Shammoo update

Bewber wrote:

A T56 car with 456 (or nicks 488s) would be serious in a standing mile.

I have one of those t56 4:88 cars,.,.and yes i think it,d work pretty good,. BUT,. driveshaft rpm becomes pretty scary with .050 overdrive,.making a carbon fibre shaft mandatory,.



Tire Size: 255-50-17
//
Final Drive Ratio (Axle Ratio of driven wheels): 4:88


Gear Ratio
0.50

RPM Redline:6250

6th gear
0 0.0
500 15.9
1000 31.8
1500 47.7
2000 63.6 <<<<<<<<< for all you people that think 4:88's are too much,.
2500 79.5 <<<<<<<<< do the math with a 4l60E and 3:73's,..
3000 95.4
3500 111.3
4000 127.3
4500 143.2
5000 159.1 <<<<<< inmho definitely attainable,.
5500 175.0
6000 190.9
6250 198.8

This years motor is a very light 383, mild cam but with good valve springs,.aluminum flywheel etc,.and the carbon fibre shaft,.

aerodynamics, play a huge part in vehicle speed after 120mph,.you need a fine thread at the back to push it thru the air,.or ungodly amounts of torque,.or a slippery shape,.wagon would need some sort of aerofoil(s) to break the vacuum created behind it because of its shape,.i had the blue wagon to 133mph downhill slightly with favourable wind, with its' 2:56's

Nick

Great info Nick!, Thanks.
That rpm/mph ratio doesn't seem to far off from what these crummy 3.09 are getting in 4th gear. at 3000, I get 91 mph, ( similar to your 3000/95) It's just I don't have those extra gears available in your T56 to get me there as quickly.

This year I'm hoping to add both a posi unit (don't have one in Shammoo yet) and likely to switch to 3.42:1 Both things will help hook up for the 1/4 mile times, but shouldn't destroy my already bad gas mileage.

New pics of console progress


Torn out the old unit. Any one can restore. It beer and balls and more beer an a sawzall to cut one up!.

Several beers.. one sawzall





The whole unit together, still missing the Computer port for programming on the lower section:





Close up of the upper portion





If you are unfamiliar with fuel curve mapping , this is my current upper RPM fuel map.
The highly modded TPI system in Shammoo has required that I learn how to reprogram the ECM




Not shown here is the fact that My ports for the computer link are not in the console yet, as well as the ECM cooling fan still needs to be mounted. More pics to come as progress dictates.

Love that console. Looks awesome.

sawzall and beer,. sounds like a youtube moment,.(or the death of a rust free WB4)

nick

I seriously doubt a normally aspirated engine in our wagons could even begin to pull 6th gear without 5 to 600 lb ft of torque.And that would have to be available between 4500 and 5500
rpms.Like Nick said torque is needed way more than horsepower to keep these cars accelerating
in the higher gears especially 0.50 6th gear.With Daves engine setup the way it is now 4 gears
are more than enough with his present gearing.I just think it would be great to see one of our
wagons run 140 to 150 mph in the standing mile.
Ultimately twin turbos or a 3 litre displacement supercharger on a LS-7 would be my dream
package.Or maybe a CTS_V wagon with a Hennesey 1000 horsepower upgrade.I guess I can
always dream about taking one of our wagons to an rediculous speed and watching the world
disappear in the rearview mirror.
This could get interesting
Jim Gordon

I can't recall what the factory ECM fuel shutoff speed is, but mine is reprogrammable. It's currently set at a wishful thinking 180mph. Just call me Mr. Conserative.

Stayed up on my bad foot too long yesterday, paying for it today via lots of swelling in the ankle and foot. I'm told I should wrap it in something cold to reduce the swelling, but the beer cold bottles keep rolling off. DAMN!

just picture this as your foot:

Morning All! Dave after having 5 operations on my left foot I have some expierence in this matter.Buy your beer in 1/4 and 1/2 kegs and just strap your foot to the cold keg.This way
your foot stays cold,you stay off your feet and you dont have to get up to get your beer out of the fridge.The single most important thing to work out was pee breaks.Carrying the keg to the
bathroom wasnt a good idea and then it came to me.VELCRO your foot to the keg and then just
pee breaks are no longer a problem.Note use the hospital grade velcro as its much quieter to
remove at night and then you wont wake everybody up and it has the soft backing.
And yes I have put a great deal of thought and effort into solving the problem.
You Are Welcome Dave
Jim Gordon

You guys are killing me!

