Roo Wagon uh... 3.1? Like Windows, but, black!

Bump?


Did some front end work...

So there's this special socket for the rounded nuts on the top of our shocks, right? Why does nobody sell this damn thing? Advance, Napa, Autozone... nobody knew what I was talking about, even when I gave them part numbers. Harbor Freight didn't have it in their Super Chinaman Specialty tool aisle.... Had to order on Amazon.

Yesterday was very frustrating front-end rebuild day. In the rain. All afternoon.... and welllllllllllllllll into the night. After mistakes from both Rock Auto and the local parts store, I feel like writing a strongly worded letter to Moog because they suck at packaging parts.

Also, it really sucks when you learn your air compressor died, so you have to drill through upper ball joints by hand. Boo.

Only lower ball joints, springs, and brake pads to go.

Also hitch removal.

Half done.

They make electric drills for those who can not pass gas. There is also another special tool for the top of the shock...Vicegrips. The hard part to get to is the nut on the top of the shock. Removing the springs is easiest if you lower the entire control arm on a jack. Place the jack under the spring perch, and unbolt the lower arm. Go slowly, and you may have to pry the arm out of the mounts. The lowering springs will go in a lot easier than the OEM ones come out. In fact, I put my lowering springs in with the arm in place, and did not have to compress them at all. Do not forget to cut the top off of the lower stop, so you have sufficient suspension travel.

Yeah, I got new bump stops. It's okay, ended up getting a different set of springs after seeing some other photos anyway. Figured I'd order the socket because it was $4 and seems a lot less ghetto than vise grips.

Stingroo wrote:

Yeah, I got new bump stops. It's okay, ended up getting a different set of springs after seeing some other photos anyway. Figured I'd order the socket because it was $4 and seems a lot less ghetto than vise grips.

Ray,never ever knock that great tool that is the "Vise Grips"because they have saved many a project from going down the toilet when something broke! 

Many a vise grips has actually gone down the toilet.

It takes another virtually useless tool from Harbor Freight (China) to get them back out.

Vice grips are such an important tool, that I own 4 pairs of the large and a bunch of various versions... needle nose, "C" clamp, small, large, etc.....

They are such a useful tool that I have them in every toolbox in every vehicle.

Why pack a socket set and a bunch of wrenches when a good Vice Grip and adjustable wrench will do.

There are times and places that the vicegrips, and adjustable wrenchs will not do the job, and you need a real correct size wrench/socket.

Fred Kiehl wrote:

There are times and places that the vicegrips, and adjustable wrenchs will not do the job, and you need a real correct size wrench/socket.

Agreed.... but there is no denying the value of a good vice grip...

True, and I have several, but I'm glad I waited.


I ordered different springs.

Today, went to a hot rod show with Sprocket and Tim (Gastt).

Preview:

this looks similar,..

More photos...

I went with the little heartbeat on the doors/gate for two reasons. First, the obvious, when the wagon was new, Chevy was "the Heartbeat of America." Also, though, it's a little subtle nod to my dad. We worked on the car together all the time, and it's been almost six months since we lost him, so I thought it would be cool to kind of include him in some way. Anyway, I dig it.

Phase two: drop it to the ground. Soon.

Snazzy. I hope to find someone up here who can do that to one of my cars soon!

Bitchin!

Awesome! I want pinstriping on the caddy (once I get all the body panels replaced)

Ray, cool as hell! Excellent job, nice nod to your dad. What did it cost you? Now, just remember not to follow the guy in front of you too closely....

It was reasonable. I got the friendly discount though, cause he did the kangaroo that was on my tailgate before paint.

Looking great! I know you have worked your tail off on that car. Proud of you for sticking with it!

Yep... it's going nowhere.

As much time and money that you have in that car, you can not afford to sell it for about 10 years. I have the same situation for both of my cars. I would have to sell them for 10K each to get my money and time back.

Eh, I don't plan to sell it anyway

Sharp really sharp I like it.

darn pics won't load at work. Oh wait I know what it looks like, lol Making great progress on it!

