They cost about the same as the parts to refresh your current ones. Remember to use the 5% discount code on the forum.


When removing the arms, knock the studs out of the frame. If you do not, you will be removing the steering intermediate shaft, and maybe some other parts as well. There is a nice tool for removing the ball joints from the spindle in the Haynes manual. It is a 1/2 inch bolt, washer and nut with a 15mm deep socket. The bolt is about 3 inches long.

One of the tie rods, by design, is indeed bent. I don't recall which.

If you're considering replacing exhaust manifolds, troll the Impala SS forum for a set of headers. You might as well get some benefit from doing all that work.

Springs you're fine, unless you want to lower the car.

Do your shocks pass the bounce test? If not, do 'em. Easy job (assuming no rust).

The ball joints will require grinding if they have never been replaced before. Be prepared for this.

The outer tie rod ends both have a slight bend on new parts (Moog - a slight bend about an inch past the end of the threads).

I can't add too much more that hasn't already been said. Just good luck, and I hope the jobs go quickly!

Thanks all, let me try and compile a single response here.
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Thanks for the verification, I wonder if the bent-ness implies they were replaced, assuming the factory ones were straight.

Fred: I was a little concerned about the quality of the components being used on Dorman's replacement control arms- I agree that price-wise it's a compelling option. Also- knocking out the studs- I assume you're saying to remove the nuts and spacers and then tap them out with a hammer? Obviously this isn't mentioned in the Haynes book, but I see the logic in doing this.

Stingroo: Interesting idea. I hadn't thought of the SS header option. I'll take a look around. I have a set of LT1 manifolds off another car (Camaro?) that are slightly different. There's a oxygen sensor hole in one of them, and both have a conical output flange for a ball/socket downpipe which my wagon doesn't have. I got the studs out of those manifolds just fine (of course), but I don't know if there's some option to use them besides having the flanges machined down, which is technically possible. I know a guy with a machine shop.

I would back the nuts off until they are just covering the ends of the studs, and you can get them off with your fingers. When you whack the end, you will not booger up the threads, and you can still get the nut off. You should replace the nuts anyway. Removing the shims is a good idea too, so that they do not take flight, because you will need them again in the same stack height.

I did not check the component list on the complete arms, and it is a concern. If you are not going to get new arms, buy the best components you can afford.

Hey, I got the busted stud out of the manifold myself. I took it to an auto shop and even with the heat wrench, it wouldn't budge. Long story short- drilled a hole in it, pounded it out with punches and then cleaned up the threads with a tap.

So, anyway, of the available suspension parts manufacturers- any recommendations? mevotech, moog, acdelco, raybestos...

I grabbed all Moog components for my front end rebuild and am quite happy with the quality/price.

I figure if it's good enough for NASCAR, it's probably good enough for my car.

I was going to lean toward Moog only because I know the name is associated with suspension parts. I guess marketing works.

If I were to go and buy the standard 12-ton shop press from Harbor Freight, is it difficult to press those bushings in and out? Do you need special arbors or plates or whatnot?

I think I'll answer myself on this one. Digging into it, from a cost and time perspective, buying the Moog control arms as a unit is going to be the way I attack this. Once I get the oil pan gasket changed out, that is.