I'm laughing with tears in my eyes!
Thanks for the great ideas!

Dave

Well, it's been awhile since I've posted any "official" updates.

First off, the foot is healing well, from being broken. I've been back to work for the past few weeks. It gets a little swollen still, but range of motion has been improved.. a bit of trouble going down steps, but up is OK. Thanks to all for the kind thoughts, prayers and private messages of encouragement.


I'm getting back to work on Shammoo. I've been doing some reprogramming on the low RPM range. Mostly I do back and forth to work which is about 5 miles and 8 stop lights away. The trip leaves no opportunity to get over 35 MPH. (OK... no LEGAL opportunity) Previous recorded gas mileage has been all of 8.8mph. It's now up to 9.1 which equates to a 3% gain. It still sucks. So I'm slowly working on leaning out the open loop idle, and lower fuel table for when closed loop kicks in.

Additionally I'll be turning 'Highway Mode' back on. GM used it on OBD1 cars to raise the commanded AFR to improve gas mileage. It's something the GM was forced by the government to turn off, as they thought it was cheating the C.A.F.E. numbers. But all the hard code is still in there. I just need to drop the engagement speed from the stupid 200 mph to something reasonable again like 50mph.

I have the lower console almost fully wired now. I need to add some foot well lighting into the car, and still need to throw a few LED's into it. Then the lower half will be done.

I added the check engine light, ECM datalogging port, Prominator selector switch and secondary release button for the rear gate. I also added the thermostatically controlled ECM cooling fan.


On the overhead console thread that's at the SS forum, I decided to use the temperature sensor to do something different that show the outside temperature. I'm going to strap the sensor to my ECM to see what temperature it runs at. I figured it ties in better with the ECM cooling fan project, and now I'll have an indicator for it.

So the lower section is near ready to install. Kind of got that industrial look going with stainless steel allen cap screws holding everything together.

While it's out though, I'm trying to clean up rat's nest of wires that are under there, and extend a few others to make plugging into the consoles via modular plugs easier.

Started work on the upper console today as well. I stripped the fabric off after separating the halves. It will having matching grey tweed, like the seats when I' done. I'm also adding LED lighting around the edges of the upper unit to get more interior lighting going. A much as I hate wiring, it's not the intimidating challenge it used to be.


Pics to come in the next few days soon.

Quote :

Additionally I'll be turning 'Highway Mode' back on. GM used it on OBD1 cars to raise the commanded AFR to improve gas mileage. It's something the GM was forced by the government to turn off, as they thought it was cheating the C.A.F.E. numbers. But all the hard code is still in there. I just need to drop the engagement speed from the stupid 200 mph to something reasonable again like 50mph.

Interesting. Any more details on what exactly this is/was and how it works?

Not shown here is the fact that My ports for the computer link are not in the console yet, as well as the ECM cooling fan still needs to be mounted. More pics to come as progress dictates.[/quote]

Thanks for supporting my job. If you like your computer, I'm glad. If not, blame me, everyone else does. Ha!

Console is wild. Keep the pics coming and good luck with everything.

-Mike

You're the mythical "Mike from Dallas" everyone talks about from Dell Support.

For shame. My Studio 1536 has been a heap (I still kind of like it, though lol)

Stingroo wrote:

Quote :

Additionally I'll be turning 'Highway Mode' back on. GM used it on OBD1 cars to raise the commanded AFR to improve gas mileage. It's something the GM was forced by the government to turn off, as they thought it was cheating the C.A.F.E. numbers. But all the hard code is still in there. I just need to drop the engagement speed from the stupid 200 mph to something reasonable again like 50mph.

Interesting. Any more details on what exactly this is/was and how it works?

First off, keep in mind that Since I'm on the equivalent of a 1992 Corvette Tuned Port Injection system, that I no longer use the same ECM that GM installed for your TBI engines. I'm using a "7730 ECM with an $8d mask and a highly modified bin (which is for BIG FREAKING motors and automatic transmissions.)

Frankly, I never bothered to find out what mask a 1991-1993 TBI uses, but reported is that the hard code was in there on most 88-92 TBI'd motors. I'd believe that given that they have a similar mask, and they are also speed density units. It's also likely that GM turned it off in later years, like in my 1992 Corvette BIN after they got caught with emissions issues.