It would have been easier to just give up on this wagon and buy another,thanks for sticking with it Ray.

Give up? Bah.

Nonsense, I say!


So.... it got some more low!

Front spring comparison:


Rear comparison:


Did the rears first... was impressed:


And then, after much fighting, cursing, nonsense, and stupid spring compressors.... Tim and I finished!

I dunno man, it's looking all respectable now, you sure you can still drive it?

SHARP!!!!

Looks good kid,when are you going to replace that broken wheel stud and whats hanging off the rear end?How's the ride now?

Flasheroo wrote:

Looks good kid,when are you going to replace that broken wheel stud and whats hanging off the rear end?How's the ride now?

No broken studs. The key to my wheel locks stripped out, so I had to remove them. Bought new ones, it's all good. Hanging off the rear is the carriage bolt feeder thing (technical term, okay?) for the hitch, but that's also gone now. I wanted to drive it, okay?!


It rides great! It'll be nicer once I get the car aligned this Friday. Had to book an appointment - imagine that!

Did you have trouble finding a shop that can align the wagon?

Looks good! Now lower the front, too!

(PS: Ordered my 5662's and CC501's for the Caddy already )

Olds Weighty Eight wrote:

Did you have trouble finding a shop that can align the wagon?

I got a lead from the guys at work, where we send all our crazy lowered stuff that comes in. So... I lucked out.

The formula for adjusting the camber is -0.030 per half inch of drop. Remove 0.030 for every half inch. Measure the drop at the axle centerline to the fender opening. The toe should not need adjusting. Use new nuts for the upper mounts, because they are only good for 2 tightenings. You can get a magnetic camber gauge on ebay. I picked up a used one last year for $66. I can check my camber in about 15 minutes.

Well, I have to adjust everything. I replaced the whole front end.


So I'm taking it to the alignment shop.

That nice ! I don't know if I can go that low but I sure want to lol .

It's honestly not even that low. It's perfectly drivable on the street as is. My exhaust scrapes a little bit when I go over huge speed tables, but it's also bigger custom pipe.

I... might end up taking the fronts out and cutting half a coil, depending on how much they settle in the coming weeks.

Looks good!

Ray just drive it for a few hundred miles and let those coils settle before you cut anymore off.I know you havent driven it that much since you lowered it but I am really curious about the ride quality.

It feels pretty comfortable here. I don't plan on re-evaluating the stance for awhile. I'll give it a month or two. Maybe around Christmas I'll think about it more. I like it how it is, but I wish it would tuck just a liiiiiiiiiiiiittle bit of tire in the front.

While it isn't slammed to the ground, it is certainly lower and a bit more stiff.

It rides good with the Monroe SS shocks in it. We were able to sneak in the new springs without a compressor. Let me know if it doesn't settle enough Ray, we'll rip them out again and cut.

How tall are your front tires?

235/55 17. So um... 27.2" according to Miata.net.

Looks really nice.

Wow Ray your wagon is really coming along. How much lower front and rear is it from before? What are your plans for it next? And how many miles are on it? I certainly hope to see it again next year at wagonfest (without your last minute body and paint work, of course!)

It's got about 135k on it now. Current cluster reads like 117k though.

It's about 3.5 inches lower in the rear, and I'm not sure on the front. I'll have to go measure them again.

Today, I put the sway bar back on, and new plugs and wires.

Drives so nice. NO loss in ride quality from lowering, really.

Front, before:



Front, now:





I want the front to settle more. I'll give it a few more weeks before I consider cutting half a coil on 'em.

Looks great just the way it sits,leave it alone!

Nah. Not low enough.

You know where I stand...

Of course I do.

Hey, these front springs are short enough that I can remove/replace them without a compressor or removing the control arm.

It won't be a big deal to pull them again.

Make sure you are not so low that your suspension travel is on the bump stop at all times. It looks like it is about as low as you can go without bottoming the suspension every time you go over a pebble. Measure the frame to bump stop before you cut anything off of the spring. If you want to go lower, get a set of 1 inch drop spindles.