When you open up the mask, programmed in there is a section listed under "optional modes" and HIGHWAY shows up. It is box where you can change your commanded AFR settings. What is does is ignores the normal "desire" to have your engine AFR at 14.7 (Stoich) and allows it to lean out by raising the AFR number to preselected values.

It works off of two primary items vehicle speed and work load on the engine. You set a speed where you want it to kick in. The vehicle has to maintain that speed (not under acceleration) for about eight seconds (also programmable). At that point it looks at how severly loaded the engine is. With less load you can get a leaner AFR, like 15-16.2. Generally we are taking 50-70% load. Past that % and the likelihood is that you have stomped on the gas, and the engine is under Acceleration Enrichment (AE), and Highway mode is ignored, until you meet the proper criteria again.

I spend a lot of time over at www.thirdgen.org to learn about programming. You can likely find out more on TBI programming there.

Of specific interest, look at the following threads on the topic. There are others.


http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tbi/264120-highway-mode.html

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/diy-prom/408964-highway-mode.html

I'm already confused. lol

I'd love to learn about it, but I fear that's another one of those things I won't be able to understand.

I'm glad to hear that you're up and about. Here's hoping for a complete recovery.

Thanks all. Too much fun!

-Mike

I threatened to post more pictures. Here they are.


In the beginning there was great void in the heavens. And a voice was heard from on high.

She said "Why are you ripping the **** out of the interior of the car again!" How much more money are you going to throw into that suck hole?

The void, sometimes also known as the black suckhole, or money pit.... you can see where the Corvette ECM now sits. Likely to get kind of toasty in there, just above the header pipes. That's why there will be a cooling fan for it.




The upper part as the heavens were formed.

'

Per Joel's (sherlock 9C1)suggestion after last years WF10, the colors of thwe console were changes to unify the interior better. It now natches the dash much better



The lower console fitting progresses.



Upper unit takes shape.



Upper section in final mockup form, not fully wired yet.



Curious local cat questions my sanity.



Business end of lower console.



front side of same.



New programming ports



center section with new cloth to match seats.



local bully from Impala SS forum stops by the harass me.



Slapped together for fun.



Per Joel's suggestion after last years WF10, the colors f the console were changed to better unify the interior to grey , black and allen head screws.

Dam that looks confusing to me. Glad you know what your doing.

Oh yeah and why did u want to know which way I was going to b traveling to Michigan?

Here's a few pics along the way as my work on the overhead console  progresses.


Adding bondo to cover the gaps. It was not a perfect fit in terms of contour match of the roof line. Soi I simply taped the sides up and slung a thick wad of fiberglass embedded bondo on it (tiger hair) It was easy to shape to my needs afterward. It doesn't need to be a paint quality finish... doesn't even need primer if you are going to recover it.




added matching upholstery fabric.



adding purple LED"S for "cool" lights



rat's nest of wires afterward.



I've found using Radio Shack modular "Power Connectors" to be useful in most all my wiring projects they come in 2, 4, 6, 9, and 12 wire configurations. I used them for my digital dash project as well.



I added a press on/off button as well to turn on the Purple LED's




Still need to cut open the headliner and run wires but...
Almost time to install!



Hopefully, it gets finished up this weekend.

iwas liking it right up ntill the press on/off button,.
Nice unobtrusive cheap little switch,.can only handle low current led stuff,.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/12V-ROUND-ROCKER-SWITCH-W-RED-LED-TOGGLE-SW-SPST-/320349996315?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4a9659051b
Nicer
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Activator-LCD-Touch-Switch-Purple-PlasmaGlow-Lighting-/230585533100?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35aff802ac
A central control pad with multiple touch switches would be even nicer,that lights up with the key on,..not labeled so only the operator knows whats what, .

Nick

Thanks for the idea Nick. I like the first one better you linked to as being unobtrusive.

Frankly I didn't like the red button I have either but couldn't find better.


Anyone seen that first button at an auto parts store. I've got Advance, Autozone, Napa and Pepboys in the area. would like to hook up with the part quickly.

Dave

(Thanks Nick)

the Radio Shack in town has them. Should be in the same section as those connectors you use. Their website has them too.

Heres one:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062523

They also have one with a red LED instead of a white dot
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062534

Thanks boys!

I'm past the point of no return. (no deposit either)

I started cutting up the front of the headliner to make a hole for mounting and wiring.

Being as the headliner material is 18 years old, all it took was a sharp new blade ina utility knife. Needed about a 3x4 inch hole.

Back seems even easier, as where the stock dome light is locataed is a good enough cross brass to mount the unit. Can't use the original mounting holes in the console that are already there, by two holes in a new spot to catch the lateral "B"'brace won't be bad.

How far down is it going to hang with the tweed covered surround installed?Really would like
to hear that engine of yours being abused a little and with the cost of gas just a little will be
fine by me.Do you have the Vin numbers of the other 2 shammoo's?I remember there use
to be a business in Hemmings that use to do searches for rare old cars.Dont know what it
cost to do but its been a while since I saw their ad.
Jim Gordon

Vins...
Interesting question. Never thought to ask. I'll try to get ahold of the boys at Kicker to find out. can't say that they'd be sequential , but "musta & shoodda" been darn close to it.

It hangs down about two inches. Since I have bucket seats, not benches, it does not interfere with head clearance.

(it's 6:15 in the morning.. the Dog wanted out. I'm going to take the luxury if sleeping in till 7:00am)

The overhead dash is physically in. The courtesy light is functional. (first time I've ever had one working! The head unit wiring is down the "A" pillar as well, but I'm also adding a two gauge pillar cluster while I'm at it for future wideband O2 AFR and vacuum gauges.





Also below is how I plan on monitoring and cooling the ECM

You'll note the ECM has at temperature sensor mounted that projects into the cavity of the ECM. the reading will show up on the overhead console that just went into place.

The metal piece that you see on the right side is to show where the fan sensor will be mounted. It's held in place by half of a small turnbuckle. It works that I can use a thumbscrew from the top to hold the fan sensor in place.



So if you've wondered what I'm taking about when you see the word Prominator, it's shown inside the ECM below. It is a chip replacement board that gets piggybacked (no sheep) onto the ECM board.
It's how I reprogram things from the laptop.

Looking good so far. I love my overhead console. Best mod so far.

I like the overhead console a lot. Looks just like the one in our past Suburbans. Nice mod.

Looks sweet. You could leave the jolly red candy like button and label it History eraser button, if you are a Ren and Stimpy fan, or just label it eject so your passengers can worry.

It matches the red licorice button on the lower console that activates the rear window latch and trundles the ZX-9 plutonium earth demodulator into firing position.






DON"T EVER PISS ME OFF AT A STOP LIGHT OR YOU ARE TOAST!

Sprocket wrote:

Looks sweet. You could leave the jolly red candy like button and label it History eraser button, if you are a Ren and Stimpy fan, or just label it eject so your passengers can worry.

Just keep that stupid cat away from the button.

This time... not such a good update. I was working on getting my water temp gauge to work. It always read a cool 38*, and the oil pressure gauge has been acting wired by blinking on and off, going to zero. Yes there is plenty of oil.

The short story is that now Shammoo won't fire up again.

When I was fixing the coolant temp sensor, and opened the hood, there was little chunks of mud all over the engine. I have no idea how it got there, can't remember any puddles.

So I hosed of the engine. I started the engine later and noticed the coolant temp gauge now works. I had to change to a compatible sensor for the dash to read it. The engine sounded rough though Like it was missing a cylinder so I shut it off.

When I went to restart it about ten minutes later to see if the oil gauge was funtioning. NO START. Just kept cranking. Usually it starts right up. Oil gauge said ZERO. Don't think I can trust that to be accurate at this point.

Since the Ignition module is now remotely mounted I'll try swapping it out to another one.

If I recall correctly though, there is a oil pressure sensor at a fiiting down by the oil pump, drivers side. I beleive if there is a disruption of signal it tells the ECM not to start the engine TO PROTECT IT..

No pressure, No start.


THIS DRIVES ME NUTS!

As Mike would say - all part of the fun.

Hopefully it's something simple like that sensor or something.

P.S. Still haven't seen/heard any videos of the beast. This must be fixed!

Thanks Stringroo.

BY THE WAY... WHAT THEY HELL IS A STINGROO ANYWAY?

... cross between a kangaroo and a sting ray?

Back to topic. SO i turned it over and it actually started. But very rough again.
Got out the trusty ol' Lazer temperature gun and shot the header pipes about 2" from the block flange. Cyls 5&7 were running abut 200* colder than wire 1&3. Kind of closed the hood gently over my head to darken under there and could see pretty blue sparks jumping from those wires to the headers. Wires seem to last about six months, even with asbestos boots on them. Maybe I need a little header wrap thrown on there as well.

Tested the oil gauge on the digital dash to check its function. It responds to grounding by going high. So I know that is functioning OK. Need to check the wire to the sensor at the back of the motor. (pain in the butt to get to)

Sounds like you might have a critter problem and its tracking mud up into your engine compartment.Whenever things start to suddenly work or operate eradically and there is
mud/dirt,its a critter.Still would love to hear your engine running and going down the road maybe.
Take Care and thank a Vet
Jim Gordon

Critters... never even gave it a thought! That makes sense, it rained like hell, and we have lots of stray cats in the area due to the neighborhood "cat lady",.

Well, I got to Advance auto, and picked up a few new Accel 8mm universal spark plug wires.
I added a new twist though, I saw some foil wrapped convoluted tubing inside the Asbestos spark plug boots for added high temp protection.

It started roght up, and the opil pressure gauge is also working. Might have had stray juice from the bad wires affecting the sensor or the wire.
So now for the first time ALL my gauges work. ( must be time to rewire something)


Also put the switch that Nick recommended into the overhead unit. I must say it looks so much better than the big red button.

Thanks for the idea Nick!

Stingroo... On videos of Shammoo, mMy son wants me to buy a video camera. He's going to be running in Micro-Sprints and wants them taped. I also want film of when we do laps of Watkins Glen.
( Pics coming shortly)

Hey Dave I have one of those $55 sensors for the oil pressure gauge to install.Right now my
OP gauge stays pegged except when idling hot with the A/C on.Then the gauge will drop off
the peg to just below the midway spot on the gauge.Sensor #10222130 and I hope its the
right part number.If not I have a bunch of seding units for my OCC I bought last year on
closeout from Rock Auto.Started buying switches for my 95 RMW when Rock Auto puts them
on close out.Hard to beat these prices anywhere when they start going for 8 to 12 bucks each.
Jim Gordon

My gauge is part of the Nordskog digital cluster that I put in last year. It came with a new sender for both oil and water. I didn't original swap out to the new water temp sensor, and that was the problem With the temp gauge.

Oil gauge issue seemed to be related to the bad plug wires as the sender wire runs right by them.


200OZ (Mike) just pulled out a dual fan setup from his parts cars for me. That will go in soon. It will help get rid of the mechanical fan and create a better path for cooler into the TPI intake.

I have the electric fans and shroud and hardware that I want to install in my OCC just need to
get my butt in gear and do it!
Jim Gordon

Flash, I'm assuming you are putting it into a 91-93 unit? We should compare notes.

Last year I ran the Trigger wires from the ECM out into the engine bay. Mike may have also pulled several others bits and pieces for me to make it easier, Radiator, shroud, fans, wiring harnesses, Relay box etc.

Hoping for a clean installation. Don't really want a lot of down time on it.

Just got off the phone to order a wideband AFR kit and a Vacuum gauge. Both will go into the "A" pillar pod that I got last year at WF10 of one of my fellow forum members. Can't recall who. (CRS)

They are also Red digital displays to match up with the rest of the system that's in place.So it should look nice.

Only odd piece is the overhead temp/compass which is in blue (aqua?)

here's a few extra photos of John's (Bewber) shirts. and stickers that I've acquired recently

Dave were you mad at someone or do you always look that way?
Jim Gordon

His sheep got out.

OK that explains the look of "oh crap I bet they ran off with the neighbors sheep again"
Jim Gordon

It was 92 degrees and I'd been wiring inside the car for two hours.
At sixty years old, at least all my hair is still there.... well at least on my head.

The good new is the Deathstar ... overhead console is fully operational.

Tomorrow the lower section on the center console gets mounted. It's been bench tested, just needs to line lined up and hooked up.

Last will be upper section on the center console with the video screen, CD/DVD player and light controls.

I need to lengthen some of the speaker leads first as there are too short to ease hook up.

I ordered and received a two new gauges. A wide band O2 sensor and a vacuum gauge kit from Glowshift. They are Red digital units that will match my other dash displays.

I got my water temp unit finally displaying correctly. Different sensor in place now ( the one that came with the kit DOH!!) and it's fine.

Lower half of the floor console is in place and functioning as well. Although I need to re-pin one spot on the ECM to accept the wide band signal. Not a big deal to change.

My push is to have all the dash and console wiring done by the weeks end. I've been on vacation all week, so that has helped give me the opportunity to giterdun!

Pics to come.

I'm always impressed with your mods. You have far more patience than I would!